Chrisssssssss

Ya thats what i was thinking. Just would like to have the spare around. I will grab it just in case.

I do have some pics... Do these help?

Theres an 89 Olds 98 in the pick n pull lot with the ABS system still there. Was contemplating picking it up as a soare in case mine barfs. Is it compatible at all? If not then other than the Riv what should i look for?

So... i got sidetracked and didnt get a chance to look at the window closer. Is there any other cars that i can actually find in a pick n pull that will have compatible pieces like the plastic clip thingy that i can be on the lookout for? There is an 89 olds 98 in the lot... would it have anything useful there?

Door panel is off. I am gonna look into this "plastic guide" you speak of... Will report back. En route... I have both panels off so I will compare... I am installing and experimenting with speakers in the doors for a major sound system upgrade.

He missed one of the coolest parts of the Reatta touch screen... The on board diagnostics. How could he miss that? Maybe the owner didn't know or forgot to mention it? It would have made this whole review a million times better...

Does it look to me if those tabs are bent inwards? Is that how the magnavox units are supposed to be? Shouldn't they be straight up and down like the Delco units? Just wondering...

Hey all, Like the title says, I am having issues with the power window on the passenger side. It gets 1/3 of the way down then suddenly stops and grinds the gears if you keep pressing the button. It will also grind the gears when it gets to the top. What area should I look at to see what is causing this? When it gets to the 1/3 down mark, I can take the window by my hands and force it down and back up again by an inch or two and if I do this the motor spins freely both up and down. The window also seems to have a bit of play side to side when I move it around freely at the 1/3 down mark. If I were to hazzard a guess, is it possible that the tracks are somehow out of alignment or a bolt / fastener somewhere that may be loose? It looks like all the gear teeth in the regulator are ok but I can't say for sure maybe I missed one behind something? Any thoughts?

Ya I think mine is a 2204 and runs great... Which brings up another question: What are the differences to the different rev numbers of the proms? If there a functional/performance difference? Just curious.

Wow... the torque convertor hey... Who'd a thunk it... Well at least you're not spinning around aimlessly now and pointing in the right direction. Always a great satisfaction when you figure something out that has stumped the masses. Now to figure out why and how to fix it. I love seafoam products. They work wonders. TransTune is what I would do too. See how it goes. I also have great respect for the Lucas Oil products. They also have a transmission formula that may work in your favour too. Keep us updated... Good Luck!

Chiming in here, but here are my bad guesses... 1) I think it may be a bad connection somewhere. Maybe bad connection at the sensor, try wiggling all wires and connectors. Or I know it had been said before - bad ground. Try cleaning all grounds by disconnecting the grounds and cleaning with brake cleaner and sanding them clean. Make sure there is no cracked or brittle wires. Or even try adding a secondary ground wire and attach it to a bolt somewhere on the engine and running it to the (-) terminal on the battery. Somehow I really am flashing the loose or bad intermittant connection or ground somewhere. 1b) As a long shot too, could be a bad defective battery shorting out internally causing weird electrical interference/feedback - even same with alternator. Unlikely but possible. If you have another battery swap it in just because. You May even want to clean all connections with contact cleaner or brake cleaner then using some dielectric grease on the connectors. 1c) Especially clean the ecu connectors and the 1d) coil pack unit - take it off and also make sure you clean the grounding spots on the underside well. Try replacing coil packs and the base with known good one. 2) Maf sensor. I know you said you replaced it but a lot of aftermarket units are no good right out of the box. If you can try and grab an oem unit from pick n pull... I would grab a couple. see what happens. 3) Vacuum leak. Try spraying brake cleaner around all your vacuum lines and see if your engine changes it's tone at any point (slightly increase/decrease idle or stumbles a bit) you could have a vacuum leak at that point. Pay close attention to inline connectors or right where the vacuum line connects to something, especially if at a T junction. 4) TPS is inconsistent/ or have a dead spot/ on unlinear or erratic output. I think this may have been mentioned but was this verified? 5) Loose or bad O2 sensor. 6) What about a bad LIM gasket maybe causing havoc internally? It's late, can't sleep so I put my brain to work a bit to tire it out... Don't know if any of this is of any help, or has been tried or double checked but I wanted to play too... Good luck!

Hey Dashmaster, do you have a copy of those instructions that bypass the amp in the radio unit? I would like to do this also.

Ya. I know. I had plans and idea, I wanted to add at least an amp and dsp. Under these rules (our ICBC provincial insurance monopoly sucks) it's not allowed. So I can spend like $130 month on regular normal insurance and do my stereo... or $300 a year for the limited Collectors...

Well then... this sucks... No hidden amp even? No hidden DSP? No hidden sub? Only thing I can do is change out the speakers for replacements in factory size and location... And no amp or booster at all even for those so it would have to play off the factory installed amp from the radio module only. Booooo... Or I can do my stereo, and forgo the collector's status and pretty much huge insurance deals being around 10-20% of what normal insurance cost would be so that's substantial. Also the prestige of the collector's plates status. But too many restrictions. Hmmmm what to do? I can put my systems in my other cars but I wanted to do the Reatta and integrate a high end system with the factory deck. Gah. What are all your thoughts?

I think Daniel means what I am looking for. The Bose radio module that doesn't have a built in amp for regular speakers like most of the other radio modules you find out there. I have several of each of the amped modules (ones w eq and ones w/o eq just bass and treble controls) mainly sourced from GM trucks of the era. The pick n pull is loaded with that era truck and those modules are a plenty out here. If anyone needs one, I will do a capacitor swap to fix the crackles and ship it out to them if anyone wants. Let me know. Not too sure what to charge for one, but whatever. I would do it cheaply. Oh also one other thing. The compass modules that you can add on to the touch screen. What vehicles were they available from? I want to add one of them. I already did a rear view swap with a temperature/compass and auto dim unit. Now want to add the compass to the touchscreen. I am gonna take that door panel off the passenger side within the next few days. It's on the list. Just finishing the lower intake gasket swap job on my 98 Regal GS. This was fun...

Hey all, I am going to be adding some car audio stuff to the reatta and want to know what alternators are compatible for the reatta to use?I looked up on Rock Auto and listed only a few cars as compatible so I was wondering if there was a specific compatible alternator I can look for in a pick n pull to be able to use in the car? If not right out of the box plug and play, how hard to find another more common and higher amperage unit should I look for that could work, but with a few minor wiring tweaks? second, my passenger window only goes down 1/3 of the way then makes a horrible grinding noise and won't go down further. I'm gonna assume new power window internals (actuator?) is probably needed (though I haven't taken off the door panel to inspect yet) is there any interchangeability between a reatta mechanism and other GM cars of that era? Ohhh one last one, If anyone has a radio module that does not have amplified outputs, I would be interested in one. I believe it would have to be from a Bose equipped vehicle because Bose used separate amps for their speakers. I am going to be integrating the factory set-up into a modern system, so Line level outs may be useful, but not absolutely necessary. I wanted to see if the sound quality was better. THanks

Nice!

Would the proper VSS wire be connector c2 B11 the brown coloured wire from the ECM? I am gonna attempt to connect a HUD from a Grand Prix GTP to the Reatta just for kicks. I got the HUD module and wiring from a 02 GPGTP for my Regal, but gonna see if it will work in the Reatta instead. Thx

Thanks Barney. That helps. I may actually get a pair of the cross drilled ones listed... Looks interesting...

hey all, i need to do the brakes on my 89 and I would like to know if there is any direct replacement rotors that will fit the reatta fronts? My rotors need replacing and am going to pick n pull today to see if there's any rotors I can get from there. I still have the factory 15's so the camaro upgrade won't work for me just yet. Also what about the rear? I am on a budget big time at the moment so I wanna try not to order new. I searched a bunch but there is no clear answer for this. Does anyone have a link to the compatible brake systems used on other cars? Thanks

Is the article online I can read it? Or someone can post pics to here of the article? I would love to read it.

OK, So I did a bit of troubleshooting, and I believe it may be due to some old and aging wiring on a long time installed aftermarket car starter/alarm. I think it has something to do with the starter kill circuit wiring or something like that. They twist and taped a couple of the connections under the dash and I think some oxidation and/or corrosion had got to a few connections preventing something from working correctly. On a hunch I decided to check this out because I remember having problems with other cars in the past. So I found a connection or two that if I wiggle or twist at the joint with my hands that it seems to work better. So I will get back to you with the results. Gonna clean it up tomorrow...

Ya. I haven't got around to dignosing it yet. I have a fuel pressure gauge somewhere... So ya, that's where I will start. Good idea. I didn't think about it that way. I will post back results.

Hey all, I am having an issue with the my 89 not starting and will sit there and crank forever. Then sometimes when you turn it off and on a bunch of times I then hear the fuel pump start to whirr and then it will start. Sometimes it will stall after a while, sometimes keep running. It drives fine most of the time, but then it will hesitate and sometimes stall. I am definitely going with a fuel delivery problem. I am going to try and do the fuel pump manual override wiring and see if that helps. Could it be possible that the fuel pump relay is going? I believe I hear it click on when I try to turn the ignition to the run position. But is the relay only for the starting/prime sequence right after the key is turned or until the oil pressure is above 4psi then another fuel pump "run" circuit takes over as active? I also searched and read up on this issue and found these guides: Before pulling the gas tank, put 12V on the fuel pump priming wire (located near the master cyl) You could have a good fuel pump but the ECM is not sending power to the pump because of another sensed problem. You can also check the fuel pump relay. The ECM gives pin #5 of the fuel pump relay 12V to pick the coil. If you do not have the 12V present then the ECM is not sending the signal for some reason. 1) the pump only runs through the relay for two seconds when the key is first turned on then shuts off. That should be enough to get at least 20 psi 2) when oil pressure exceeds about 4 psi the fuel pump is turned on through the oil pressure switch. This does not go through the relay. 3) On my 88 the prime lead is just outboard of the a/c filter/dryer. It is a loose lead with a green flat connector. It should show 12v when the engine is running and when 12v is applied it will put power on the FP circuit. Any other suggestions to really pin point the issue? Thanks Chris

Hey all, I am having some thoughts towards my audio install in my 89 with the touch screen. I am gonna probably use an ipad or Mac (laptop or mini) for the source unit to feed the amps, but I was wondering what the signal input is to the touchscreen... Basically I was wondering what the signal format was so that if at all possible that I could output a different unit to dosplay on it. So for example I would be able to display the Mac output on the touchscreen. And vice versa if I would be able to take the output of the car computer unit that drives the screen and be able to either use a second display on it by tapping into the signal and connecting it to some input source (capture card or the like) and display it in a secondary window within the operating system on the mac. Is this at all possible? Or make a toggle circuit to switch from the display of the regular car operating system, or the Mac operating system... If it's a huge convoluted blah blah I don't know if I am super serious about this but if it's some sort of semi generic sygnal format that I could tap into and would be able to do this with no major interfacing and stuff... I may think about doing it. Would be kinda neat to somehow integrate new with old systems. Now getting the touch sensitivity to work in the Mac OS... hahaha Any thoughts? Thanks Chris