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Kfigel

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    '22 Big Six Spark Lever & Sector

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    21 hours ago, JFranklin said:

    Just for good reference you should verify the direction your distributor turns, and then watch to see which way the lever on the quadrant moves to retard the spark. Now when you want to start your car move the lever in the full retard position.

    Thanks, got it. 

    '22 Big Six Spark Lever & Sector

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    Just would like some input so I'm crystal clear on using the spark advance/retard on my car...on my particular car the spark is fully advance when the spark lever is all the way to the left as shown in the attached photo, correct?  Full retard would obviously be all the way to the right, correct?

    When starting the car the service manual says to move the lever to the "point on the sector marked "Start Spark"". For the life of me I can't find this designation on the sector.  The previous owner had drawn the black line shown that is about 1/3 of the way towards the right for starting the car.  Knowing the car should be started with the spark retarded, should I be starting it with the lever all the way to the right (at full retard), and then move it towards advance (to the left) once the car starts up?  Thanks in advance.    

    Screen Shot 2024-04-15 at 9.08.15 PM.png

    WTB Stewart Vacuum Fuel Tank Flapper Valve (Inner Tank)

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    17 hours ago, Stude Light said:

    Ahh. Okay that makes more sense, however….the inner tank is suspended within the outer tank so the fuel is supposed to drain from the inner tank to the outer until the two fuel levels equal. It is not designed as a check valve to prevent fuel entering from the outer tank as fuel level in the outer will never be higher than the level in the inner. The only thing the flapper valve is designed to do is to flap shut when a vacuum is pulled on the inner tank and  it is submerged in fuel when that happens. With a 5-15 in Hg vacuum applied to the inner tank that flapper valve will suck shut and seal a lot better and the small amount of fuel drawn past is insignificant compared to what flows from the tank. It will be fine.

    Thanks; knew in general how the system worked, but this detail really solidifies it.  Also tells me why I thought this "sealing" point was rather crude in my humble opinion.  Should have the fuel tank back together in a couple of days with good vacuum and fuel delivery!  

    WTB Stewart Vacuum Fuel Tank Flapper Valve (Inner Tank)

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Stude Light said:

    Wait! What??!

     

    If you are getting water in, you have some other problems. All my tanks, and others I've rebuilt, use a micarta flapper valve. Whether micarta or brass, they aren't expected to make a perfect seal but just enough to allow the engine vacuum to draw fuel from the tank.

    Ich bin ein dummkopf.  The H2O I referred to was how I "tested" my inner tank.  Cleaned the tank thoroughly, then set it up so it sat in a small pot of water to see if any leaked into the tank through the valve/flapper (no vacuum applied).  Did have some after a while but not a lot; wasn't sure if any was acceptable.  I think I'm ok.  

    WTB Stewart Vacuum Fuel Tank Flapper Valve (Inner Tank)

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    11 hours ago, JFranklin said:

    That is a simple valve. Have you thought of running both sides over sandpaper on a piece of glass to smooth, and ensure the mating surfaces are flat?

    Right, it's just two metal surfaces mating to each other.  I did do a very light sanding with 320 paper over both surfaces and I still get some water into the inner tank.  The surface on the valve body seems to be flat.  The surface on the flapper looks to have a raised round lip that, I guess, is to seal against, or nest into, the flat surface on the body.  A little surprised that this was intended to form a tight seal, but it is 1920's technology.  Asking if these are reproduced was a shot in the dark.  Am thinking to have someone who refurbishes these, like Tim Long in PA, to just take it and see if he could improve it.  Thanks 

    • Like 1

    Need '22 Studebaker Cylinder Head Bolt Supplier

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    19 minutes ago, Axial_Flow said:

    I would say that could be an option for sure.  Grade 5 would be more than good enough for our application. 

     

    I ordered one stud from McMaster just to see how they are, very high quality, but sorta on the expensive side $7.67 per piece.

    Correct on the price, especially with the number we would need to replace all of them.  The 20” rods are only $4.50 each. 

    Need '22 Studebaker Cylinder Head Bolt Supplier

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    On 11/7/2023 at 6:15 AM, Axial_Flow said:

    Another option 

    Threaded Rods, 7/16"-14 to 7/16"-20 Thread Size, 3-1/2" Long

    https://www.mcmaster.com/94358A461

    I see that TruckSprings Co. in Michigan sells a 20" long, Gr. 5,  7/16" dia. rod that I would say could be cut and threaded into new studs that would be the correct dia., length and thread.  They are already threaded about 4-1/2" on each end with a fine thread (20?).  https://www.truckspring.com/suspension-parts/hardware/steel-threaded-rod/7-16-inch/TH-716X20.aspx?LineItemId=285d7f8b-9703-4735-b4e8-8abbc2520e15  

    Need '22 Studebaker Cylinder Head Bolt Supplier

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    On 11/7/2023 at 7:39 PM, Stude Light said:

    Below is what I'm referring to for a torque pattern. This particular one is for a Cadillac Flathead V8 but gives you an idea of a pattern to follow as nothing exists for an early Studebaker. The idea is to keep from warping your head and getting a better seal. 

     

    image.png.7b88975bb998a4fe61c3e1f4ac222aac.png

    This is the aluminum head off my Light Six after a light mill cut. If you look closely there are a couple of areas filled around the ports

    DSC06874.JPG.5b00e4a773e85bd31638d0a300fa5599.JPGAnd the gasket after applying Permatex Copper Spray

    DSC06875.JPG.9893eea834522c809ce1413eebc724ec.JPG

     

    Thanks, Scott.  Expect to have my head off over the next couple of days.  It appears that it will look very similar to your photos.  I'll be following your advice.  A picture's worth a thousand words.  

    Need '22 Studebaker Cylinder Head Bolt Supplier

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    52 minutes ago, Stude Light said:

    I would have the head surfaced. It doesn’t cost much and will give you a better sealing surface. First, check for any erosion around the water ports, especially if it is on the gasket sealing surface. If you find any, it would be best to clean up (sand blast is best) then fill with a good two part epoxy (JB Weld?). After surfacing, any of those pits will be filled and flat and seal well.
     

    You should do the same on the block side around those waterports. Use degreaser and a small wire brush. Fill with epoxy. After it cures take a file and knock down the high spots and block sand it flat. 
     

    As for the gasket, no sealant is necessary although most folks, including me, would spray some Permatex Copper on each side of the gasket prior to install. It is primarily for improving head transfer but also provides a little improvement in sealing. The soft copper conforms to the surface and provides the seal.

     

    Your next question may be torquing the head down. Do it from the center studs outward. Start by snugging, then keep following a center out pattern (center, then next each side of center and so on) gradually increasing torque. You probably don’t need more than 50 ft lbs max.

     

    Important- after running the engine the first time, let it cool and retorque the head using the center out pattern. After the first couple of drives, retorque again (cold). Then maybe one more time after some more driving.

    Scott

    Thanks, Scott.  Good information that I'll be following.  Each task on this car is a new adventure; learning and otherwise. 

    Need '22 Studebaker Cylinder Head Bolt Supplier

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Axial_Flow said:

    Another option 

    Threaded Rods, 7/16"-14 to 7/16"-20 Thread Size, 3-1/2" Long

    https://www.mcmaster.com/94358A461

    Thanks, I just around today to measuring up the one stud/nut I took out of my car, and it matches your car; no surprise there I guess. My size is also 7/16-20 by 3-1/2"; long.  I have just started looking for a supplier, but it looks like the McMaster ones you put me onto would work fine.  Actually having the hex head drive in the top of the stud would be good for ease of installation and removal.  I plan to order up a set of these.  My studs and nuts look ok but I was afraid the studs may be stretched.  Thanks for this lead.  While I have you... my service manual it doesn't call for any sealant to be installed with the new head gasket I'm installing.  This is my very first time doing this, so...is just cleaning the surfaces (and not checking for flatness) sufficient for installing the new gasket unless I see a reason to have the surfaces checked?  Haven't quite taken the head off yet to get a look at it, but expecting that my problem is a breached gasket between cylinders 1 and 2 that is giving me low compression readings at these two cylinders (the other four cylinders are fine compression-wise). 

    2024 National AACA Convention

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    8 minutes ago, szimmerman said:

    Now that we are past the big Hershey show, we will be able to focus more on the convention. We are planning to get the registration form and a preliminary seminar schedule out sometime in November. Keep your eye on Speedster for convention information and updates.

    Thanks

    1922 Big Six Engine Vacuum Leak

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    29 minutes ago, Axial_Flow said:

    How well is the engine running in this current state of low manifold vacuum?

     

    With such a low reading, I suspect a leaking or stuck open intake valve or serious loss of engine compression.

     

    Please report your findings

    Well, the car actually won't run at all with such low vacuum because it has a vacuum fuel pump.  4 inches is not enough to draw any gas into the canister.  I did prime the canister with gas and the car did start and run until it ran out of that gas.  During that relatively short time the engine ran very rough.  I should add that I initially had 1" of vacuum and heard the tell-tale "pisst" sound of rushing air.  I then resealed the six priming cups connections, and that got rid of the sound and increased the vacuum to 4".  Looks like there is a significant leak elsewhere.  

    1922 Big Six Engine Vacuum Leak

    in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Stude Light said:

    I would expect that it should read something north of 15 in Hg at an idle. 4 is way low.

     

    To find a leak, I use a flammable spray such as carb cleaner or starting fluid and just use short bursts around each connection or gasketed area and when you hear an increase in engine rpm you have found the culprit.

    Thanks, Scott.  Given the age of the car I thought I should be seeing a value approaching 18 inches, but wasn't quite sure what it might be around. 

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