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Grant Z

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Posts posted by Grant Z

  1. 9 hours ago, 40 66S CENTURY said:

    hi grant! skip n karen boyer will attend- registered the 1940 90 but its in the shop getting a new motor/trans and 80 series rear gears- backup plan is: we  registered the 65 Wildcat convert. Love to meet you after all these years

     

    Hi Skip (and Karen), I sure do look forward to meeting you both.

     

    I had been meaning to let you know I have a set of your engine-turned dash panels that I bought from Richard Mann last year. They are oiled and wrapped in clear wrap so I must get onto getting them cleaned & clear-coated.

     

    Sincere thanks for letting me know you will be at the event.

     

     

  2. 7 hours ago, Century Eight said:

    Grant , I have enjoyed seeing some of your posts. I plan to be there but without a car. This chapter should put on a very fine meet.  They have done it before.  You will enjoy the Auburn Cord Dusenberg Museum, but if you can tweak your schedule, you should look into going to the Gilmore Car Museum as well, just over in Hickory Corners, Michigan.  You would not be disappointed, as both of these museums are some of the best in the country.

    Hi Phil, I look forward to meeting you there. Regarding the Gilmore Car Museum, my flights are booked & paid for so I'm afraid not. I will be going to the Nethercutt Museum when I arrive in LA at the end of my road trip. I expect that to be very special. Previously I've been to the Henry Ford Museum once and Petersen Automotive Museum twice so I can't complain. You can't do everything and I consider myself very fortunate to have seen what I have previously.

     

    I hope I can find you at the Nats. My email is zipcruise@tpg.com.au. I will have a different mobile (cell) number upon landing in the USA so cannot provide.

    • Like 1
  3. 21 hours ago, neil morse said:

     

    Hi Grant:

     

    I hope you will consider a stop in San Francisco on your way to Los Angeles.  I would love to meet you and show you my '41!

     

    Neil

    Hi Neil, many thanks for your kind offer. I would also love to meet you and see your '41. I certainly am traveling through the SF area on my road trip. I will send you a personal message now.

  4. Hi all from Australia, I'm attending the BCA National Meet in Strongsville Ohio July 10-13 and am wondering how many of you might be also attending.

    My buddy & I were a little too late to book into the host hotel so have found a place 5 miles north and will commute in our hire car.

     

    On Monday after the event the event, my mate (buddy) and I will visit the Auburn Cord Duesenberg Museum in Auburn Indiana, return to Cleveland, sleep the night and then part company. I will then fly to Seattle on the West Coast and do a solo 1,400 mile road trip down to Los Angeles visiting mostly 1941 Buick owners (I own 2) I've met over social media plus a couple of long-term car friends. I will be away from home (plus my wife & dog) for nearly a month. It will be my 6th time to mainland USA.

     

    I can't wait!

    • Like 2
  5. Very nice Adam! I have a friend with a 1918 Buick Roadster and is finishing of his 1910 Roadster at the moment. In speaking with him, I can see that these early cars are a "different beast" indeed. I hope you have much enjoyment from the car.

    PS: your Pierce-Arrow looks magnificent.

    • Like 1
  6. On 1/5/2024 at 6:12 AM, kgreen said:

    I think I see a second question that also interests me.  How to visually tell the differences between the 1941 50 and 70 series cars.  The 1940 models seem easier for me to differentiate, are there key difference in the '41?

    I assume you can tell from the above answers that the simplest way is the hood vents. 4 for the small engine cars (Specials & Supers), 5 vents for the big engine cars (Century, Roadmaster & Limited).

    • Like 2
  7. On 1/4/2024 at 12:43 PM, neil morse said:

    Grant, your question is confusing because in your example you have picked two models -- 56C and 76C -- which both had the C body.  Yes, the bodies in those two models are the same from the windshield back.  The text you posted pretty much sums it up.  The Special used either the A or B body.  The Century used the B body.  The Super and the Roadmaster used the C body. 

     

    As far as what the differences are between the B and C bodies, if you do an image search on Google for "41 Buick Special" or "Century," and compare the images to a search for "41 Buick Super" or "Roadmaster," you will see the differences.  The B body sedan was a six window (with a window behind the rear door) whereas the C body sedan had "blind quarters," i.e. no windows behind the rear doors.  The B body coupes were the "fastback" design, whereas the C body coupes were more conventional five window coupes.  The main innovation of the C body was the elimination of any running boards (either exterior or interior), so that the passenger compartment was significantly wider.

     

    I'm pretty sure I've gotten this all correct, but I'm sure others will chime in if I've made any errors.

     

    I wish you the best of luck with your Roadmaster convertible restoration!  I'm really looking forward to seeing your progress as you move along.

     

    Neil

    Hi Neil, of course you are correct, sorry. I got myself confused. I now realise that the 56C & 76C both would be identical from the windscreen back.

     

    Sorry, I'm a slow learner!😩

     

    An extra question. Would it be fair to say that to compare a 1941 model 44 (A-body - as in my Series-A Special Business Coupe), with a 1941 76S (C-body Roadmaster Sport Coupe), there would be no 2 panels on the car that are the same, also the chassis, engine & transmission are also different, even though they are both 1941 Buicks? If so I find this astounding!

  8. As I have only owned Buicks for a mere 5 years, I'm still trying to work out the differences between both B & C-Bodied cars.

     

    I have & drive a 1941 Series-A Special Business Coupe, and I've learnt that this uses the same Fisher body as the 1941 Chevy.

     

    But now that I own (and am restoring) a 1941 Roadmaster 76C, I'm trying to find out what are the differences in the bodies of say a 56S & a 76S. Apart from the longer chassis & front sheet metal (due to the small & large engine series used), are the bodies (windscreen to rear of car) different in any way? I assume they must be or there wouldn't be both a B-body & a C-body.

     

    The image below is the best information I have found so far but still doesn't seem to answer my specific question regarding the B-body & C-body differences.

    AB&C Body Explanation.jpg

  9. Was there an explosion in a shaving foam factory? What is that white stuff?

     

    I live in Adelaide, South Australia where we get Mediterranean weather (think California). I often take my '41 Buick out for a cruise mid-Winter as we often get dry days. Adelaide's average maximum temperature is around 15 °C (59 °F) and the average minimum around 8 °C (46°F). Note though that the mercury rarely drops below freezing or rises above 19 °C (66 °F). Frosts are common in the valleys of the Adelaide Hills, but rare elsewhere.

     

    Are you feeling sorry for me yet?

     

    Oh I forgot, we are now heading in Summer.

    • Like 2
    • Haha 3
  10. On 11/7/2023 at 1:49 AM, kgreen said:

    That does lead to a question about the differential housing cover.

     

    What orientation should the differential cover be when in place?  I've seen the drain  placed in the 5:00 position on a car maintained by a mechanic for whom I have remendouse respect.  He says that gives the axle housing enough oil to keep the axle shaft bearing lubricated.  But I've seen plently of coveres installed at the 6:00 position.  What's the proper install here?

     

    The axle I removed from one parts car has the drain at 6:00.  A borrowed image from a 1954 Buick shows the 5:00 position.  There is no image or text in the 1940 manual to indicate the correct position.

    Hi Ken, for what it's worth, my oil filler plug on the differential housing cover is at the 6.00 position.

    • Like 1
  11. 23 hours ago, kgreen said:

    First up was the dreaded task of driling and tapping the flywheel housing

    Hi Ken, I can't seem to work out why you had to drill & tap this hole in the side of the flywheel housing. Was it not there already?

  12. 3 hours ago, Buicknutty said:

     Grant, mine had the 3.9's, which were the stock ones, and here most had this ratio, though 3.6's were optional. I got a set of 3.4's out of a '55 Century plus I have a recalibrated speedo so I know what speeds I'm going. I did drive it for a while with the 3.9's in it after I got it on the road and it wasn't horrible, but the 3.4's are better. Less engine noise too. It seems to be comfortable driving in the 65-70 MPH range for long distances as I've done that in it. Metric, that's 110 or a bit over.

     My self imposed speed limit is 75 MPH, or about 120 KPH, it's got lots more but I figure that is plenty fast enough.

     I also run wide white radials, Diamondbacks, and they help with the driving experience.

     

     I hope this helps.

    Keith

    Hi Keith, many thanks for your prompt response. I'm not sure what ratio my car has yet but probably 3.9's. I'm getting closer to restoring the torque-tube & differential (plus the engine & trans) so will know soon. 3.4's sound excellent.

     

    I can convert miles to kilometers no problem as have grown up with both. I would also like to use the Diamondback radials. I use Firestone non-radials on my model 44 which is fine but think the Diamondbacks would be a great choice as I've heard they are fabulous.

     

    Thanks again Keith.

  13. 2 hours ago, Buicknutty said:

      As the owner of a '41 Roadmaster which I restored to be a nice driver, with higher speed rear gears from a 50's Buick I cannot recommend them enough. As long as the car is properly sorted out they are great drivers!

    Keith

    Hi Keith, what ratio were in your Roadmaster, and what ratio have you moved to (and from which year)?

     

    Here in Australia, we have many open spaces and I do long miles occasionally (our nearest interstate capital is 500 miles), so I'm very interested in having better mileage in my 41 Roadmaster (under full restoration now).

    • Like 1
  14. This information I posted on my Facebook page (Forty One Buick Roadmaster Build) back on July 20th.
     
    Today something special was delivered to my door. An original rubber cased battery (originally designed to be 6V), but made into a 12V battery for the Roadmaster. Arial Batteries in Melbourne had original unused cases so when I called and asked if they could make a 500 mm long x 100 mm wide rubber case battery, they said “no problem as we have two original unused cases in stock.” Thanks to Jeff Randell (previous owner of the car) who recommended Ariel Batteries to me.
     
    In addition to that my mates Adam & Dennis kindly came over to lift the crankshaft out of the engine block for me (I’m still under strict orders to limit my lifting). This 1060mm long (41.75”) crankshaft weighs 115 lb (52 kg). That’s 17-1/2 lb (8 kg) heavier than the cylinder head that I lifted and blew a disc in my back in late March.
     
    Soon I’ll remove the pistons & connecting rods from the block in preparation to assess the state of the engine prior to reconditioning.
     
    BELOW: This (now 12V) battery is correct visually & in size (500mm long x 90mm wide x 200mm tall) for many cars of the era.
    40.jpg.2a6cd0880602d313c0d485636ecca63c.jpg
    BELOW: The crank-shaft may not look very long, but it is 1060mm in length (that’s 41.75”). It also weighs 115 lbs (52 kg)
    41.jpg.37c521979680fe44a4f6ff5878e59174.jpg
    BELOW: It’s a long time since anybody has seen inside the engine. Bernie Fritshaw (Ontario, Canada) told me the last time he had the engine running was in about 1980. He owned the car from 1978-2014. He was told by the previous owner in New Jersey that the engine had been rebuilt.
    42.jpg.721aeeee62c318c2d902ec87d0694759.jpg
    • Like 5
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