Buick35

Sorry I don't text but please call me back at 321 877-2497 when you can.Thanks,Greg.

Saw on Space coast Florida's craigslist.post i.d. 7703345601. Sorry I'm unable to send ad on my tablet.Says it runs o.k.,body and interior look not too bad. I don't have the storage and would probably get a divorce if I bought it, but thought I'd pass it along.Happy New Year,Greg. Maybe if I hit the lottery and split the money with her she's be on board with it,just kidding.

Thanks

I bought a wind up clock from e bay for my 35 Buick.I knew it might not work when I ordered it but thought I'd take a chance.When I got it yesterday I was surprised that it wound up and I could set the hands but it only winds part way and then pops like something is stripped or worn by the main spring but I think it's fixable. Dose anyone on the forum repair clocks for a reasonable price? Thanks,Greg.

Thanks,I'll try that.Greg

I know the best method is to replace with metal but I don't think there's not much metal to work with.Previous owner built up the area with a lot of body filler and it's a unibody fender.Fortunately the area is below the front bumper and isn't noticeable unless you look underneath.It's a crack about 5" long running from front to rear by the left front wheels opening. Dose the body filler with fiberglass in it work well or what should I use? I can try to get a picture.Thanks.Greg

On Space coast Florida's craigslist under barter there's one almost identical but he says he wants to trade only for a truck.

Thanks,that's what we set it at today,plus changed the distributor for a good electronic one and got different plugs and synced the carbs.Now it runs much better.Still a slight issue with the carbs. I was told they needed to have larger venturies.Runs pretty good for now though.

Thanks,I'm thinking that too.I hope that's all it is.I'm taking it to a retired v.w. mechanic on Friday.He's got another distributor to try.I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for the replies.Greg

I've got the pulley with the timing marks all 360 degrees. Someone said I might have a weak battery or need a high torque starter,I hope not.Tomorrow I'll try a known good battery and see.The battery in it now is a $40 one from the salvage yard.Thanks.

I have a built up 1835 engine in a 69 v.w. with a 110 cam larger valves and dual carbs.The problem now is it won t start unless the timing is pretty retarted.If I start it that way and advance the timing set with a timing light to where it should be it runs better but when I shut it off and try to start it again in that position the starter seems to drag real bad and no start. New distributor(points type),mechanical advance.It also back fires bad out of the right carb.until it's warmed up.Could it be a bad distributor? Is that why real old cars had the lever on the steering wheel to change the spark advance after running? A friend in our car club who's a retired v.w. mechanic says he'd help by doing a compression check and other things.Hopefully he will figure it out.Happy New Years,Greg.

I just bought a clock for my 35 on ebay.He said it's not working.What's the best method to clean it without removing the paint on the face? Would evap o rust hurt? Thanks,and Merry Christmas.

I was looking for a 1/4" or so spring loaded oil fill cap that's like the kind found on old generator or starter fillers for a project, Thanks.

I kind of like the looks of a Pontiac Solstice but I read somewhere to replace the battery you had to remove some of the fender.That turned me off,that and the headlights could look better I think.

I'd like to see a picture of the rear end.Dose it have one tail light or two.I finally got a second one for my 35 Buick.It would look nice parked next to it in my garage but it's a long way from Florida.

I just saw a 38 roadster on Space coast Florida's craigslist for $8500.I was unable to post the ad.Said it was stored for forty years and not running.Looks cool though.I'm 6'1" so I don't know if I'd fit.

My motor has a mild can but it idles like it has a miss.I pulled the #3 plug wire from the top of the distributor and didn't hear any difference.I could see a spark between the plug wire and the cap. Could it be a bad wire not getting spark to the plug? I'll investigate further after I get it back from the paint shop.Thanks

Thanks,you too.

I tried some pipe thread paste I bought at Ace hardware and so far so good.It's called rector seal #5. The right rear still has a slow leak that I'll have to put the sealant on those fittings after I get it back from the body shop but the left front dosent leak at all.

I've found someone willing to help me through our local car club.Thanks and Merry Christmas to everyone.Greg

I'm on the east central coast West of Cocoa Beach around Titusville,Thanks.

I'll try to get pictures.I think that was thread locker since I don't believe it's a tapered thread.I can try more thread locker,the removable type.Thanks

It's not a compression fitting.The man at the parts store said to use Teflon tape which I did but still have tiny soap bubbles. My daughter-in-laws uncle is an appliance repairman. I'll ask him what he might reccomend.Thanks.

This probably isn't the best place to post but it is on my son's 69 v.w. Anyway I got new brass air shock fittings today and I thought that would solve my air leak since the old ones were plastic.They came with a red sealant on the threads and I tightened it down and squirted it with soapy water and it bubbled so I removed it and used Teflon tape, still leaked,I guess tomorrow I'll try pipe thread paste.I read blue lock tite might work.Any suggestions are appreciated.Thanks and Merry Christmas.