Jump to content

38rcdodge

Members
  • Posts

    103
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 38rcdodge

  1. Yeah that's probably who I heard about, good luck in your search . are you planning to have the originals restored, or reproductions made?.
  2. Cool thanks, I learned something too. the only dumb questions are those that are not asked...
  3. Looking greatπŸ‘ the lines do look a lot cleaner that way. Afraid not, I just straightened mine myself the best I could. but I'm doing more a "sympathetic" restoration. definitely not show quality. I think I read somebody makes replacement skins too. forgot who who though.
  4. I did locate my original brake line from the master cylinder, the loop is put in so its below the level of the inlet/outlet to prevent air entrapment. it looks professionally made, so I'd bet its from the factory. it would be interesting to see other original '38s and see how many have loops and how many not, vs production date. its hard to know for sure...
  5. Interesting its stamped CALI I wonder if there were special steering boxes for California?. I'll check mine, and compare numbers, when I can. just going on memory it looks the same as yours... except yours are cleaner.πŸ˜‚
  6. Yup, I think the original was more horizontal. that one was done almost 25 years ago, I'll probably re do it at some point.πŸ˜‰
  7. Ahh makes sense. I noticed the adapter on it. I do think the way it is will allow some flexing. my solid lines were actually done almost 25 years ago, so I don't remember every detail..
  8. There were a surprising amount of changes during the production year. mine must be one of the last made, with a bellhousing casting date of 3-28-38. one thing I notice, your distribution block is mounted more away from the frame, on a bracket. maybe it was a way of letting the whole thing flex a little, so the loop isn't needed? I don't remember how mine is mounted, but think its more solid to the frame. I'll check later.
  9. Logical thinking. I have not seen another truck in person in detail that isn't rodded, so don't know for a fact what is correct. mine was parked since 1971, and never restored, so I believe it had the loop originally. yours is also very original, I wonder if the loop was added late in production?
  10. The master cyl / junction is on the same side, and the line is around 2 feet long. with the engine /bellhousing /master cylinder mounted on rubber, it and the fuel line is the only solid metal connections. so all torque and front to back movement of the engine will be transferred through it. I do agree my circle is bigger than the original and should be flatter, so it can't trap air, but it seems dangerous to put that much stress on a straight pipe,? I think it could fatigue and break..
  11. Thanks much for this Spinnyhill, its just what I was looking for. it seems 919 is the right one after all
  12. Good point. πŸ˜‚ the original was flatter, probably. I still have it, I'll find and post a photo. it had a much tighter circle. I think its important though, since the master cyl is mounted to the bell housing and moves with the engine, whereas the brake line distribution block is mounted to the frame. it could flex quite a bit...
  13. One thing though, on mine there is a circle in the line from the master cyl, so its flexible. (the original was done a lot neater than I was able to) I can't tell if you put one in further back.?
  14. Thanks much Alan , πŸ‘ that seems right. I found a list of the models from Borg & Beck for 1939, a 919 has the arms at 2-3/8. the 928 at 2-5/32. which explains why I always had too much free play in the clutch I think. I made a shim that goes under the throw-out bearing to bring it within spec. works for now but will keep an eye out for a 928.
  15. πŸ‘Maybe not fun but important.πŸ˜‚ on mine the pre-made lines from the local auto parts store were used , with two shorter ones joined to make the long ones. while it works and avoided having to do the flares, not as neat as custom made. so I was wondering, since you just did your clutch recently , do you know the correct Borg & Beck model number of the pressure plate?. mine is 919, which I'm thinking may be wrong, the arms don't seem to come out far enough. it works, but barely. thanks, Bill.
  16. Cool, thanks.πŸ‘ yeah I don't have one, just a rod bent with washers and a cotter pin. maybe its why the throttle is stiffer than I would expect.πŸ˜‚ no problem with the fuzziness. my Samsung gets just as confused...
  17. Yup they must be hard to find, I don't recognize it, so must be missing on mine... where does it go? my first guess is part of the throttle linkage.?
  18. Thanks for making that clear. it makes sense looking at it. what I assumed is it was some sort of thing where the two are tightened against each other in some way . the only thing similar I have experience with Was an MG that was in the family as a kid. it had spoke wheels held on with a large nut. I remember it quite well because one came off on the freeway once. not something one forgets.😁
  19. Very good information, thanks Greg. yes I see in the photo above David posted how the ring is separate from the wheel nut. on the second picture I posted above with it held against something round, does the pin area still look bent? it looks to me it could be slightly, yet it seems to fit the circle perfectly. yeah I saw some other similar ones for sale for about that price. makes sense with them being rather uncommon. this one came close to ending up in the dump or scrapped, no one knew what it was..I didn't either but thought it looked interesting.
  20. Maybe, it is a perfect half circle pretty much though, so I think the first photo may just make it look bent?. I probably didn't hold the camera straight. I found a round item about the same size, and posted a photo of it along side. as to being resized, it measures around 150mm across, but am not sure what a 100 wrench/spanner is supposed to measure.
  21. Yup while it makes total sense calling a convertible top a hood, its much like the hood on a jacket, to me a hood is an engine cover 😊 at least on front engine vehicles.
  22. Yeah, and I called it a wrench to begin with, which may not be correct. actually I've heard people call wrenches spanners here occasionally, but not often.
  23. Yes, I just found posts where they are referred to as C- spanners. makes sense.. I got it in a box of old wrenches though.😁
  24. Definite possibilities, thanks Greg and Craig. all very nice cars..
×
×
  • Create New...