Alfonso Montemerlo

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Everything posted by Alfonso Montemerlo

  1. I think that I found the solution. From my donor TC I removed the piece between the turbo and the muffler hose, this is the part that hold the waste gate. I will make the post with the pictures when the I complete the job. Anyway for the last 15 years my first TC (the chopped one) is my backyard, used as flower pot and make my dogs happy around the rear tires, and the dam turbo still on what is left from the motor, just because I don't have the torch and I am not a mechanic.
  2. Finally I have replaced all the vacuum hoses, everything seem to work almost normally. So I decided to share what I have done, let me know if someone can have some suggestion. My next work will be by the turbo, removing the internal waste gate that is lock in the open position, when done I will posted.
  3. Yes, the wastgate flapper is stuck. I removed the two screws at the base of the wastegate diaphragm, and as I apply a little air pressure the rod from the actuator move very strong. To reach the point of contact from the rod actuator and the gate on the turbo is a bear, with the fingers I feel the rust. As there is no room for the hammer, I build a fork to reach the "gate" but the tip of the fork breaks. Next I will try to build an extension on an air impact scraper, and see if the vibration can help, plus the PB Blaster, I am not familiar with the Freeze OFF, I will try too. On my first TC for two weeks I try to remove the turbo from the top and from the bottom with no results, then I chop the car.
  4. Mr. Hemi, I am an old guy too; I drive all my life without the ABS, on snow, ice and rain, just some little pump on the brake, and a safe speed. 15 years ago with my first TC I do the brake conversion, but I removed everything, with your suggestion will be a breeze. Back to the VACUUM / motor surge, the problem is in the turbocharger waste gate flapper, is locked. The waste gate diaphragm that is good, is not able to move the gate. I don't know if there is some magic solution without removing the turbo, do you have any suggestion? Thanks
  5. Thanks, for the confirmation. Now the car just asks for a new gift, the Teves fail, so I will install a LeBaron brake/buster. I don't know if you are familiar with the installation, do I need to remove the rear proportioning valve? from the Mr. Hemi page on the matter seem that I will need only to replace the front hoses and flare the single rear one. I don't like to bother Mr. Hemi as is with the bad virus, I hope that he will be healings soon.
  6. Mr. Reaper1, do you maybe a chance to confirm the J, or better the Y fitting connections? maybe one side to the air box filter, one to the turbo, and one to the speed control. But maybe I am wrong.
  7. Mr. Hemi, I print so many of your replies that my print dried up, and as soon I will found the correct position of each hoses I promise that I will do the layout. Mr. Reaper1, as soon you can verify the hoses in the J, let me know. Yes I believe that from the J, one side goes to the speed control, but from both prints the turbo small fitting goes to the cruise control diaphragm, well, we will see.... for now thanks to everyone.
  8. Just to have more fun, I use to have another TC, and I save a ton of parts, also the plastic plate under the hood with the vacuum diagram, and the connection by the throttle body is different.??????????
  9. Is the picture. Now, reading to all the vacuum related questions and answers on this forum, probably I am the #1001 with this issue. I am surprise that no one of our Gurus posted a complete vacuum/pressure diagram, maybe with blue color all the vacuum, and in red all the pressure. I just throw the ball, see where will go.
  10. Mr. Hemi, can you please suggest how to remove/replace the vacuum actuator that you mentioned above. Thanks
  11. Nope, new hose going from the turbo to to the speed control. The air cleaner box actual connections: 1) Vacuum to quick release valve connected the shut-off-valve 2)All the big 2"hoses are easy to connect. 3) From the valve cover to the air filter cover is Ok. 4) From the turbo to below the air filter/shut off valve is OK. 5) Is where is the problem....one port on the air cleaner, close to the point #1, is with no connection.
  12. I have a 1989 SEC, with the vacuum hoses gones, toasted. I search in the blue service manual, and on the print under the hood, also on a Chrysler 8673/20382 Chilton's manual, and what I found is just controversial from one data to the other. I purchase a bunch of silicon hoses, and copy the print that is under the hood (#4405202), that anyway is not showing all the air filter canister connections. the car start and run, no vibration, the turbo turn on, the auto speed control is not working, and after a few minutes the motor start to surges. Anyone can help with an appropriate diagram? Thanks.
  13. According what I read the Mitsubishi is better; do you know any part # that can flange on the TC? I am afraid to do the rebuild as I don’t have the bench press to do the assembly. Thanks for your response.
  14. I try to restore my TC that is sit for 5 years in the backyard. I replace the fuel tank, fuel pump, filters, oil, coolant, sorted hoses, brake calipers, and now the car start fine with no smoke and no shaking. But the impeller in the turbo is lock. The original Garret 4657733-9002 is impossible to find. I read that Mr. Hemi replaces the unit with the Mitsubishi, but I will like to have more info if anyone can help. Thanks