drhach

How about some pictures of the 42? I have a 42 Special.

Yes, I see them for sale now and then. It's mostly a nerd project to learn some new things.

Great car. I have a 62. You may want to get yourself a parts book too. I can say for 62 that finding A/C components can be a challenge. Although, that mew may be the least of your worries at this point :). Havign parts book can show you a drawing of what the part looks like and also will tell you if it is used on other years. Sometime that can help you to broaden your search. By all means, share your progress. Regards, Dan

Any pictures? What challenges did you face installing it?

I'm going to pick up where I left off on making a distributor tester. I figured u how to drive it and I think I have the sensors sorted and a way to measure advance based on that. Now it's on to displaying the information. It's been an excuse to dig in tot the Arduino/ Raspberry Pi world.

I'm curious why you rebuilt the carbs(s). You mentioned that the issue started after the rebuild. What was going on that required a rebuild? Just curious. Regards, Dan

2 day turnaround? Did you blackmail the machinist?

My 1942 248 Special has an auxiliary vacuum pump on the fuel pump.

This thread is 10 years old.

I've wondered if this was ok given that there is a pump there offsetting the engine vacuum. Wouldn't that give a false reading? It seems like you would need to get a vacuum signal in front of that pump; but maybe not.

The Shop manual has a spec and a test for this. Section 10-46, subparagraph c and e. c. Horn Tone is Poor If either horn blows only part of the time or tone is poor, adjust current draw at horn, subparagraph e. e. Adjustment of Horns 1. Remove horn from car. 2. Connect an ammeter in series with horn and a fully charged 12 volt battery to measure current draw while horn is blowing. Current draw for each horn (either high or low note) should be between 8 and 10 amperes at 12.0 volts. 3. Adjust to specified current draw if necessary, by turning adjusting screw clockwise to decrease or counterclockwise to increase current draw. See Figure 10-59. Increasing the current draw increases the horn volume. Too much current will cause a high cut-in voltage which will cause a sputtering sound and may cause horn to stick in cold weather. 4. After each horn has been adjusted individually, sound both horns together to check for proper blend of tone. If adjustment does not provide a satisfactory tone, horn contacts are pitted, making horn replacement necessary. 5. With horns reinstalled on car, connect a volt-meter between each ·horn terminal and ground to check voltage while both horns are blowing. This should be between 7 and 11 volts. Regards, Dan

I have a 62 and I've toyed with the notion of different ratios and whatnot. I've found that there isn't a huge knowledge base for these rear ends. If you were asking about a Ford 9" or a Chevy 12 bolt, you'd get a lot of responses. But you're asking about Buick rearend for a car that doesn't really have a huge following. There is a discussion about these differentials over at V8 Buick 9 3/8" rear differences | V8buick.com I think if you want to know what ratio you have, you can count the turns of the driveshaft and axle or take out the assembly and count the teeth. The manual says that the ratio is stamped on the bottom of the housing. But if you have questions about whether it was changed, that number may not matter. The manual shows 7 available ratios (2.78, 3.07, 3.23, 3.36, 3.58,3.91, 4.45) for 1962 as well as Posi. I wouldn't assume that you have a 3.23. I suppose you're asking if a 63 differential will fit because you have one? Check a Hollander manual. That may tell you something. The only real way to know is to install it.

The work continues. I've been getting a "hot brakes" smell after prolonged driving. I know that the brakes had been previously rebuilt, but I decided to check them anyway. I'm glad I did. The smell was coming from the rear, so I started there. It turned out that both rear wheel cylinders were leaking. I put in new ones and took the time to adjust everything and give it a good once over. Moving on to the front. The left front was fine, and the right front wheel cylinder was fine. But the Right front brake shoes were installed backwards. The longer shoe was in the front. So, I fixed that as well. I centered all of the shoes and got them adjusted. No more brake shoe smell. The brakes now work as good as can be expected. While I had the car up, I decided to check for a stamping on the differential. I'm trying to ascertain what ratio I have in the back of this thing. Can I take it that this stamp means that I have the optional 4.0 ratio? I installed my antenna since the radio works. I also wanted to remove the wiper motor. I figured before I did. would just double check all of the hose routing. There was one hose disconnected. I hooked it back up and the darned thing worked great. The only bad thing is that I broke the plastic knob on the dash trying to get it loose. I couldn't get my hands up there so I figured I would loosen the valve on the dash and lower it to a more workable position. The parts are very brittle. I can get a new one, but I really would like to use what's on the car whenever possible. Last of all, the car surges a bit at cruising speed. I'm going to check for vacuum leaks. The season is winding down here in Illinois and I'm going to have to put the car up soon. Kind of sad, it's just starting to get fun. Regards, Dan

Pearls before swine.

If we reset the whole world right now, what would be better for the environment? Making EV's or not making anything and maintaining the existing stock of vehicles that are in the world?

I didn't. My last effort was to try to get the pinion angle correct as stated above. I got the suspension bushings from James. I had to drill them out to 5/8". They're Riviera bushings which are 1/2". I also bought a new set of springs. I'm hoping that will all get my ride height where it needs to be in order get my pinion angle correct. Honestly, I'm a little disappointed in myself that I didn't get around to it this Summer. I bought another car and have kind of put this particular issue on the back burner. At this point, I need to press the bushings into the spare set of trailing arms that I bought and then do the swap. The way things are going, I don't know that I will get it done this year. I remain hopeful that this will solve the issue. I've driven the car a few thousand miles, and the vibration is mild but still present. So it hasn't fixed itself Thanks for asking.

Did your vibration go away after you installed it?

Still have the 400 converter. You pay shipping and it's yours. I'm tired of stepping over it.

That roof is in pretty bad shape.

What's the plan?

FYI, that set worked on my 1942 (248).

18 Degrees? That's when we put on our shorts

With practice, you won't need to use the clutch at all except when taking off from a stop.

I like how they put the engine specs right on the center console. They definitely knew their target audience.