Ben P.

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About Ben P.

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    Mason Michigan

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  1. I know one thing for sure: No SUV or trucklett can do ⬇️. (32mpg. average. Not city, not highway - average. Out of my 2018 LaCrosse, which incidentally has the same 310hp. V-6 used in Cadillac SUV’s — none of which can do this OR come close to the LaCrosse’s 5.5 sec. 0 to 60.) Of course this was never advertised by the company. But this horse has already been beat to death in many other threads.... Ben P.
  2. Vince, C. Carl just hit the key here: ‘maximum exposure’, which is exactly what this shell needs - it is worth saving. I have in mind a particular 1952 hardtop coupe I once owned that was 100% complete. Mechanically it was just flawless. Never required an engine rebuild, just tune ups. But the body had been exposed to Michigan weather and just wasn’t worth restoration. I kept that car for 30 years not really knowing what to do with it. What I would have given to find a body shell for it in the condition of the one you’ve got. In 30 years one never turned up. Think they made just 3,100 of that model. THAT’S the buyer you are looking for. Hope you take Carl’s advice. Wish I still owned that car.... Ben P.
  3. P.S. If anyone spots this ugly old thing bombing around Ionia MI — I want that car BACK. The nitwit I gave it to turned around and sold it for, “about what you paid for that NOS fender” (the very last one) to some guy, “I think his name was PETE”. Didn’t even bother to get his name.... Still looks pretty much like this. Body not worth restoring. Exposed to MI weather. Built during Korean War (everything was THIN). Brush your hand along the chrome it’ll cut your skin like a cheese-grater. Was told it was pitting on the dealer’s lots in ‘52. Finder’s fee gladly paid (not as much as that NOS fender)....
  4. For my own future reference: This past June I removed the pistons from the bottom, inspected the damage, and decided to ship the entire engine to a rebuilder in CT. For a number of reasons I decided to have a local shop pull and ship the engine rather than do that myself. Dropped the car off to them Dec. 2nd. Fully expected to return in a few days to retrieve the engineless car and take it home assuming they’d need the space. Nope. What I was told but didn’t understand was - they had made space for the car in its own area at the back of the shop. All the work will be done in one room quarantined from the rest of the shop by one person who has not done any other kind of work in his entire life. Anything that needs to be farmed out - they deliver personally to shops they know and have dealt with in the past. No part will be taken to any of the Model T+A Ford shops infesting the mid-west. No part will undergo any modern cleaning process. This has worked out far better than I could have dreamed. I owned a 1952 Studebaker for just over 30 years. what I learned from that car is: This situation, for me, is by far the cheapest and safest way out. I know exactly where my skills are and what I can afford to get away with. Though I do feel a little ‘out of the action’.... The list of stuff I planned on attending to while the engine was being rebuilt will just have to wait. That’s just all there is to it.
  5. You’re right Morgan, they don’t do that opposing thing like the 6. Did find the answer though buried in the 1922 service manual (Buick didn’t bother making a service manual prior to that). Referencing the 4 cyl. model it indicated the con-rods should face the radiator on the casting-numbered side — which would have the cotter pin towards the radiator like my memory had it. *leaving this here in case I forget again* Good grief.
  6. Preparing to have this engine pulled and shipped to the rebuilder, but I have to sheepishly ask: Does anyone know which direction the pistons orientate into the cylinders? The picture below was taken from under the car. The wrist pin is perpendicular to the radiator. The brassy looking spot on the left end of the wrist pin is a cotter pin — my memory has this cotter pin facing the radiator and away from the firewall. Is this correct? There are no arrows cast into the pistons or rods. (Pictures are worthless memory aids if you can’t remember which way you were facing when you took them. I have no memory of which direction I slid under the car that day.) Mild anxiety - probably more related to the potential cost of all this.... Thanks, Ben P.
  7. This car still exists in a museum in Norway - what happened to the other two? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rMgxEN3Kfg
  8. Historic 9 minute film of the founder of Cadillac Motor Car Company with his son and grandson with a 1906 Cadillac - from the University of South Carolina archives. This is an extremely interesting film taken taken January 22 1931, however, it is actually just a series of outtakes — WHERE is the finished product? (Yes, they’re pulling the car on a rope.) http://dvr-streaming.mirc.sc.edu/MVTN_8-902_Acc1.mp4?epik=dj0yJnU9d01OS3hBQXpsZWR1dHdpSVZEWkRMX1BIY2pRdXNQQ0wmbj1NQmh4ai10N195YlVHcHZ4aUJhT3hRJm09MyZ0PUFBQUFBRjNpOFRJ
  9. N O T M I N E N O T M I N E N O T M I N E ‘bring bag of cash.’ - You have to see this guy’s garage.... https://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/d/brighton-1926-reo-speed-wagon/7028624808.html
  10. Was able to find this illustration out of a reprint of this 1917 publication. While this references ‘racing tires’, that was not their only application, and they seemed to have been called different things by different manufacturers — ‘security bolts’, ‘staybolts’, and ‘tire locks’ as mentioned.in the 2012 thread.
  11. I think Greg is onto something with the safety bolts, and this is also echoed in this older thread linked below. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/191959-multiple-tire-valve-stems/
  12. Yup, https://wrenchwiki.com/home/buffum-tool-company/ https://www.pcgenweb.com/pcgs/bios/buffum.htm
  13. This has already been commented on, but I have to raise my hand and pipe up.... This one point can’t be stressed enough. Considering myself ‘experienced’ because I’d been messing with ‘old’ (1950’s-60’s) cars for over 30 years I recently set out to re-commission a very well restored 1918 touring car after just 10 yrs. storage. I topped off all the grease cups and gave them a few turns and figured that was enough. Yeah — it was enough to think the car’s body was going to blow apart and I was going to die at any speed above 20-22mph. It was the springs. Of course, I couldn’t even figure out the problem on my own and actually assumed that’s the way cars of the period drove. It was literally an afterthought when I thought to pose a question on improving drivability on this forum. (Your answers were instant — thank you all.) Yes, the springs must be disassembled and lubed!
  14. N O T M I N E - Way above my priceline, but too interesting not to share. https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/d/ionia-1917-ford-model-trailer/7023511766.html
  15. Not me — mine took off with the Jesus rings. (And I really had no idea which way they went.)