Simon Anderson

Help and ideas needed, I have recently acquired a Kingston Model E-5 ball carby. I have gone through and rebuilt it, new balls and seated, new butterfly shaft, reseated needle and seat and set the float height to 1mm below the top of the jet. It starts well and once you bring the rpm down to a more idle speed the carby will start to drip out the bottom air intake and start to lean out. I thought that the float height maybe the cause of the problem so I went up then down with the same issue. Next, looked at the intake valve closing timing, I made the tappet clearance a lot larger to make the valve close earlier. The thinking here is that as that maybe positive air pushing back into the manifold which is in turn pushing a small amount of fuel out of the jet. It still drips at idle What have I missed?

Hello all. I am about to rebuild a 1909/10 Kingston 5 ball carby, I am interested in the correct height of the fuel/gas level in the bowl to relation to the jet? Thanks

Is your bore standard or has it been bored? JP pistons in Adelaide, Australia make new pistons to suit your bore size and are supplied with new modern rings and pin. Around $300 aud. They have the slug on the shelf for Brush and finish them off to the customers request

that's fantastic, would love a email copy, happy to donate to you. ando_84@hotmail.com

thanks for sharing

there is a guy over here in Aus chasing axles

Thanks, My thought with posting the pictures that it would help you and others that may wish to tackle the oiler. You are correct, the top sight glass is the oil level in the oil tank and the lower is the drip sight.

This is great news that the parts where saved. I was concerned that there where going to the scrap yard. beside a D model transmission wanted we are chasing 3 outer yokes on the jackshaft (2 for me and 1 for another restoration here in Aus)

Back view of the original

Here is mine are using the above pictures, I was lucky to trade for the body which was a raw casting and had some machining done. all other parts where made and about 40+ hrs in this.

Here are pictures I used to build mine. This is an original brush oilier that I was lucky enough to take measurements to help with mine.

Thanks for sharing, it will be great to see another Brush on the road. well done.👌👏🏻

Thanks Hook after reading the information “hook” sent through to me, I have come to the conclusion that I have a L1! Can any one confirm this?

Thanks Jon that confirms that the float does need to be higher as I have experienced. would you agree that there would be a very small pool of fuel/gas sitting in the bottom of the air intake/idle jet area? “C” being the idle jet thanks for your input.

Thanks, I did try that setting and no luck, it is a different needle/seat setup and cork float to the L4 or Holley, after reading alot of info I have come to the conclusion that the info is more about the Kingston L4, here is a sample photo of my bowl. I have come up 1/4” from the 7/16” level and it seams to be running better but I didn’t believe it’s correct yet.

Hello, I have a Kingston L2 (1915?) on my 1910 Brush and I am trying to confirm the petrol/Gas level in the bowl. I see via an old picture that the level would be just below idle tube. Can any one confirm this?

You will have to share some pictures of your restoration so far. We would like to see them.

The paint shop would be a great place to start for advice on spraying your paint. also there many good tutorial's on YouTube about spraying for beginners. My advice is practice on an old bit of wood or steel panel and get the technique of the spray overlap and movement speed across the panel.

Let’s hope that is the case. ver here in Aus a couple of us have tried to buy parts of them, ohh man it’s been very painful process, and when we asked what he had or do you have a piratical part, the reply would be “I have a crate full of parts” and would never hear back from them. Even calling was painful. looking for a transmission or any parts for model D or newer.

Who is going Model T Haven Liquidation Auction?? We need to save all the Brush parts from going to the scrap/recycling merchant. There are parts there that people want/need, so who every buys it all, there are potential buyers waiting around the world.

Are you willing to ship to Australia?

I believe Brassworks where doing radiators.

6 months on and the brush has come together, there is still more to do but it’s drivable. The guards are temporary wooden ones so it’s legal to drive on the road and the bonnet (hood) still needs to be painted.

As I turn to the transmission in my restoration , is any one aware of the thickness of the original bronze clutch disc’s? My thinnest is 3.7mm I know hyster forklift disc’s (part #113486)can be fitted with machining to the discs .