siddha

I have a 70 in the UK whereabouts are you?

Have you the brake master cylinder? Could you post a picture please?

Thanks for all the help with these. This is the answer to my query regarding Shock Absorbers fitted to my 1930 Chrysler Model 70. The answer provided by Apple Hydraulics. I am assuming that Chrysler might have fitted these to their export models. “Shocks like yours used for a year or two on big cars like Packard or Pierce Arrow or Chrysler (with different arms for every application). This "version 1.0" is replaced with shocks that have plugs on both ends of the body and, in late 1930s with shocks like 1941-49 Cadillac rear (for example, see pictures on https://www.applehydraulicsonline.com under Cadillac). All measurements stayed same (body dimension, spacing between mounting holes).”

This is the answer to my query regarding shock absorbers fitted to my 1930 Chrysler Model 70. The answer provided by Apple Hydraulics. I am assuming that Chrysler might have fitted these to their export models. “Shocks like yours used for a year or two on big cars like Packard or Pierce-Arrow or Chrysler (with different arms for every application). This "version 1.0" is replaced with shocks that have plugs on both ends of the body and, in late 1930s with shocks like 1941-49 Cadillac rear (for example, see pictures on https://www.applehydraulicsonline.com. under Cadillac). All measurements stayed same: body dimension, spacing between mounting holes.”

These shock absorbers are fitted to my 1930 Chrysler model 70 here in the UK. These are pictures of the front right. They are not original equipment however they are on the car and look of the period. Numbered 39579. If I am going to get them renovated I need to know the make and model number. Can anyone help please?

These shock absorbers are fitted to my 1930 Chrysler model 70 here in the UK. These are pictures of the front right. They are not original equipment however they are on the car and look of the period. Numbered 39579 If I am going to get the renovated I need to know the make and model number. Can anyone help please?

Gentlemen, I must thank you all very much for your excellent advice and comments on the problems I seem to be having with the rear axle pinion seal. Everything that has been said has some relevance. I shall be dismantling later this week and reassembling with greater confidence. I am familiar with using very thick oils in veteran (pre-1919) rear axles. In the 1929 Chrysler Handbook it recommends something called ”Fluid Gear Lubricant” I have been using Penrite Straight T140 a rear axle oil that I’ve used in many vintage cars. I will tighten up the nut and see what happens and also check the state of the shaft in greater detail. Many thanks guys!! I think I’m right with the lubricant however just to check the rear axle is a spiral bevel but not hypoid…………….. I am right there I hope?

Hi, Thanks for this but there is no visible groove on the pinion flange shaft. I shall check next time it is apart.

I wonder if anybody can help me as I have a problem with curing a leaking rear axle pinion seal. I live in the UK and am fairly new to Chryslers so this might be about unfamiliarity with the setup. The original leather/spring seal had disintegrated. I adapted the assembly to take a modern single or double lipped seal. When removing the rear axle drive pinion flange I noticed that the very large nut held in place with a split pin was not tight; I was able to undo this with my fingers. This did not worry me as my assumption here from working on later cars was that the cone of the taper roller bearing should not be under a lot of pressure; my practice to date with taper roller bearings is to tighten up the nut as far as it would go and then move back one flat or back to the next point in which the split pin can be put through. Anyway I have fitted modern seals twice now and it still leaks! I am just wondering whether the very small amount of possible travel in the cone and therefore also in the drive pinion flange is creating a pumping/hydraulic situation. The questions therefore are: 1. Has anybody else met this situation and solved it? 2. Is there a torque for the drive pinion nut or should I use shims to achieve zero travel at the cone? I will try and post a picture of the assembly. I will appreciate any help/advice. Many thanks Steve Welton

Looking for one of these in UK

I am in the UK looking for someone who has some experience of restoring and driving a 1929/30 Chrysler 70. I have recently acquired one of these cars and have a host of fairly straightforward questions that are not easily answered within the Handbook. Perhaps there is a dedicated club somewhere? I look forward to any advice that the might be out there.

I would like a radiator cap/hood ornament to go on my car . I am in UK.