38rcdodge

Thanks for that info. 👍 Yup it does seem uncommon, particularly in the US, which makes it intriguing. as to it possibly being bent or modified, it seems to be about 150mm across , and does seem pretty much round. but I'm guessing the 100 may mean a thread diameter, rather than overall?.

Sharp observation, thanks. I'll verify it when I can.

Very nice, thanks DavidMc.👍 yes it does look about the same. definitely on the right track.

I got this recently and have been trying to identify what vehicle(s) its for. I have been able to determine its for removing the hubs on Rudge Whitworth wire wheels?. but I've only found reference to ones marked 62 and 120. thanks, Bill

Yup, I thought since you only showed one pin in the pic it might be that way. the pins should be tight. in my case the joint with the loose pin was completely disintegrated. apparently the loose pin let the shaft slam back and fourth hard enough that one of the balls actually broke. then all the needle bearings came out... it wasn't pretty.

Looking good. are the pins in your driveshaft tight? one of mine was loose, I tried electroplating the pin to tighten it, but it didn't last. I realized based on the part number and what I think is a date code it likely isn't the original, and from a '40. so just got one from a '37 with tight pins and the right part number at least. I cleaned it up installed it a few months ago. and so far so good.

Very nice progress, looking great!.

There is a small amount of info on the body numbers in the factory parts books. not much though. here's an example from '38.

Awesome well worth the painstaking restoration then. I still need to send away for the build card, definitely will eventually. I have T58-19191 so much later.I see yours was built in October '37 . I've found casting dates of march '38 so seems about right .

Yup looking carefully I see the holes. still you're lucky it came out in one piece. getting the drive train in will be a big milestone for sure. in my case I've actually not had the engine out or completely apart yet, it runs well enough, but will need rings at least eventually I think. do you also still have the original engine? I think I can make out T58-XXXX.

Its looking great I'm actually surprised how nice your old water distribution tube is. in my case what was left came out in about 3 pieces...

Sorry to hear that. they do show up on ebay occasionally. one thing I do know, '36's are different than 37-38, at least on top, the corners are sharper. so watch out for that. I ended up welding mine up, but it was not easy. what you have looks far better than what I had to work with though.

Yeah I think you're right. theirs does look the most like the original, now that I found it and look at the cross section. I know what you mean about having to drill the screws out. if the screws are all that were rusty you are lucky . I had to do much welding and fabricating, on the top half in particular.

Nothing stupid about it, I just got done rebuilding the frame, so am very familiar with it. although I am still not sure what the right seal is... they do all seem to be a little different. I'm starting to think DCM Classics is closest now.

It would be interesting to hear feedback about both kinds, as far as fit, and how is seals.

The cross section Surf City posted actually looks closer, in most ways. where it goes in the groove looks a little different, but if it fits shouldn't matter.

Ok, I found what I think is the original gasket, here's a cross section of it. its actually a little different than both options, but I think either will work. it goes in the grove in the windshield frame, I don't think adhesive is needed, but am not sure.

The 2897A-WS from Restoration Specialties looks the closest to what I remember the remains of the original(?) '38 gasket looking like. I still have some of it somewhere, I'll try to find it and confirm. I still need to get a gasket, too. the one from DCM classics is listed for '39- '47, and looks different. someone on Ebay, "mopar- direct" sells what they claim is the correct kind, their cross section looks the same as Restoration Specialties . Restoration Specialties does seem to have the best price, so probably what i'll go with.

Ahh that's lucky, finding a donor. i had to piece the left front fender back together, using parts from a '36 car. I won't admit how much time I spent . and I confess its still not perfect. and I've had the obsession since about 1991, so good luck with curing it. I never will be.

Wow Vic . going from that to the flawless machine you have now means it really must be an obsession.:) amazing. did you save the rear fenders, or find replacements?

Actually I realize the earlier trucks with rubber covered running boards don't have fender welting around the running boards ,its not necessary. so may not have it there either. so sorry for any confusion. I'm interested if Vic knows as well.

Thanks, yeah the spare '36 headlight has a clip like that, but on the '38 there is only a screw, so it is a mystery how it was originally. for now I made a simple bracket internally mounted to the reflector with a hole that the screw fits into which I made pointed on the end , so when tightened it locks the lens in place. probably not "correct" but will work for now I think. :)

Looking good ... except for the cracked oil pump. odd it would crack there., it looks like its supported on each side, and shouldn't Even have much stress in that area.

Yup they do have torque I have seen them described as synchroed as well in some books, but I have learned there are many unique things about these trucks, the transmission being one of them. and who needs power steering ? at east they have air conditioning... sort of.

It looks fantastic! good job. at least on the '38 I'm owned by, there are no synchros on 2nd and 3rd, and never were, according to the shop manual. but is constant mesh, with " "dog teeth" just no synchros... i think double- clutching is a necessity, but I don't have much driving experience with it yet... only once 14 years ago. I hope to gain more soon.