Rusty Heaps

Thanks for the tips on the temp sensor and head gasket. I would prefer to leave the manifolds intact because that just seems to open up another can of worms. I’m already looking at diving deeper into this than I originally intended. I believe the head can be pulled without removing the hood since the ‘53 opens in the “alligator “ way instead of the side opening method of the previous makes.

It looks like I will have to pull the head off of the 263 in my ‘53 Special. The intake valve is stuck in the open position and I can’t get it to free up. I managed to take the temper out of the springs with a torch instead of getting the valve to move. This after repeated soakings of Kroil. Now the best option seems to be pull the head and replace the valve and springs. What is the best way to remove the head and manifolds together as a unit? Lift points? And this is an engine with a standard transmission, is it necessary to use the head gasket for same, or can I use the gasket for the engine with the automatic transmission? It’s my understanding that the gasket for the latter is thinner and will increase compression and HP slightly. Any insights on the matter will be greatly appreciated.

I can’t get to the car any more than you can see in the picture. The basement is crammed with all sorts of stuff including other cars! Don’t be a hoarder!

My father acquired a ‘38 2dr sedan approximately four decades ago with the story that there were only 8 known examples. I say the story is more likely to be a fabrication than truth. Any ideas on numbers still in existence? The vehicle has been in storage since he purchased it.

Looks like March 19 of 1948

Very much so! Oversized that is.

Yes, a friend turned me on to installing a wide view mirror of the same size onto the passenger side mirror. I have to say that it’s some of the best advice I’ve received for an older car. You’ll love it and no one else will notice the difference.

Hose it all down with gloss, it’ll be satin soon enough! 😁

Want to trade? Just kidding. Your work looks great! I can’t wait to see the final product. And again, it is nice to see a sedan being restored.

Want to part with the spacers? I may be persuaded to relieve you of them, and I wouldn’t charge you a dime!

What wheels are you using in the photo? I have similar on the ‘52 basket case Special I’m working on but they won’t work without spacers because the front hubs are too big to fit into the center of the wheel. I would like to use the style and think it’s a good look for the car.

🤮

Unless the seals are done in.

Have you checked out Bob’s Automobilia? And could we see some pics of your ‘52?

I have a set of these rims, not sure what numbers, on my ‘52 Special. They were on the basket case when I bought it. Apparently the front hubs are too big for the rims to seat properly , they have no register ring. Any ideas on what will fit? I really like the look.

How similar is it to the ‘41-‘48 Special? If you’re not able to obtain one otherwise, I may be able to retrieve one from a local junkyard the next time I go. Let me know if I can help.

If you’re resigned to live with it, be sure to have good insurance and don’t let your insurance agent see this thread!

You have to wonder why they sell them if they’re not compatible with the grease needed to lubricate the parts.

I’ve been dealing with a similar problem on my Chevrolet with a 216 with a Rochester one barrel. Start it up and sometimes fuel pukes out of the carburetor. I can tell immediately when it does by the rough idle and wanting to stall out. Pop the hood and gas is pouring over the manifolds, not good! I’ve rebuilt it twice and even installed a new float. I hope you figure out the problem with your car and hopefully it will be the same with mine. I’m about at my wits end.

I had the shoes on my ‘52 Special relined at a nearby local shop that also does clutches (World Clutch) while I waited! I also have access to a junkyard that still has some Specials from the ‘50s, and was able to acquire the drums.

A good question! I did the upper pins with the shocks on my ‘46 Chevrolet and the manual has instructions to do the same. I didn’t. I did as you suggest and installed them without the stretch. I don’t trust the rubber these days, it’s probably cheap c$@p from China that won’t stretch over the parts without tearing. Things went well with the install. Good luck with your project. Let us know how it goes.

Way to go Lance! She is a sharp car!

Thanks for your help guys. I tried to tighten the stator, no luck, it’s already tight. We’ll look at parts now.

The worst leak other than the torque ball is AE, AF, AG in pic number two. He probably should also replace V,Y, AA in pic4. I’m just trying to help him make it a safe and roadworthy vehicle. How difficult is it to replace the bushings for the kingpin? I’m somewhat familiar with the Chevrolet version.

I’m working on a ‘56 Special 4dr wagon for a friend of mine. The transmission, a Dynaflow, is leaking (terribly) around the shift mechanism on the side. Also coming out from under the flywheel cover and drain plug. I found no info about the shifter, is there an O-ring? Or? I assume that the drain plug should have one, also. The manual indicates that the leaks around the cover indicates it could be the converter drain plugs. And, if all that wasn’t bad enough, the torque ball pours fluid when the vehicle is on an incline.