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MikeMike

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  1. Easy and rewarding job.

     

    Fit a later 12v dynamo or an alternator

    Fit a later12 regulator, not needed with an alternator.

    Fit a second 6v battery.

    It doesn't need to be a big battery.

     

    Connect 2nd battery earth to 1st battery live.

    Connect regulator output to 2nd battery.

    Connect old lighting circuit to 2nd battery live.

     

    Change bulbs.

     

    Use headlights as normal

     

    Used to take me a couple of hours from scratch.

    1st one took a bit longer of course.

     

    I found a good place the put the 2nd battery

    was between rad and grill.

     

    You end up with good 12 volt lights and 6 volt everything else.

    • Like 1
  2. Us calls 'em seesaws.

     

    The skinny kid sits at the end.

    The fat kid sits nearer the middle.

     

    Trailers and tugs are much like seesaws.

     

    If yer puts a heavy kid on the bar,

    yer takes weight off the front wheels.

     

    Mucks up your steering summat wrotten,

     

    Smart folks move the load backards and foreuds

    to get the nose weight right.

     

    A longer nose means you can

    overload your trailer front axle

    wi'out lifting so much weight

    orf of the front wheels on your tug.

     

    Not so much swings and roundabouts

    more the toy you had fun when you wuz a kid.

     

    Or, first order levers if want a bit o' simple science.

    http://www.dynamicscience.com.au/tester/solutions1/hydraulicus/simplemachineslevers1.htm

    ferd 01.jpg

  3. Would you be after knowing this trick?

     

    Clamp all hoses just enough to stop flow,

    then slack one clamp off just enough

    to act as a one way valve

    while you bleed it's downstream nipple?

     

    Repeat for other corners.

     

    Please remember to take all clamps off afterwards ?

  4. On 9/24/2018 at 2:46 AM, John Lynn said:

    Hi

    I have a 1920 Oakland 34C Cabriolet Roadster running a six cylinder engine.

    Would be interested in your comments on what is the best oil type / grade to put into the vehicle. I have had a lot of conflicting " advice ". Some some a heavy grade and other say lighter grade. 

    Thoughts please

     

    Lower viscosity = higher flow rate.

    Lower oil pressure = higher flow rate.

    Higher flow rate = better lubrication. 

     

    Better still, ask, say Castrol, what oil they recommend.

    Contactus@bp.com

     

     

  5. On 4/7/2009 at 3:35 AM, Tinindian said:

    Gentlemen. Please explain a specific situation to me. My engine has 280,000 miles since overhaul. The bearings (babbitt) had .0015" clearance when installed 27 years ago and the one bearing I had out three years ago had .002" clearance. When I use straight 20 wt oil I have 20lbs pressure at an idle at start up and 40lbs at highway speed. After four hours (200 miles)the pressure is the same at highway speed and drops to 15lbs at an idle. The one time when I couldn't get single weight oil I used 10/30. Start up was the same but after 200 miles my pressure dropped to 30lbs at speed and 10lbs at an idle. This is still with in the accepted range according to my operators manual.

    The 10/30 oil was thinner than the 20wt oil when the pressure was lower.

     

    Probably due to shear forces between loose 1 pistons and cylinder walls knackering up the viscocity stabilisers in the multigrade oil.

    1 Loose relative to engines the oils were designed for.

     

    https://www.google.co.uk/search?rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB768GB768&ei=xau4W5X4BozVgAaG65jIDg&q=effect+shear+forces+on+viscosity+stabilisers+in+engine+oil&oq=effect+shear+forces+on+viscosity+stabilisers+in+engine+oil&gs_l=psy-ab.3...20722.33795.0.34682.16.16.0.0.0.0.155.1685.8j8.16.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.9.952...33i10i160k1j33i10i21k1j33i10k1.0.InfeBMMgIvM

  6. A broad brush discussion document ;o)

     

    "Detergent" oil has a couple of "Magic" ingredients.

    Summat as stops little bits of muck as come from burning petrol sticking together.

    Summat as stops they ittle bits of muck sticking to metal.

     

    Multigrade oil has summat as stops it getting too thin to lub at 100C

    an' keeps it thin enough to just about lub at 40C.

     

    Neither 20W40 nor 20 grade lubs that well when it's brass monkeys.

    Your granddads would probably have diluted sump oil with kero in very cold weather.

    They may well have added kero, and run the engine for a while before they changed oil too.

     

    If you use a thinner oil, you get a better flow.

    Better flow = better lubing.

     

    If you have a better flow, you are more likely to wash sh . . you know what

    out your oil galleries, and through your bearings :-(

     

    The washed out sh . . may or may not damage your bearings.

    The washed out Sh . . may or may not clog your sump filter.

     

    Flow rate varies with temperature.

    Without knowing the temp of your oil.

    It's near on impossible to guess if 20 grade or 20W40

    poses a greater level of risk when you're running..

     

    If you've bought a used motor, best check the sump filter.

    At a guess, stuffing one o' they little camera do-dahs

    in through the sump plug 'ole

    and taking a gander round

    is a good startin' point.

     

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