Perry Garner

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Everything posted by Perry Garner

  1. Hey Lewis, thanks a bunch for the info---the drivers side came out normally---however, the passenger side decided to crumble. can you please post a source for the brass replacements? thanks
  2. WOW , very helpful --We knew it was something different but never expected this ---thanks a ton.
  3. thanks for the input, I/we are familiar with all 3 of those, unfortunately, none are present---we have pushed in the escutcheon as far as we can and there is no clip or pin. i've searched until I can't see straight and can't find anything specific on these, I'm hoping someone on here will have some personal experience with them. thanks
  4. Hey gang, My buddy has a '29 essex that he will be doing some interior work to, we're trying to get the interior door latch handles off so we can pull the door panels. we can't find any clips or pins anywhere and don't see anything obvious that will help. if anyone has any experience pulling these off please chime in, also, pictures would be helpful. thanks,
  5. I'll see if I can get one, the problem is the tag has some corrosion on it and I'm not sure how legible it is.
  6. thanks, I checked and the engine number does start with a "U", is there any way to tell if it's the original for sure?
  7. Hey guys, I'm trying to help out a buddy who has a 1929 Plymouth 2 door sedan for sale, the car is in very good condition and mostly original. it starts and moves on it's own but will need some brake work to be usable. it still has what we believe is the original motor and trans in it. I don't think the upholstery is original but I'm pretty sure the headliner is, the roof looks pretty new and in great shape. he bought it to use as a start to a hot rod but would rather not cut up great mostly rust free car. he's asking $9500.00 OBO for it and it's located in Chesapeake Va. I can find out pretty much any information you desire or I can put you in contact with him about it.
  8. here is a picture of an instrument cluster that is identical to his. thanks,
  9. Hey Guys, A good friend of mine just picked up a nice '29 essex "super six" complete car, it's in decent shape for it's age but it's missing the amp gauge from the cluster. does anyone have one they'd like to sell? please let me know as I'm trying to help him locate one thanks.
  10. Hey guys, does anyone know where I can find any information about my '29 Nash, I'm looking for dimensions mainly such as head room, width, length ----that kind of stuff also, how does the 2 door body compare to the Ford model A body of the same type? thanks,
  11. Hey All, I've got a really good friend of mine that is selling his custom built '63 C-10 --- I know this truck very well and no corners were cut on this build.
  12. Hey guys, I've got a couple parts that were going to go on my '54 Chieftain but I sold the car before they got installed. shipping is NOT included but can be arranged. I'll be going down to Charlotte "spring auto fair" and can bring the bumper with me if we make a deal prior to the trip. 1. perfect condition rear bumper fresh from the chrome shop ----$400.00 2. near mint lighted hood ornament --$300.00 3. rebuilt Jaeger clock ---$50.00 4. excellent condition hood spear (passenger side) -- could use a little polishing but otherwise in good shape ---$25.00 if interested please contact me through my email ( --- thanks
  13. Hey gang, well, I started cutting out the bad parts of the floor pans so I can patch them and as things usually go, there was way more rot than I expected so this is what I ended up with. by the time I got done cutting things out I figured it would be easier and better to just replace everything. and, since I can not find anyone who sells floor pans for the car I'm going to have to make my own. this is a blessing in disguise as it will give me the chance to build the floor like I want them and get some practice with the new bead roller. let the fun begin.
  14. Thanks Ben, as for the engine, it's a 454 ---and yes I know, should have kept it Buick but finding a 455 around these parts is next to impossible, besides I KNOW this thing runs and drives great as I was able to test it prior to pulling it from the vehicle.
  15. Hey gang, I know it's been a while since I updated my project but rest assured I HAVE been busy in it. I'v spent some time waiting for parts to arrive which worked as a domino affect, I couldn't order one part until l got the previous one bought and installed and so on and so on. I found a rear end for the car that was close enough in width to make the use of wheel adapters possible (needed to change the lug pattern anyway, once I got the correct adapters installed I was able the put the rear under the car and measure for the triangulated 4 link kit, then I had to wait for that to show up and get it installed so I could order my coil over shocks (still waiting for them), I made some temporary supports to take their place to check ride height. while I was waiting for those parts to show up I went ahead and ordered a set of stainless headers for the big block. I also spent a bunch of time stripping out the rest of the car including all the door hardware, seats, dash and wiring harness which made it MUCH easier to remove and clean up all the old sound deadener under the dash. I still need to clean the roof of that junk but it's just a bit of work to get it off. next I'll be cutting out and replacing all the rotted metal on the body (which will take a while).
  16. Hey guys, Time for another update, got the engine mount parts in the other day so I was able to get the mounts installed and the motor positioned in it's permanent home. I think it fits really well and should have plenty of room for accessories and maintenance. I still need to fabricate the trans mount but that should be relatively easy compared to some of the other fab work that is needed. I'm going tomorrow to pick up another rear end for the car as I can no longer use the "torque tube" set up. it's quite a bit newer and should be a cake walk to convert to disk brakes. I need to get it in place and start mocking up the triangulated 4 link set up for it, I'm still undecided if I'm going to run air bags or just some good coil over shocks. either way, I'll make it work.
  17. Hey Gang, I'm not sure if anyone is following this build but I'm gonna keep on posting as it helps me document the process for myself (or future buyers). I got the back up on the jack stands and pulled the original rear end out of the car, then I set up a pair of wheels and tires a friend loaned me just to see if I like the look. I actually love the way they fill the wheel wells up and they just barely fit between the inner and outer body panels, I think if I roll the fender lip they will fit without a problem. they have maybe 1/2" on each side of the tire so keeping the new rear end centered will be critical, can anyone say triangulated 4 link? the tires are 10.5" wide but look great from the back. I'm still considering going back with the Coaker wide white radials as an alternative but honestly, right now I'm leaning towards the black walls. I also had time to get the motor hanging in the approximate location that it will live, I did have to cut a bit of trans tunnel out for the TH-400 to fit but not as much as I expected. I'm currently waiting for the new "U" style motor mount that bolts to the front of the block and the rubber biscuits to come in tomorrow so I can get the motor installed in it's exact position, then I'll make the trans mount and cross member. I was able to slide the motor back 8 of the 10 inches it needed to make it look right in relation to the firewall. it also looks like a set of center dump block huger headers will just squeak past the frame and suspension.
  18. Hey Ben, my first step was to get the frame up on jack stands and make sure it was level front to back and side to side, then I started pulling measurements and doing a sketch on a white board I have in the garage, I also made some center line marks on the floor for the center line of the wheels, I also measured the spindle height off the floor with the suspension in "full droop", normally I would have measured original ride height and then subtracted the amount of drop I wanted but in this case the car had already been WAY OVER CHOPPED so I couldn't do that. I figured that with the suspension in full droop on both frames would eliminate any drop issues. actually it worked out really well that the new frame rails slid all the way into the old frame, all I had to do was clearance the cross braces that run between the inner and outer frame rails, once it was slid in place the spindle height ended up exactly the same as the originals. I put some wheels on it and dropped it on the ground this morning and it sits pretty high but I have not installed the BIG BLOCK or trans yet so I expect it will settle down to just about perfect, I hope to install air bags anyway so I should be able to get the ride height perfect without too much effort.
  19. thanks for moving this Matt. well, I've made a bit more forward progress on the car since my last updat. I got the front sub frame installed and somewhat welded in, I still have a bunch of finish welding to do but I'm gonna wait till I get the body off the frame so I can spin it around and get to the welds properly. I also still have some gusseting to take care of at the same time. I was also able to get the front sheet metal temporarily installed so I could get the core support mount fab'd and installed, plus I wanted to verify wheel alignment in the fender wells. looks great to me. here's some pics of my latest progress, in these pics you'll notice the inner frame rails are not connected to the new frame, that has been done and now the new frame is welded in on both sides and across the top, I still need to close up the bottom and weld that in but that will be done when I flip the frame.
  20. Hey Gary, if you want I can get the exact gear number for you if you need it? I may be able to get it up as far as Bloomsburg Pa. for you, I have a friend who's family lives up there and will be down here in about 3 weeks, then going home and should be back up there near the end of October. shoot me a Private message and we can probably figure out a number that works for both of us. I probably won't have it pulled for a couple weeks so the above timing works good for me if it does for you ???
  21. Hey GDMN852, where are you located? I will have a complete rear end out of my '41 century for sale soon, I'm going with a more traditional drive train in my rest-mod, it will be complete from drum to drum and all the way to the end of the torque tube. I haven't pulled the cover to get the exact gearing yet but I counted it with the "turn the wheel and watch the shaft" method and it's somewhere around the 4.xx:1 area. unfortunately, I cannot attest to it's condition as I never drove the car with the exception of onto the trailer and then into the garage but it moved fine under it's own power.
  22. Thanks Ben, I'll have to check the rear end a little closer to see what it is. I can understand the "keeping the original" issue, there are some cars that I'd never think about modifying, but I don't think this one warrants that, it was already modified when I got it and the way I think about it is this: in the condition it's in, it would cost so much to "restore" that it doesn't make since to do it, it's not a highly desirable car so even if it were done in a concourse way, you would just be throwing money away. so, it's either have someone spend some money and "resto-mod" it or let it sit and rot away, I'd rather save it and get it to a state that is a bit more saleable down the road. let's face it, the market for a 4 door restored Buick isn't that big. by the way, the motor and tranny have already been spoken for. I'll be getting them ready to ship this weekend and early next week. Perry