38rcdodge

So it turns out the bulb holder was spliced onto the original wire, but still fabric so must have been done long ago. I think its safe to say they never came with an indicator on the dash from the factory... I wonder if they ran out of the Dodge emblems late in production? or maybe cost cutting.

Nice. 👍 that's interesting. so there were at least 3 different door window crank handles. and the changes didn't all happen at once. that confirms the red knob indicator is correct. I wonder now if the indicator light was added to the dash by a previous owner in mine, but the wire and bulb holder is part of the original wiring harness. or at least I think so. I replaced the wiring over 20 years ago, but still have it. will need to dig it out and check.

Nicely done. I'm still thinking the splash aprons are metal. note how there appears to be a rather sharp bend right under the fasteners behind the cab.the mounting is likely vertical, and the apron is likely angled out. I don't think it would be that way with fabric.

Yeah its hard to say if the blue lettering is original/correct . the restorer could have done a little customizing there. the grooves look the same as the gauges, but the lettering looks darker and not metallic? It could just be the lighting. But I think there was some flexibility in painting from the factory. everyone says the engines were always silver for instance, yet mine definitely had the engine block/bell housing a dark green. in fact this ad shows the engine being darker. I did find silver on the head and thermostat housing.

I was thinking the same thing, that some stress caused it or even an accident at some point. and it is likely metal. the front and rear section looks too smooth and flat to be fabric. But yes a fine truck and pictures either way.

Looking at it what makes me think it could be fabric are those wrinkles in it.(or is that also a reflection?) it looks really wavy. otherwise it does look too reflective. and the pin striping could either be that or some kind of edge around fabric. a hard one to solve.

Yeah I same here. On the other hand if I was a millionaire maybe. there was this one too, that sold. better but still way up there. it looks correct. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-DESOTO-1938-PLYMOUTH-DODGE-DESOTO-HEADLIGHT-KNOB-w-RED-JEWEL-/274254175034?hash=item3fdad29b3a%3Ag%3ADeYAAOSwzvhd9B65&nma=true&si=%2FamHSkf%2Blv9%2FHpBhyvsrXY07RPw%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 I'm actually wondering if the trucks even had the red indicator. maybe they put a car knob in the commercial sedan only. it would be interesting to see an NOS 580582 knob. another thing I've never seen is the chrome trim around the knob holder, or grouping plate I think they call it. I don't see it in the parts book. assuming its original.

I checked and there is one NOS on Ebay, with the red jewel, but for cars. and not inexpensive. not sure if they are the same. the part number for trucks is 580582 according to my book. I don't think truck knobs have the crinkled look?. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-1938-Plymouth-Dodge-DeSoto-Chrysler-HEADLAMP-KNOB-With-Red-Jewel/143022234543?epid=2298345181&hash=item214cca1baf:g:D2UAAOSwhzhb9V2e

That would make sense, I have not seen one with red in it, But have not seen many. that knob is likely original going by the nickle being worn off. maybe keep an eye on Ebay. you might get lucky. If I see one I'll let you know. I did notice the Alberta licence plates, but then the Vin tag says Detroit. I think if the truck was Canadian it would be a Fargo? I'm betting it was imported.

Yeah they did a top notch job on it. but yes the turn signals are definitely not factory. the heater could have been dealer installed. but also likely not from the factory. Interesting about the headlight knob. I would have thought all that have the indicator in the knob would be red. on mine its on the dash, so clear is correct. Another thing they changed at some point. Mine also has the oval tag above the vin tag. I think it usually is that way on 37-38's. not having LR is strange.

The sedan likely means commercial sedan. similar to a panel truck.

As far as different parts during 38 production the internal and external door handles on the late '38's are different from early. They also have diamond plate running boards more like 39-47. Also the T-handle windshield crank like the later trucks. and they did away with the DODGE emblem on the dash, and put a high beam light there. those are the differences I'm aware of, there could be more.

Ahh That's nice having a lift. And you have an extra input shaft, for aligning the clutch when reinstalling. so you don't have to disassemble your trans in order to reinstall. like some people. That makes sense about the arms. . I just know they all have to be adjusted evenly. I only thought its a possibility because in the shop manual they show adjusting them with feeler gauges. Good luck on the fun. it will be interesting to see what you discover.

Sounds like fun. its not the most difficult job. I'll take a guess its the wrong pressure plate. I think you can see the number on it through the inspection hole in the bell housing, without removing it, but would need to take out the lower toe board. I wonder if it would be possible to adjust the pressure plate arms out a little further than specified to make up for wear. I'm tempted to experiment with it next time I have mine out. I do have a little bit of clutch chatter, so will need to at some point.

Yes I forgot about the clutch shaft bushing. that could also cause it. I also had a problem with wear in the bell housing where the clutch shaft rides on the right side. And had to make a bushing. I don't think it ever had one there. I remember you showed a pic of the wear on the throw out bearing sleeve in an earlier post, it didn't look to bad. mine has significantly more wear. According to this a 919 pressure plate is correct, and 905 920 or 948 will work.

I had this same problem with the clutch. I ended up making a spacer that goes under the throw out bearing, to make it come out a little further. I originally assumed somebody put the wrong pressure plate in, but it is correct. Hopefully you have the right pressure plate. It could be wear on the clutch release fork arms, and throw out bearing sleeve, where the two make contact.

Yup the puzzles and mysteries never seem to end. it just makes these trucks that much more interesting. mine had 15x5 wheels on it, definitely not original. I'm guessing mid or late 50's. they still had a hole for the guide pin though. I'm glad somebody didn't just grind the pins off so other wheels will fit. I'm sure it was common.

It wouldn't surprise me if they are original, and just not listed in the parts books. it would be interesting to see Plymouth car wheel options. If they have date codes that would also be a clue. but I am not aware if they did that, or where they are if so. And I have the guide pins too, so not just a Plymouth thing. This wheel is strange though, I've never seen one with the hubcap clips mounted like that. they are usually in line with the guide pin holes. so that one I'd suspect is for something else.

I've never had the axles or inner seal out, so don't have experience. in the manual I have (for a '37 should be the same) they show a special puller to get the axle/bearing out. there are probably multiple ways to get it out. if your bearing is still good maybe you wouldn't have to take it off the axle. it looks like the bearing and axle come out as one assembly, and the seal is behind it.

That's good thinking. the grease definitely wouldn't hurt anything. and helps prevent leaks. I know the old greyhound buses have the rear wheel bearings greased, I just saw a video on it not long ago. so there is reasons for it. maybe the grease has higher load capacity.

That nice tanker would come in handy to stock up on gas while its so cheap. at least for those not in California... Its my understanding that its the number 18 "oil washer" (seal?) that keeps the diff oil out of the bearing, and the bearings are greased? . I put grease in the plugs shown, and have not had any leaks. and rather than replacing the outer seals I soaked them it thin oil rolled the leather as shown. they softened up again.

Yes, if the smaller one's exist they must be very hard to find. I have seen the 3/4 ton caps, with the 8'' inside diameter. they won't fit on the 1/2 ton rims at all. the back is also shaped different:

Yes interesting. I wonder what 4.25'' wide rims are for? or maybe they widened the 4.00'' rim late in production. there is interesting hubcap info on 1937dodge dot blogspot dot com they claim truck hubcaps are an inch smaller diameter. if so I've never seen any. mine are all over 9'' outside diameter.

Nice. Interesting they are 4.25 wide. the two I have like that are only 4.00, likely off a 37-38 Plymouth (car). I always assumed they were the same as the trucks.

Well, its good news as far as not having to pull the tank back out. actually I remember on my gauge at least one of the wires in the gauge was broken also. if I remember correct it has two coils wound with very fine wire. if its just broken loose from the gauge terminal an easy fix. if the coils need to be rewound not so easy... Yes replacing the float with one of plastic is a consideration probably best in the long run. On the temp gauge, yes the soldering is what took all day. as soon as heat is applied the ether starts expanding, and blows a hole in the solder. I think what ended up working for me was freezing the bulb in water, with just the part needing to be soldered sticking out. I wonder what the factory procedure was?. My way to test it was to rig up a camp stove under the hood, and boil water, that way it both tests the accuracy, and any leaks in the solder job can be seen.