Ben Perfitt

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About Ben Perfitt

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    Mason Michigan

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  1. This, right ⬆️, is a million dollars worth of suggestion. Of all the people I’ve had to train in my 33 years in the workforce I can think of 5, maybe 6, people even capable of that. Being taught. Setting their ego aside long enough to learn. You can’t teach someone anything when they are busy knowing everything already. Just human nature... People come in with thin skin and think they have to prove something — and I’m not talking about younger people. It’s the older ones that are worst - 35 and over. Never succeeded training one of those. Ever. Most people end up teaching themselves. (Of course I know this because I’m afflicted with that same human nature too — you want to see how NOT to do something just read through some of the topics I’ve posted on this forum. They all started with some horrendous debacle.)
  2. Well, maybe the illustration I saw showing natural wood wasn’t lying after all. Beautiful. That does look factory. Likely many options were available. Glad I don’t have to make the decision. 🙂
  3. This is a good thread. I like it when people explain why they came to the decisions they did when making choices in a restoration. It would be nice to know what the factory finish was on your 1931 Series 60. Like you, I am guessing that they were black. The only reference I have is the ‘70 Years of Buick’ book by George Dammann, and of course it doesn’t really tell us. It shows a photograph of a restored one in the 1970’s with natural wood wheels, which doesn’t mean a thing because that’s the way people were restoring them all then. It also has a factory illustration of a 60 coupe which also appears to show natural wood — but I have found nothing more unreliable than factory illustrations (brochures, ads., etc.) from this era. The artists took extreme liberties — exaggerating the length of the hood and fenders, making the wheels appear a little larger... Filling in more room under the fenders. Crud like that. There is a reason they used illustrations and not photographs. I like your car — a lot. That sedan has perfect proportions, and just the right amount of chrome (radiator, headlamps, cowl band, and small hubcaps) to show it all off while not distracting your eyes from its overall proportions. It is not over-restored. I like the black artillery wheels. I like that it escaped the addition of sidemount fenders. There’s nothing really mucking it up. My favorite cars are 1928-9 Cadillacs (and will probably never own one). But your Buick actually has much nicer proportions. The Cadillac had a 140” wheelbase - that’s a lot of wheelbase to cover. Have you ever seen a 28/9 Cadillac sedan without sidemount fenders? They look like hell. You mentioned the tires were too small. What size are they? What size does the parts-book for your model call for? You could go up one size to oversize. That would fill in a little more space under the fenders. My own car has natural unpainted wood wheels. But it came out of the factory with all-white tires on black painted wood wheels. It has clincher rims which means it’s limited to 30x3 1/2” (Model T Ford) tires. What I did not know was 30x3 1/2” clincher tires are now manufactured ‘oversize’ and are roughly the same dimensions as the 31x4” clincher tires Buick called for in 1918. I had been considering changing to straight-side rims to go to larger tires. I have to replace the tires (2 of them might be older than me) and haven’t decided what to do yet. Since they are available, I’ve considered going with all-white tires. If I did that I’d have to paint the wood wheels black (setting it back to factory) because I’ve seen 1917/18 Buick’s with 30x3 1/2 all-white tires on natural wood wheels and they look like cr*p. Terrible. Throws it all off. At this point it would be a difficult decision to paint over those wood wheels because they have gorgeous patina only possible from wood stripped and finished 50 years ago. They also match the wood steering wheel exactly. If I painted them and changed my mind they’d have to be stripped again — losing that match. Pictured below is a very famous car, a 1909 Oldsmobile Model Z — the only one in the world. I don’t know when it was restored, but the upper picture is from the early 1970’s. As you can see it has natural unpainted wood wheels. That is not how it came out of the Lansing factory. I know why they did it too — the same reason mine were left unpainted in 1968. During restoration the wood was stripped or the wheels rebuilt and the natural wood was just so beautiful it was a shame to cover it all up. Eventually though, the varnish (or whatever the seal coat was) needed to be refinished and the decision was made to repaint them per the factory (lower photo below). I prefer factory. It’s your car. If you strip or blast the wheels, do 2 and put them back on the car. See what they look like on it. Do they enhance the car or do they distract from its proportions? Take photographs. Post them here. Little decisions like this can be quite a lot of fun. There aren’t too many cars with proportions as nice as that.... Good luck and have fun, Ben P.
  4. Hooray! Some cars choose their owners... He will be enjoying his youth — and heck, he just gained 10 years by not having to restore it. I didn’t ask how many years you spent on the restoration Eric. But I figure it would’ve taken me 5-6yrs even not doing the actual work - just farming it out and reassembling everything. It then would have taken at least 4yrs. of all my disposable income to pay for it all. At least. 🙂
  5. Very finely restored car — still listed on CL. Weather has turned in Michigan. Cash talks.
  6. To my untrained eyes this looks like it’s to a 1917 Buick 6 cyl., but am confused by a couple of things that seem backwards. @Terry Wiegand does this look like your carb?
  7. Well, I can’t help you directly, but maybe highlighting it will attract someone who can identify it... This one you have labeled #1013 - at 1st glance I thought it was a match to the model “E” Marvel Carb. in my 1918 Buick E-35 (4cyl). It is not a match as there is a difference in the area of the choker valve where the hot air tube attaches. (See photo from 1918 Buick E-35 parts-book) Casting numbers don’t mean anything to me - and I’ve yet to find a reliable list. The one list I found online that purports to identify my model does in fact not. #1013 is definitely a Marvel carb., possibly earlier than 1918. Good luck
  8. Say Morgan, I went back and watched some of your YouTube videos and pictures on old posts — what were those 80 y.o. tires anyway? Couldn’t really zoom in on anything. Any markings left on them? Were they Goodrich? Would be interesting to know. Just don’t see stuff like that anymore (and I know I didn’t pay much attention when I did). Oh - Holy cow, read the sign on this truck⬇️ http://www.detroiturbex.com/content/industry/uniroyal/index.html
  9. (This particular post will be deleted once work is preformed.) Alright, there’s a lot to do here and it’ll probably take me right up to spring. Will post updates on what is done and found. - Morgan, yeah, those tires. I’ve gone to local shows for years and always noticed more than a few impeccably kept cars that folks have obviously put a lot of work into - then you get up close and they’ve got shoddy old tires on them. Yellowed old whitewalls, cracks, the whole 9 yards.... and you think, “WHAT are they thinking?!” So what happened was... My brother came by one day and I just happened to have the car running a little better than normal, I had already driven a few laps around the back 5 acres, and I hollered, “Come on, follow me. Let’s try her out on the road!” That didn’t go. So. Well... and he griped at me for DAYS after. “Wobble...”FOAM...” “SMOKE!” ”...coming out”. (I don’t really listen to him when his arms start flying around the air.) Then a week or two later my sister comes by... I said, “Come on, follow me!” We get back and she says, “Every time you stopped there was this BLACK SMOKE that came out from under the engine! Is your exhaust hooked up?!” I said, “It’s hooked up. The engine just ‘breathes’ a little bit.” She gave me this look that a person gets once in their life — from their mother. After that I found the broken cotter pin in the oilpan. No, those tires, while they have no visible cracks and seem soft and pliable, Olympic “Made in Australia” were last made in the early 70s. They certainly did contribute to the terrible ride. Though like Grimy said best, the lubrication needs of a teens car compared with a 30s or even 20s car are astounding. I doubtlessly missed more than a few clogs and a few other things. - Foam, funny thing with that foam: I drained and flushed the green anti-freeze out and it simply disappeared. Magic! - Heaters? Naw. Already got a couple of them. (Work pretty well too.)
  10. Terry, Well, my tire gauge just told me my memory was wrong - they are at 65psi and not 55, and they could have lost a bit since June - it’s currently 40 degrees F. up here in MI. These are clincher tires, which get a little scarier too. Don’t need them moving off the rims. I’ll go with whatever Coker recommends when I replace the (possibly) 46-50 year old tires this winter. The pressure chart pictured below is from a 1917 book called ‘The Modern Gasoline Automobile’. Don’t know what, if anything, is accurate, but it surely couldn’t be applicable to the current materials and construction of the reproduction tires available today. The same book only mentions ‘balance’ in reference to how some manufacturers tried to construct the actual tire then. Apparently, there was no concept of balancing a tire and wheel on the car. You’re right, I’ll need to look into how to do that. Another thing I did not mention: When I took one of those rough little rides in the car one of my brothers was behind me. We stopped at one point and he came up and said, “Man, your left front tire — there’s something wrong with that! It wobbles all over the place.” It was covered in mud so I figured he was mostly seeing an optical illusion from that, but I said, “That’s a 101 yr old wood wheel. There was never a way to balance THAT.” My concern then was on the roughness of the ride and all the foam coming out of the radiator overflow. Didn’t even notice all the BLACK smoke belching out through the crankcase then. Good grief, you know, that could have been far more of a wild ride than I was aware of at the time. Probably came closer to actual death in the short 6-7miles I made it in on those tires in this car than my imagination had me on that corn planter! Thanks, Ben P.
  11. Glad you mentioned this, I hadn’t picked up on that and assumed the zerks would be permanent. That’s just what I’ll do. Thank you! Ben P.
  12. Well, it looks like my boredom has come to a sudden and abrupt end - there is a LOT to do even when the engine is out for a rebuild. - Grimy, I had the tires at 55psi, and I don’t remember how I thought that was specified. There’s no max. pressure written on them. I must have looked it up online. I only drove it a total of 6 or 7 miles before discovering the reason the engine needed to be rebuilt, but I remember being very concerned about driving it at all with those tires. Two of them were Olympic, “Made in Australia”, which could well be older than me. The only mention of them online was on the MTFCA forum, and several people thought they were last produced in the early 70’s. This little E-35 was restored by a purist, so I only have grease cups which I did fill with new grease and turn every use. I did not remove all the old grease or check for clogs. I read a lot on this forum about switching to zerks or Alemites and dismissed it out of hand — the car was ‘correct’, why mess with that now? The only thing I changed on it was I plugged and disconnected the flexible metal tube (which I actually can’t find in the parts-book) running between the exhaust and the carb. heat jacket. The noise and soot blatting out of it was incredible. I will be doing that now. - Hugh, there are no unused holes on the frame. I would not be opposed to adding snubbers at this point. Worth looking into - or shocks of some type. I only weigh 140lbs., but I jumped up and down on the front and rear of the running boards this am. the best I could — not much travel in the springs, and a heck of a lot of squeak and groan. It’s a good thing I only made it 6 or 7 miles! I didn’t notice any binding or resistance in the steering, but do recall quite a lot of noise. Not knowing what ‘normal’ might sound like at the time, this did not concern me at all. Looks like I’ll be going through the steering box as well. Couldn’t hurt when the engine is out anyway. People who know me are sick of my stupid little stories (and usually start to walk away when one starts), but I’ll use this excuse to tell one here: The only thing I could compare taking this car out in the road with was a horse-drawn corn planter (no suspension at all). My Grandfather had all kinds of horse-drawn farm equipment, and my Dad had rigged up a 2-row corn planter to pull behind an old tractor. My job, at 6 or 7, was to sit on the cast iron seat and raise and lower the planting boom at the end of the rows. I must have gotten bored, because my big fidgety foot got caught in the one moving gear (which was powered off the moving wheels to meter out the corn) on the whole thing. That gear only turned 1 notch every 14 inches or so. Slowly I began running out of room to curl my toes into that shoe. I had this vision of being pulled through the thing and coming out the other end like ground sausage. So I started screaming, and my Dad — only in his 20’s — was already deaf enough he couldn’t even hear me over the noise of the tractor. I remember praying: “Please God, just make my heart stop. I don’t want to feel any of this.” Finally, he came to the end of the row and idled the tractor down and heard me. He had to cut the shoe off me to get it out. I had run out of room. Looking back, it wouldn’t’ve hurt me at all — that wheel would’ve just dragged when it met the resistance of my foot, but I didn’t know that then. That was the last time I ever complained about oversized hand-me-down shoes too. At anyrate, yeah, driving this car down the road, it rode a lot like that. It was about as smooth as I imagine that cast-iron rig could have been, and was almost as scary. Though this time I didn’t wet my pants.... Boy, that was one long and uncomfortable walk back to the house through the sandy fields. Enough, Thanks all! Ben P. (Picture below came from the Wisconsin Historical Society website. Not very clear, but that’s exactly the type of corn planter I thought was going to kill me.)
  13. I’ve watched this 10 times — who was squealing tires when you disappeared over the hill the first time? P.S. That was some mighty fine shifting you did too. When I got this E-35 I had only ever driven a stick, but this was the first non-synchronized stick I had ever driven. Holy cow! I don’t know how anyone learned to drive one of these cars when they were new. The 1st time I tried to shift into 2nd *claaash* *grrrind*. I kept backing off and backing off the throttle, double clutch - try again, and pretty soon I was going too slow for 2nd. It took about a mile to get it into 3d. Also learned, unlike any other manual I’ve ever had, this tiny little 4cyl really won’t let me start from a stop in 2nd. Had a Studebaker that could (if there was zero slope) start off in 3d - it groaned a little but it would let you do it. Then again, I only ever drove about 6-7 miles in the ‘18. So that lesson will be waiting for me when I get the rebuilt engine back....
  14. Yup, Matt, it looks like between you and Bloo we got our answer already. Bound or rusted springs. My first thought was, “Boy, I knew they built this thing for the sandy two-track roads of the time, but I didn’t know it would be so rough on a modern hard-surface road.” I figured that’s just how it was. The only thing that made me ask (and boy am I glad I did) was I knew for a fact the Model T guys drive around these same roads at 35-40mph no problem. Seriously,, at 20-22mph I thought the thing was going to blow apart. Thanks guys!
  15. Wow Bloo, There’s a lot in that, but I didn’t know the 30x3 1/2” were actually 31”. Sure enough, they are. Also, now that you mention it, it did not occur to me to check for anything binding up. It was rough enough that could well have been the case. At 20mph (according to a gps app on my phone) my bones were definitely rattling. Thank you! Ben P.