Kellygreen

61polara makes sense, as was in box of misc items when purchased 1948 New Yorker. Yes will sell. how do we do this ?

Width 1 5/16", Height 1 5/8" electric contact inside

The price has been reduced to $35,900. Kelly M.

the 39 LZ had an electric oil pressure sense, right? I thought King-Seeley units all were bourbon bulb and tube, ? so if it is an 80# pump, and I change to an 80# sender, do I need to replace the gauge on the dash to read 80# max? I'll get under car this week to look more closely at sender.

thanks Mssr. Bwatoe but I am not getting where this brass spring is located. I've got these big "ham hands" and it is a very tight fit for me to get hand and fingers up behind switch. In your photo above, is the photo of the switch as it is oriented behind dash? what I can see of mine,, the screw terminals face upward, not sideways. In photo, in lower left, I see the brass external threaded fitting (which the chrome bezel screws onto), and I'm guessing that the knurled brass piece is behind the dash. the other brass piece in your photo is attached to the switch "box" and I see where the rod would enter. Is this what is squeezed?

She has survived well.......... (and my wife too) original Beetle Green nitro cellulose paint original optional Custom Green wool broadcloth interior original matching headliner Columbia overdrive windwings radio rear seat foot bolsters wide white wall tires and spare bumper guards rebuilt V12 engine aluminum heads AACA Historic Preservation award Illinois $37,900. negotiable kelly10@ameritech.net

All the functions of the headlight switch work except the tail lights and circuit to the dash lights. The dimmer rheostat for the dash lights works as it was tested out of car. Looking up from below, I believe the farthest terminal inward on the switch housing, (only one on the right side and three terminals on left side,) ; is the tail light/dash light terminal, if so, the double lead wire seems to be soldered onto the headlight switch terminal, so I have to remove the switch assembly. I unscrewed the chrome bezel nut on the the dash side of the light shaft exposing a brass fitting. 1. How do you get the head light shaft / rod out of switch assembly so you can drop assembly down from the back? the knob does not seem to be threaded on.

Two questions; 1. small consistent drip from oil pressure sensors. Is it just a matter of tightening the fitting; some something more, gasket, etc? 2. at cold start, oil pressure goes to 50 pounds and stays there, even if I drive it 30 miles. Sensor in engine, gauge? step by step on how to test each, Thanks.