Kfigel

Can anyone suggest a brand and/or type of transmission oil to use in my '22 Big Six? Just drained the old oil, and the service manual just says to use a quality transmission oil as a replacement. Is 600 w fluid that's available ok?Thanks

Thanks, -Ken

Thanks, -Ken

Since I'm changing out my spark plug wires, I thought I'd look to replace my 100 year old distributor cap on my '22 Big Six (Remy distributor). A reproduction one would be fine (as long as it's serviceable) since NOS ones I've come across range upwards of $300. Anyone know of an aftermarket supplier for one that would fit? I see some that sure look correct on eBay and the generic parts manufacturers, but no-one seems to dimension them, etc. so I can tell that they would actually fit my car. Also, is there a supplier for rotor and points anyone knows of. Thanks

In 2021 I had asked for input on the type of oil to use in my '22 Studebaker under the Studebaker category. It was under my post: 1922 Big Six Oil Type Got input that included some thoughts on using zinc rich oil. You may want to read through that post. There are definitely fellows out there with experience on this. Good luck, and Happy Motoring!

There was pretty much nothing in my screen filter when I just took it off.

Appreciate all the good input and especially Stude Light's clear explanation of just what "detergent" and "non-detergent" oil is and does. To distill it down to a couple of sentences...seems like I could stay using the original style "non-detergent" oil knowing I can expect a certain amount of sludge to build up that should be cleaned out periodically or...do an initial cleaning, start/ease into using "detergent" oil knowing that trapped combustion byproducts would be suspended in the circulating oil. To go the later route, I'd want to do oil changes frequently and/or install an aftermarket oil filter of some type. Just for the heck of it...attached is a photo of the oil "filter" screen out of my 1922.

Thanks, I'm in the process of dropping the oil pan to see what's there and clean it. I've owned the car just two years; the fellow I bought it from said he had dropped the pan at one time and cleaned quite a bit of grim out of it. I'll do the crank oil passage also. Your drain and replace the oil to get it to all detergent oil makes sense to me. Certainly, if it's good enough for a Pierce...

February in Buffalo always gives me too much time to think, so this months thoughts have gone to: "Is it practical to get to a point to using detergent oil in my old 1922 Studebaker?" I know the differences and applications of both types of oil have been discussed here a lot, so forgive me if I'm rehashing this topic. Anyway, my thinking has been never to use detergent oil in my car so as not to loosen deposits (i.e. too small for the filter screen) that could plug up openings in the engine. Without adding a modern filtering element setup, could I "wean" my engine onto detergent oil by frequent (every 1000 miles) oil changes, or some other way? It just makes sense to me to use the latest products out there as long as I do no harm to the car.

Never found the mounts; and half didn't really expect to. I'm making up a homemade mount that I believe will work. If it does and I get it chromed so it looks half way decent I'll post a picture.

Thanks

Just pulled the subject carb off of my '22 Studebaker Big Six to have it sent out to be refurbished over the winter. Does anyone have any technical data, specs, etc. on this particular carb that would be helpful?

Hi Bob, I have two 32x4 Goodrich Silvertown Cords that held air when I took them off my car in 2019. Should be good for rollers. Let me know if these might work for you.

Thanks all for your input. Will be changing out the battery and the cables based on it.

I've been going through a similar exercise to identify/put together a set of tools for my 1922 Studebaker Big Six, so I can give you my opinion on a couple of the tools you're showing. The closed hex end/open end wrench in the center of your picture is a hub/spindle wrench for an early Studebaker - it's about 8-3/4" long. The open end wrench at the far right of your picture looks correct as one of four of these type wrenches (all different sizes), again, for an early Studebaker. The "S" shaped open end wrench towards the top is interesting - one of these came with my car but I haven't been able to determine if it is correct. The fact that you have one also lets me believe it is correct. About what year and model Studebaker are you talking about? That would make a difference. Looks to me like there's some speciality tools there that others on this forum, more experienced than me, will give you guidance on. I'm sure they will chime in; and I am interested in what you find out about that S shaped wrench.

The Car Quest "Farm and Commercial" 6V battery that came in my car is only getting up to "Fair" in two of its three cells, so I'm going to look to replace it so I know exactly what I have in the car going forward. Can anyone suggest an appropriate replacement battery? I believe the electrical system is all original and the original Willard battery would have been 6V, around 120 amp-hour (they didn't rate the cold cranking amp back then, correct?) The Car Quest data is pretty much worn off so I can't tell exactly what the previous owner put in there. I'd like to come down on the side of going with higher amps for cranking the old gal - make sense? Also, was there a (steel) battery box that the battery sat in? Mine is on a secured piece of plywood - figured the original frame may have corroded away (?). Thanks

Thanks, Scott. I should have realized all the spare bearings I have are just for the front. Thanks for the part numbers for the rear.

Thanks, Ed.

Looking ahead to installing new wheel bearings in my car and could use some input. I haven't pulled the wheels off yet. The car came with two spare Timken bearings; one No. 3381 and one No. 3331. These are large ones that I'm sure are for the front wheels. From my research it looks like the specs for both bearings are the same. Can anyone verify this for me? There must be some difference to have different part numbers (?) The car also came with two smaller Timken bearings; one No. 2330 and one No. 2382. These must be for the rear wheels (?). Anyone know which number bearing would be correct for my rear wheels? Thanks in advance

From my little corner of the world here in Buffalo...the address on your ice box label, "Cor(ner) of Prime & Hanover Sts", still exists in Buffalo. It is now smack in the middle of Buffalo's Canalside District on the Buffalo River. As the label indicates, this was the factory that the Geo. N. Pierce Co. not only manufactured ice boxes, bird cages, etc., but later on Pierce motorcycles and their first automobiles starting in 1901. This factory is long gone. By 1906 the production of automobiles outgrew this factory and a new huge plant was constructed on Elmwood Ave. in Buffalo. This location still stands and is the factory most people, rightfully so, associate with the manufacture of Pierce-Arrow automobiles. Your ice box appears to be in remarkable shape! I also would not restore or modify it. Let me know if your travels ever brings you to the Buffalo area, and I'd be happy to give you the nickel tour through the Buffalo Transportation/Pierce-Arrow Museum here (I volunteer there).

A little followup on my initial post about a rear seat divider on a Big Six Speedster...from the entry in the second attached photo is sounds like the rear seat divider was installed in the 1922 Speedsters when they first came out in May of that year, but discontinued for the model year 1923 making them a five passenger car. Since my '22 has serial number 13,939 out of 17,139 Big Sixes made in 1922, maybe my particular car was late enough in the '22 model year that the change was made late in '22 and not necessarily at the beginning of the '23 models.

I'm thinking of having my Ball and Ball Carb from my '22 Big Six rebuilt over the winter. It's been seeping gas and don't know if it's ever been serviced before. Anyone have experience with someone they could recommend? Thanks

Hi Jon, for what it's worth, the original carb on my 1922 Stude Big Six (EK) is SV. The owners manual shows it's a double throat as 28 Chrysler stated above. I can't read the number part quite yet as the carb is still on the car. Do you rebuild Ball & Ball carbs such as mine?

Thanks for all the good info Scott.

Looking to install new spark plugs in my '22 Big Six for the first time. Car came with Champion O COM plugs. The only new plug I can find for sale that look like they will fit and work, while keeping the old style screw down wire connections, is the Champion 429 (3X). I'd have to change out the wires with another available - Autolite 3076- and I want to keep the original look. Anyone have experience with these 429 plugs or know of another plug that would work? Thanks