kiwitony

Thanks Guys Now I can be certain that I am now running the engine over or under full its great to get a good quick response to my last post. Also thanks to Barry for his reaction to the Facebook post. I will upload a photo when I have finished the car. Tony

Hi it's interesting the amount of posts about oil but my original post was a request for the volumes of oil I needed for this car. That is for engine, gearbox and rear axel relying on the dip stick for the engine is not a good idea as I have 3 different dip sticks with different markings and can not rely on the one that came with the engine as what was supposed to be a recondition engine had a lot of things wrong. Such as crack between 2 valve seats and a large rust pit under the meshing point of the oil pump gears plus other things wrong. Also the gearbox and axel only have level plugs not dip sticks Can any one help me with the these volumes Tony

Gary I am not against modern oils and was offered an oil by a local parts shop that was the correct grade but was a modern type of oil that was not the one recommended by Penrite Australia that I have used for other cars of this age in New Zealand. I contacted Penrite about this and the reply was that the oil for modern engines has an additive that keeps the dirt in suspension so it can be removed by a full flow filter. The oil they recommend for engines without full flow filters has an additive that does not hold the dirt in suspension so it drops out into the sump. The only different between the oil for modern engines and the one recommended is these additives. There can be a problem in using oils designed for modern gear boxes and axels in older vehicles, one of them is that EP oils have an additive that attacks one of the metals in bronze at high temperatures and bearings and gears made of bronze wear very quickly or crumble into small pieces. Years ago I worked for an engineering firm the sold worm drive boxes for industrial drive systems 3 of the oil companies I contacted to see what oil our customers could use said to use EP oils as the temperature in the box was not high enough to affect the bronze the forth one put me in touch with their chemist who agreed me about EP oil for this use, the problem with the first 3 they were only checking the temp of the oil in the box not at the gear contact point which is much higher. Modern oils are very good for what they are designed for but they can cause problems when used as a substitute for other oils Tony

Thanks for the information on the GE models. I need this information for the gearbox and rear axel as well as the engine. As the oils are not readerly available at a local supplier I need to know the amount of oil so they can get them in for me. Modern types of oils are not suitable for this age of car.

Hi I am in the final stages of restoring a 1925 Standard 6 ER Duplex. I can can get the correct grades of oil in New Zealand but can not find any oil capacity information in any of the technical information or handbook that I have for it can anyone help with this information. Thanks Tony

Thanks Brad now I can look them up. Regards Tony

Hi Brad, what is the name of the Auctionneer. Tony