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Thanks Narve, Without your cylinder head nothing would have worked! By the way the exhaust muffler is from a dodge WC, not very silent indeed. I'll share some pictures of the body soon Chris

I thought it was time to share the restoration progress on my 2 door sedan. Chassis and engine are done😀. Chassis nog is very scary to drive, but very fast! Currently working on the body, keep you posted and have fun. Chris

Today a new throttle body came in from Zenith. It takes a while but it is for sure a good service.

Coming back on my original question did any one try either zenith carbs? In the meantime I got the 24mm version, and it works! One little issue is the quality, the idle needle bore is offset and the needle is too far open making the mixture too rich at idle. Zenith does not respond tot my claim, even when pictures show the offset clearly. Sending the whole thing back to the US will cost me a fortune. Now I machined the bore and I am getting there. Acceleration is great and the engine is running like new. With a better service and quality from zenith of would be a good buy🙁

One of the two carbs is made for a Ford 3000 tractor , the other one for a perkins 4 cyl 238 CID. both around 70/80HP so that should be fine. both carbs seem to have a vacuum accelerator pump which is good. the worrying part is that you can buy a chinese carb for a ford 3000 @ $100.. not sure if anyone tried this before. The A ford carb is a bit smaller either of the two I guess. Zenith carbs are not inexpensive new, so if anyone tried these I would still like to hear it. as a last option I can convert the whole thing to LPG, that runs smooth per definition. Any experiences?

Hi all, after 2 years I finally managed to start my rebuild engine, unfortunately the original stromberg U2 is not working. it runs on the choke only and it is cracked everywhere. Now I found 2 replacement new carbs from Zenith, the 267LWX9 and the 267LCX9 with 24 and 22mm venturi respectively. my question is if anybody tried either of these on a 195CID chrysler? below the info I got from Zenith. thnx Chris

the filter you have must be from a ww2 jeep or dodge, cartridges are easy to get. put mine on the engine.

Hi Narve, Firstly best wishes for 2021. Got my pistons for the 1929 65 from the UK. Made in australia but not that expensive. You can find the JP pistons on their site. Paid 150 australian dollar per piece. Very helpful people. t: +441952 252892 e: pjackson@fwthornton.co.uk f: +44 1952 246082 www.fwthornton.co.uk www.vintagemotorcyclepistons.co.uk My car is going fine, chassis is now almost ready. Next is the body. Regards Chris

Try this mob in Australia, https://www.norndaautomotive.com.au/jp-pistons/technical-information.html free advice i got from moab. pistons are half the price of egge and delivery was perfect. regards chris

Hi Narve, Thanks for the offer. I bought a 714L armature and it seems to work. Needed to ream the bushes somewhat bigger but messed up the alignment. Today I made new bushes and reamed them in a lathe. I will post some pictures asap. The 714L armature is in the end an easy fit and plenty available. Chris

Thanks, that is exactly what I needed. Untill now it was just guessing. I will order the armature, not inexpensive in the netherlands but it will be here this week. I will post again when the starter hopefully works.

Dear friends, my starter is still not working. Does anybody know if it can be rebuild using chevy parts from the 714L? Or does anyone have a 714d for sale?

The starter runs but has the power of a little usb fan... it is now with a local rebuilder. Not sure if they can fix it, but on ebay parts for a chevy starter 714L are quite easy to get. Does anybody know if the armature would fit a chrysler starter? Or does any one know if the chevy runs the same direction? Thnx for any info

made a misitake measuring, 367mm od is the same as mine, can confirm it can't be removed with the bolts in place. lifted the cranckshaft with fly wheel on when rebuilding the engine. thanks to Ben for checking the flywheel. chris

it must have been added in a later stage, i have the feeling the bendix is a bit too close to the ring gear. that's why i like to know how many teeth are on the machined gears , the engine is a 195ci.

My car has a shrink fit ring gear fitted, I just wonder if it is having the right number of teeth. Counted 114 and 11 on the bendix. OD of the ring gear is appr 392mm. Car is a 1929 type 65, ring gear is a bit damaged but not too bad. Anybody has a ideas on how many teeth on the stock flywheel and what is the OD Thnx Chris

Thanks for the confirmation, never seen this before. Let's hope it will work😀. I know where i will spend my Christmas.... Trying to start the engine.

After opening the starter of my 1929 65 i'm a bit confused. Clearly someone worked on it in the past. It seems 2 Field coils are missing, or can someone say that this is standard. Any Idea how to fix this? I don't see how 2 other fields would connect to the brushes either.

Met 65 engine is just painted in landrover green, still had a bit left. Thanks to Narve for the head , now everything is as good as new. I like the green , black would very plain.😀

Narve, The oxalic acid is very mild with 1kg dissolved in 10 liter. It does not eat metal like Hcl. After two days flushing at 30 to 40 degrees temperature the rust was gone. Initially there was an air pocket in the block, so when I checked after one day the difference was really clear. Strangely after rinsing with soda, the metal turns green, cannot get it of not even with a high pressure washer. The cilinder head was put in a tank without heating and came out nicely. The oxalic acid is easily available, it is used for cleaning wood that blackened due to water. The way you cleaned the fedco plate was great, i will try mine asap. Chris

moak, thanks voor the link. These pistons are half the price of egge! JP directed me to the UK distributor which saves a lot of money.

sounds good, now finding pistons big enough. checking with egge in process. thanks

Working on my engine and after measuring the bores I need new pistons. Problem is that already +0.060" pistons are in. Can it safely be bored to +0.080" ? Can't re-use the current ones as there is one odd piston type in, and the skirt clearance is about 10x what it should be. Or is there anybody with experience of putting sleeves in the block? The wallthickness of the casting is not that much. After removing rust with oxalic acid it is nice and clean inside. Picture of the tea kettle (heated) with a little pump inside to flow acid through the block thanks for any feedback chris

Alain, Which pistons did you use? Was it E145 or E218. Price difference is huge. Where did you order them. I am rebuilding my 65 2 door sedan engine and new piston are needed Thnx for any info Chris