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the head is giving me a headache... it keeps on cracking next to the weld. just to explain what i've been doing; - made a barbeque that is big enough to fit the head in - heated the head to 250 celcius - welded 1cm at a time with my mig welder using stainless steel wire, hammering down the weld to reduce stress before it cools down. - it looks fine but after cooling down in the barbeque there are plenty of tiny cracks. don't want to glue it with epoxy, maybe just braze it with silver/copper if nothing else works. anybody a bright idea that works

engine number is p188902 if that helps

hi keiser31 the head looks the same as the one from narve. casting number is in the picture. the welding did not really go as planned, the material is very thin and rusted out from inside. cracks just moved to the next spot next to the weld. now it seems to be crack free but if you have another head i would really be interested. if you can ship in the us that would be easy. just let me know what the total cost is. thnx chris

Thanks, that also explains why the starter button needed an extended hole in the floor, i will aline it if it ever gets in. A new problem arose as i discovered a crack in the outside of the cylinder head. That is likely the reason why the car was abondoned many years ago. Plan is to weld the crack which is a challenge as is over the full width of the head. Anyone a spare head for a 65? Chris

Thanks Narve, I think I'll invent some new mounts. I have access to plenty of big rubbers like used on the front. two of these on each side of the rear must be sufficient. Chris

After taking the engine out both rear engine rubbers are quite bad. I wonder if these are original. The engine plate is also cracked because the load on the plate is quite badly transfered. In front of the plate there are 4 big holes in the frame, I wonder if these are the original holes for the engine rubber mounts. Need to fix it and prefer to make it either original or better.... if any one has pictures please let me know chris

this weekend pulled the engine and gearbox from my 65. I was happy that I did not attempt to start the engine, the water pump was completely stuck. after taking it out the impeller is almost completely rusted away, shaft is rusted deeply needs a rebuild. started rebuilding it new shaft, reaming the bushes just need to machine the impeller from brass. actually quite easy and it will be ready this week. now I have a question: when I look into the water pump hole in the block I can see a channel going to the manifold side of the block but there is also a direct view on the first cylinder wall and two openings that will flow water directly in the block around the first cylinder. I wonder if this opening should be closed with a large disc. I did see this with a chevy but no idea if it was in the chrysler block. thanks for any info

Problem solved. Went to the Dutch road authorities and requested for a formal identification based on the 1929 documents from Denmark. They were really helpfull and after I explained the Fedco system the correct number was punched in the chassis. To my surprise I also got the full vehicle registration and the car is road legal now. So my barfind is approved for the road without brakes, lights,engine,tires etcetera. I even got the advice to just make it run and not to restore more than necessary, they are really a bunch of car lunatics who were happy to see a real car and not the modern run of the mill vehicles the see every day. Thanks to everybody for your help in this Chris

this evening the rear plating removed, no sign of any number yet. there is also not a lot of space for a number, too many rivets and holes.. next try is under the running boards, can really see a thing on first glance, might need the sandblaster to reach high on the chassis. keep you posted good thing is that the chassis by now is 50 percent clean, no rust no rot, at least that makes me happy

thanx for both replies, i had a look at the rear but nothing visible. maybe i can remove the sheet metal but i wonder if the number is covered by anything. first focus is now on left rear. hope for the best

gentlemen i need some help to find the chassis number in my 1929 chrysler 65. i cleaned the frame close to each spring support, up to the bare metal and no sign of any number. could it be that the number is on the horizontal flanges of the chassis frame. or do is it covered by some sheet metal that i need to take of. what size are the numbers.. picture from front frame behind the spring support left and right side. thnx for any help chris

be careful with galvanic zinc coating. better hot dip them in zinc. galvanic will cause hydrogen brittleness and that is a bad idea for spokes. problem can be prevented if you do a heat treatment after the galvanic plating.

Thanks for the offer, it will take some time for me to get started. But good to know that also in europe there are mopar specialists. May I ask if there is any literature on the simple 65. I did find an instruction book for an imperial but it does have the bigger engine with the generator driven by the distribution chain. Mine has the v belt driven version i guess the 195 cu. Still need to decide if the engine needs to be cleaned inside, after my experience with a 1937 austin my worry is there is an enourmous amount of sludge in the oil passages. Ofcourse the austin has no oil filter so that doesnt really help either. Keep you posted Chris

thanks for the welcome, pretty sure I will need lots of help in getting parts. living in The Netherlands it will be tricky to find parts new or used.

i'm new on this forum and just want to show the car I got last month. not much known other than that it comes from denmark, and ended up in belgium where i found it. not sure when and what I will do to make it a driver. maybe just make the engine running and fix the brakes and leave the rest rusty as it is. car is mostly original and complete, just missing the fuel gauge in the dashboard. engine and chassis number match a build date of october 1928. first registration in denmark mid 1929 seems ok. keep you posted on progress as soon as my austin 7 is back on the road chris