38rcdodge

Sounds familiar I had /have most of these too. the only one I haven't resolved is the fuel gauge. Have you verified if its the gauge or the sending unit? it could be as simple as a bad ground. actually the sending unit is the issue in my case, the modern ( crap) gas with all the alcohol is both dissolving the shellac on the cork float causing it to sink , and attacking the insulating materials on the electrical side as well. So I'm just using a long thin stick as a gauge. very reliable . 20 years ago the float was still perfect and the gauge worked fine, so I know its the new gas. I'm thinking of trying to seal the float with some sort of gas tank sealer at some point. The temp gauge was the most difficult to fix. on mine the bulb was broken off. I managed to refill it with ether and solder it back on. it took all day, but after 15 years its still working.

Yup. I'll admit mine isn't that quiet, but I've not rebuilt it fully yet. still running well though.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who's experienced the wobble of death not fun. there are actually 3 or 4 adjustments that need to be made. the worm adjustment screw, the eccentric adjusting sleeve, maybe a shim removal, and possibly the eccentric rivet to centralize tooth contact. I managed to adjust mine without removing it. and no more death wobble so far.

Nice! it sounds very smooth.

Yes my '38 has dual wipers, and has the tee fitting. when I get around to getting the build card it will verify if its factory. I've always assumed so.

It looks like either a '36 truck with a '37-38 cab, (36's have a less rounded windshield on top, different dash). or a '37 truck with a "36 grill and transmission?.

Yup my thinking as well. another mystery. and I can't think of a reason anyone restoring one would drill the holes out that big. unless they drilled the rivets out, and made the hole bigger in the process. I know I didn't, since I still have some of the rivets. Yeah the head diameter looks to be about 5/16'' maybe a hair less.

Yes it looks that way, a possibility . But I know for sure all the holes in my '38 shell are bigger, both for the lacing and mounting screws. While I took the old rivets out over 20 years ago, and don't remember details I know of no reason to have drilled the holes out. and the way the split part of the rivets are still so far apart indicates they came out of a fairly big hole. I wonder if it could have been an occasional mistake at the factory, punching them all the same size? Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of them installed.

Yeah they were split rivets, at least on 37-38's . here's a picture of my 3 remaining originals, which measure about 1/8'' where they go through the shell. and one still in a "37 shell. interestingly the lacing holes in my 38 shell are also around 1/4'', and have never been drilled out to my knowledge. yet the holes in the '37 shell are around 1/8''.

The light at the end of the tunnel is getting very bright😊. great work👍.

Looking awesome...

Looking great. 👍 you could almost drive it.

Very nice. ☺️ close enough I would say. interesting it was used on '37 MC and '38 RE but not RC I wonder what the reason was to change it on RC's. The new door stop mount looks great.👍 yeah it must have been fun welding in there...

Not a perfect date match, but could be worse.☺️ mine is missing the tag, so I don't even know what its for.😂 I'm curious though, are you sure Delco Remy is correct? I've always thought its supposed to be Autolite. but could be mistaken.

Cool, wiring is always fun☺️. not so with the door stop mount breaking☹️ Hopefully not a difficult fabrication.

Very good, thanks.👍 and August '37 seems just about right for a very early '38. So is likely original to your truck. I can make out most of it. Not much sun a little further north either.

Yeah its my guess, not sure how to confirm it though unless others have the same code and it corresponds to the production date at least roughly. Why I'm interested what Alan's says. and it would be interesting to know if 592840 is the correct part number for a 1940 or '41. then K0 would likely mean November 1940.

Here's a some photos of the numbers on mine . first the '37 with the correct 579386 part number and F7 (date code?). and the one I think is 1940 with the part number 592840 and K0 (date code?):

Mine measures 38-13/16'' long on the external visible part if that helps:

Cool, that's the right way. after getting a MIG welder I realized I really want a TIG welder 😂 . no hurry on the numbers.😊 they are stamped on one end, right by one of the weld beads.

Sounds good👍 great there was no other damage. did you weld it up, or use some other technique?. also did you find the numbers stamped on it? I'd be curious if yours has a letter /number date code. on the damaged shaft that came in mine it has the(incorrect) part number, other unidentified numbers, and k0. (Nonember 1940?) the replacement from a '37 is stamped F7 {June1937?) . if my guess is right yours would probably have a code ending in 7 also, given the very early production.

Looks very good. what was done to tighten the pin up again ?

Nice. it looks good. I read somewhere what colors were standard options, I think a grey was one of them, but not positive. of course someone could have ordered a custom color. mine was the Milori green I believe. I mixed my own, just using remaining original paint as a guide. got it somewhat close, but not perfect.

Yes very cool and helpful info.👍 thanks. I look forward to sending away for the build card for mine. and learning what is factory. 😊 looks like " Ol' Betsy" is coming along nicely. is the grey her original color?

Good.👍 my way of thinking as well.