Derekw66

Members
  • Content Count

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About Derekw66

  • Rank
    Newbie

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I did a complete flush of all appropriate components and added a few oz of pag due to the compressor already having the correct amount for it, in it.
  2. Pretty straightforward actually, I replaced the dryer, expansion valve and compressor, including replacing all o-rings. Flushed the evaporator, hoses and condenser. Put it under vacuum overnight and added 34-36oz of refrigerant. Got it blowing 38-39 degrees tonight. Also, fyi, the lower fitting closest to the compressor is the low side. Both ac valves on my v6 were the same size and neither one was marked. My biggest headache was the different 134 bottles, some are the puncture style, some are self sealing, some have their own nozzles.
  3. Does anyone know which port is the high and low? There is no labeling and the hoses are about the same size. I’m in the process of converting the system to 134 but can’t tell which is which. The shop manual doesn’t specify either. To be clear, it’s a 91 Chrysler TC Maserati with the v6. Thanks in advance.
  4. I wish I could help slowing the pump, but be careful with the pump fuse on the right fender well, my 30amp melted through the fusebox and nearly set my car on fire after running for a few mins while bleeding the rear calipers.
  5. I would do a parasitic voltage drop test on your TC. I had the luxury of knowing which fuse melted, kinda easy to spot, and after seeing my battery was more than 10 years old, I,m Confident my problem is sorted. No issues since my last post.
  6. Well, I did a parasitic drop test on the system and found nothing. My battery is at least 10 years old so I may just get a new one for good measure. It may just nothold a charge very well anymore. As for the abs fuse melting, I think it may be attributed to when I bled the rear brakes during my system flush two days prior to having the melted circuit. In order to bleed the rear brakes (for those that don’t know) the abs has to be running constantly to push the fluid out. I don’t think it had ever been done.
  7. I'll do all of these recommendations and report back. Heading to Indy for the weekend but I'll check back next week with some positive results hopefully. Thank you for the tips gtuys.
  8. So, any help anyone can offer. I am new to the group but have had my TC for quite some time. Recently my ABS light and brake light on and I had no power brakes. Upon inspecting the fuse box for the ABS, the 30 amp fuse was melted, as well as the fuse box. The accumulator is relatively new and does not run for more than 25 to 35 seconds so I can’t imagine it being the culprit. Does anybody have an idea as to why that wire got/gets so hot? Also, it’s worth noting my battery goes dead within two days but I can’t see the drain anywhere. I’ll add some pics of my findings. Thank you in advance.