Kfigel

Thanks, Linus.

Thanks, got it.

Just would like some input so I'm crystal clear on using the spark advance/retard on my car...on my particular car the spark is fully advance when the spark lever is all the way to the left as shown in the attached photo, correct? Full retard would obviously be all the way to the right, correct? When starting the car the service manual says to move the lever to the "point on the sector marked "Start Spark"". For the life of me I can't find this designation on the sector. The previous owner had drawn the black line shown that is about 1/3 of the way towards the right for starting the car. Knowing the car should be started with the spark retarded, should I be starting it with the lever all the way to the right (at full retard), and then move it towards advance (to the left) once the car starts up? Thanks in advance.

Thanks; knew in general how the system worked, but this detail really solidifies it. Also tells me why I thought this "sealing" point was rather crude in my humble opinion. Should have the fuel tank back together in a couple of days with good vacuum and fuel delivery!

Ich bin ein dummkopf. The H2O I referred to was how I "tested" my inner tank. Cleaned the tank thoroughly, then set it up so it sat in a small pot of water to see if any leaked into the tank through the valve/flapper (no vacuum applied). Did have some after a while but not a lot; wasn't sure if any was acceptable. I think I'm ok.

Thanks, that was my gut feeling but wasn't sure never having rebuilt one. I guess I just wanted that input from others that had some experience.

Right, it's just two metal surfaces mating to each other. I did do a very light sanding with 320 paper over both surfaces and I still get some water into the inner tank. The surface on the valve body seems to be flat. The surface on the flapper looks to have a raised round lip that, I guess, is to seal against, or nest into, the flat surface on the body. A little surprised that this was intended to form a tight seal, but it is 1920's technology. Asking if these are reproduced was a shot in the dark. Am thinking to have someone who refurbishes these, like Tim Long in PA, to just take it and see if he could improve it. Thanks

Anyone know if someone is reproducing flapper valves for the inner tank of a 1920's era Stewart Vacuum Fuel Tank? The couple of used ones I have leak ever so slightly.

Anyone know if someone is reproducing flapper valves for the inner tank of a 1920's era Stewart Vacuum Fuel Tank? The couple of used ones I have leak ever so slightly.

Thanks. I see that the final seminar schedule hasn't been issued yet. Might be available when that schedule comes out.

Maybe I'm missing it, this being my first convention, but the only registration I see is for a hotel room. One has to register for the actual convention and its activities also, correct? Is this done when you first arrive at the convention? If so, are the costs for the different convention activities available beforehand? Thanks

Correct on the price, especially with the number we would need to replace all of them. The 20” rods are only $4.50 each.

I see that TruckSprings Co. in Michigan sells a 20" long, Gr. 5, 7/16" dia. rod that I would say could be cut and threaded into new studs that would be the correct dia., length and thread. They are already threaded about 4-1/2" on each end with a fine thread (20?). https://www.truckspring.com/suspension-parts/hardware/steel-threaded-rod/7-16-inch/TH-716X20.aspx?LineItemId=285d7f8b-9703-4735-b4e8-8abbc2520e15

Thanks, Scott. Expect to have my head off over the next couple of days. It appears that it will look very similar to your photos. I'll be following your advice. A picture's worth a thousand words.

I will and thanks for for the input.

Thanks, Scott. Good information that I'll be following. Each task on this car is a new adventure; learning and otherwise.

Thanks, I just around today to measuring up the one stud/nut I took out of my car, and it matches your car; no surprise there I guess. My size is also 7/16-20 by 3-1/2"; long. I have just started looking for a supplier, but it looks like the McMaster ones you put me onto would work fine. Actually having the hex head drive in the top of the stud would be good for ease of installation and removal. I plan to order up a set of these. My studs and nuts look ok but I was afraid the studs may be stretched. Thanks for this lead. While I have you... my service manual it doesn't call for any sealant to be installed with the new head gasket I'm installing. This is my very first time doing this, so...is just cleaning the surfaces (and not checking for flatness) sufficient for installing the new gasket unless I see a reason to have the surfaces checked? Haven't quite taken the head off yet to get a look at it, but expecting that my problem is a breached gasket between cylinders 1 and 2 that is giving me low compression readings at these two cylinders (the other four cylinders are fine compression-wise).

Anyone know of a supplier for a set of cylinder head bolts and nuts for a 1922 Studebaker Big Six?

Thanks

Does anyone know about when the list of seminars to be offered at the 2024 National Convention in VA gets published?

Thanks, I'll take those on next!

Will do.

Well, the car actually won't run at all with such low vacuum because it has a vacuum fuel pump. 4 inches is not enough to draw any gas into the canister. I did prime the canister with gas and the car did start and run until it ran out of that gas. During that relatively short time the engine ran very rough. I should add that I initially had 1" of vacuum and heard the tell-tale "pisst" sound of rushing air. I then resealed the six priming cups connections, and that got rid of the sound and increased the vacuum to 4". Looks like there is a significant leak elsewhere.

Thanks, Scott. Given the age of the car I thought I should be seeing a value approaching 18 inches, but wasn't quite sure what it might be around.

Looks like I've got a vacuum leak in my engine. I'm reading 4 inches Hg at the intake manifold; Stewart canister not getting any gas as it is a vacuum fuel pump. Anyone know if the original design vacuum for my car is 18-22 inches Hg; if not, do you know what it is? Thanks