Patrick 1930 Buick

Started prepping the radiator and fuel tank. The radiator was perfect except I will need to resolder the top filler tube. The fuel tank is seriously bent and rusted through. Although I tried to fix it, I thinking if I can’t find a reasonable replacement, I may need to put a fuel cell inside. This would keep the original look and provide a place for the electric fuel pump. This is one of those things the next owner can bring it into compliance and not slow me down. I have another radiator which is seriously in need for repair, but if anyone has nothing, I could part with it. Follow up: Sadly, both radiators are no good and we will have to place an after market radiator to keep the project moving forward.

Do you have any of these parts still?

Jack, I’m working on the same car. Check out Pat’s Buick (https://forums.aaca.org/profile/166004-patrick-1930-buick/).

Installed engine, transmission, attached drive, and brake linkages. My father had made some of the wood components and left them for us to complete and install. Next steps are to complete the cooling, exhaust, fuel, mechanical and minimal electrical.

It looks pretty good. My biggest concern was to over or under bend it.

Yes, I didnt see the email till today. Yes, I have The over-head valve assembly, cylinder block section, valve cover, push-rod cover and intake manifold. They need some work and are rough and it looks like the cylinder block needs repair from a freeze.

Yes, the parts are still available.

Fixing the Drop Axle! After some research, We decided to fix the drop axle. Research suggested we could do it hot or cold. The driver side camber was fine, so we decided to bring the passenger side to be the same or at least close. The wheel obviously leaned out. The axle is mounted and clamped on the engine hoist as close to the fulcrum as possible. The hardest part was to figure out how much of a correction and to monitor the fix while it was hot. We went simple by leveling the axel and using a water filled tube attached to the spindle end. As kids, my father had called the tube with water an Egyptian water level. I felt confident this would have been what he would do since this is his car, his barn, his tubing and his dream. We observed a 3/8 inch required correction at the tip of the spindle. We used a 500K btu propane torch to heat it. With metal plates and sand packed around the axle we made a fire box to focus the heat and protect work area. It took about 6/7 min before one of our aluminum heat shields started to melt, so before it failed, we used the engine hoist to pull it up. The fire box was covered with fiberglass insulation to permit slow cooling.

Im looking for a few parts: brake drum bearing and seal parts: thrust washer front bearing, dust/oil seal for front and rear drums, oil seal retainer parts rear drum. See picks to compare available parts. Tire bolts, nuts and wedges. See Pic. Oil seal fan-belt pully. Im trying to understand how to rebuild the fan oiler. It appears theres a seal near the mounting bracket and I don’t know how to repair or what I can do. It looks like some kind of rope can be wrapped and packed. Has anyone ever restored the fan oiler. any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Current status:

The bolt head height is a little smaller, so I would replace all of them on a wheel to keep it uniform.

You still have these? Do you think they would work with 1930 model 47?

Hi, do you still have any of these parts?

Looks like it to me. I found the engine paint my father had purchased so I went with it.

We have cleaned and painted the engine and wheels. Trying to find the valve cover wing nuts and spark plug cover, any advice?

I think this is a 1928 Buick top end, cylinder block, head, valve cover, pushrod covers. Im working on Pat’s Buick and found these parts which I dont need but want to identify before I dispose of. The cylinder block looks like a crack, so would that be repairable? I will sell or trade for 1930 buick parts: valve cover nuts, spark plug cover, spare tire rim, front axle.

For the wheel hub bolts, model-t had long carriage bolts that can be sourced from https://www.modeltford.com Item Number: RMB-BOLT In a few weeks, look back and I will update this post with a picture. Pictures below

I have a question and looking for advice. If you look at the front right wheel, I think the axle is bent out a bit. Is this something that can be fixed, and how do I get it done? Thanks Follow up Oct 30, 2022 I communicated with Sid Drapal of droppedaxles ( https://droppedaxles.com ) and this is his advice. “The axle can be bent cold if you have a way to hold it down. We [Droppedaxles] bend the axles hot. We [Droppedaxles] heat area to be bent to popsicle orange. Then we bend them. You want to make sure the axle cools as slow as it can.” I am going to prepare for a cold bend and try to correct the camber. While, I prepared for cold bend, I felt a hot bend was safer as the cold forces would have been intense. I used an engine hoist, a 16K cable, some square stock with many c-clamps and a fire-box made of sand and steel plates. A 500K propane torch got it hot as hell. One of my metal plates was aluminum, once it started to drip I had no choice but apply force with the hoist. I used a tube with water to measure the left spindle against the right.

We got the engine running by flipping the intake manifold, putting on a Rochester one barrel and setting the timing. Now I'm looking for timing cover oil seal, valve cover gaskets and pushrod cover gaskets and spark-plug cover plate. Any advice?

Im doing the wheels and may need to replace a few of the carriage bolts when reinstalling the break drums. Does anyone know where I can get the carriage bolts for the inner hub.

Updates

As far as a carb, I’m thinking getting my motor running by flipping the intake manifold and going with a down draft Rochester.

I believe I have the head and short block for the same engine. No crank or cam