Jmsanch

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Posts posted by Jmsanch


  1. 1940 Ponitac Deluxe 28.  Ok finally got this car back together, and was going to take it for a ride.  When I moved it in and out of my garage only used reverse and 1st, so never noticed the issue.  So it went like this, reverse good, 1st great, 2nd oh crap the clutch pedal is stuck and cant shift into 2nd.  Car ioff and not using the clutch, you can shift into any gear.  But if you use the clutch it looks like the clutch linkage is loose enough that its hitting the shift linkage, and stopping you from going into 2nd.  I'm thinking a bushing has worn away.  Anyone know something about this?  


  2. Ok I think I found one on Ebay that should work.  I saw one for the same year, but it had an extended shaft, and said it would fit the 28.  Do you know much about that type of pump?  I didn't get one one, more out of curiosity.


  3. !940 Pontiac Deluxe 28.  Finally got everything back together, and fired the car back up.  A few tweaks to the carb, and the engine sounded pretty solid.  Did a little walk around the car and noticed, crap a puddle of coolant on the ground.  Opened the hood, and sure enough, looked like it was leaking from the weep hole.  Up till not I really haven't had any issues finding parts for this car, well until now.  What I've found is mostly kits and pumps for the 6 cylinder, this is of course the straight 8.  Are the 6's water pump compatible, or does anyone know a good source for a pump?  I haven't taken the pump apart yet.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Joe


  4. image1.jpeg.456c682ecb86620079c3173b8cfcd373.jpegSo I had had a little mishap last night connecting the brake lines to the new master cylinder.  I used my fingers to start the thread for the brake line coming from the rear.  It must have moved while I was tightening it, because it cross threaded the threads in the hole.  Im going to try and fix the threads, but in case I wasn't able to I was trying to find somewhere online that had these.  My usual source didn't have them, neither did Ebay.  I attached some pics of what I need in this message.  Anyone recognize it, maybe know where I can find it.  

    image1(1).jpeg


  5. So finally getting the end of fixing this old girl up, at least for the year.  I've been pretty lucky finding the parts I need, except for the exhaust.  I've looked on ebay, but I can only find what I need for the 26 series not the 28.  Anyone know where I can find what I need?  

    s-l1600.jpg


  6. So right now im chalking this issue up to it being the first type of carb I've rebuilt.  I've rebuilt snowmobile, and boat carbs, and treated this the same way by taking pictures as I take it apart and documenting it as well.  There is also a video on youtube showing Mike from Mike's carburetor rebuilding this type of carb.  So good resources are available.  On to my issue. Car is a 1940 Pontiac Deluxe. I rebuilt the carb all new gaskets, jets, and of course accelerator pump.  Mounted the carb, and the car starts now, but when you put your foot on the gas, it shot gas above the accelerator pump.  I put some oil on the leather part of the pump  as was suggested.  And it says its ethenol ready.  I took the carb off, took it apart and made sure I didn't miss anything, or anything was lose. I noticed the leather around the pump was a little deformed, and looked like it shrunk up.  So i put the original pump back on, put it back together, and havent gotten a chance to get to it till today.  Well once again it shot gas out of the top.  So I have a few ideas, what it could be.  I think need to recheck the needle valve, to see if the tip had warn off. I know thats an issue ive come across with rebuilding snowmobile carbs.   But im open for other suggestions as well.  


  7. I have a 40 Pontiac Deluxe 28.  The ribbed coolant hose going from the thermostat housing to the top of the radiator needs to be replaced.  I found one for the 26 series which is the 6 cylinder, so not sure if there are any differences with this car being a straight 8.  Does the hose have to be ribbed, did it serve a purpose with coolant flow?  My two go to places have nothing for this hose, so hoping not sol on this.  


  8. I wanted to say thanks to everyone for your advise with getting this old car running again!  There is one area I'm still not 100% sure on, the electrical system.  Owner says he used a 12v battery when it was previously running.  I really don't see any evidence of this being upgraded to a 12v system.  Not to mention there is no way to securely hold a 12 battery.  It just rests on the distributor cap.  I see the voltage regulator, and there is a label marking 12 volts.  But I still see a generator, and the lights are marked 6 volts.  Digging further I turn the lights on, and I'm getting 12 volts to the lights.  So clearly nothing is stepping down the voltage to 6 volts.  I wanted to see if the engine would even turn over with 6 volts, but I don't have a 6 volt battery for this car, and 6 volt batters are not readily available here.  So we took the 12 volt battery out, and connected the leads to my charger, set it to 6 volts and tried to start the car.  It didn't even have enough juice to turn the engine.  Slowly brought the voltage up to 12 and the starter finally started to turn.  I really don't want to fry the system given how hard it can be to find parts.  The coil is 6v and it def gets hot after a while.  We actually ended up frying another coil because I left the key on.  Not sure if that's because of the 12 volt battery, or just common practice not to leave coil key on when the car isn't running.  I think we should upgrade to a true 12 volt system, but I would like to have some understanding regardless.  Or we were thinking the voltage regulator could be bad?  


  9. Yep hearing her fire up again, even if it was for a few seconds, was highly rewarding.  I would say if we were still unable to get anything out of the engine, yesterday would have been the end of trying to bring her back to life.  Yeah I plan on taking the carb off an soaking it in carb cleaner.  We were also talking about putting together a temp fuel delivery system as well.  Its safe to safe to assume the gas tank, as well as the gas line to the pump is full of who knows what.  I've seen what it does to snowmobiles, i doubt this is any different.  


  10. Wow lots of great suggestions everyone thanks.  Ok I'm to start looking at the distributor for any issues suggested above.  I'm old enough to remember a car with a distributor system, but young enough not to ever work on one.  I take that back Senior year of HS late 90s Auto Tech class.  Ok well thats why I took on a project like this.  Back tracking a bit, I know I get voltage to the coil, but is there a way to safetly verify output from the coil, like connecting a spark plug to the end of the wire coming off the coil and grounding it out.  Doesn't the distributor just set the voltage to the individual spark plugs in time with the engine?  Or do I need the condenser to complete the circuit/spark?  I found some information on how to test the coil with a multimeter outside of the car, so I might try that too.  I think a refresher youtube video may be in order.   


  11. Yes its a 1940 Pontiac deluxe, engine is a straight 8.  The owner says he always used a 12v battery and never had a problem and at least during his ownership since the 70s has not updated to 12V himself.  So i guess I can assume its a 12v system, and I thought something stepped voltage down to 6v for coil clearly I'm wrong.  I still have the coil that was connected, which looks old and doesn't say anywhere what voltage it is.  So I suppose at this point its safe to assume its a 12v system, and I need to upgrade to 12v coil.  Also supporting this is if I connect an external power source, and give it 6 volts the starter barley moves.  As far as distributor goes I'll need to find out what the point gap is supposed to be for this engine.  I was told this engine ran when it was parked, and hasn't been touched since.  As far as cables go we replaced the dist housing ground wire, and I will check continuity of the the coil to the dist cap tonight.  Visually looks in pretty good condition, but looks can be deceiving.  Finally, there is black box which I think is a transformer, is for 6v accessories in the car?  Let me know if i give you enough info, I can provide pics as well.


  12. I figured I would at least introduce this project, as it goes well beyond no spark.  Not a car mechanic, mostly work on snowmobile, 4 wheelers etc.  I've always wanted to work on an old car, and admittingly this car is a little older then I would like to have started with.  Nevertheless, i jumped at the opportunity fast forward a few months and here I am.  I was told car sat for 10 years to find out when he dropped car off at my house it was more like 31 years.  Given how long it sat i let the cylinders soak in oil for a while.  The engine wasn't locked up, I just wanted to be cautious.   So after a new battery engine spins just fine, compression was low but I sourced a NOS head gasket to replace old gasket.  So which brings me to my original issue.  I'm fairly certain it had the original coil, and we didn't get spark originally.  Confirmed 12v to the original coil.  Replaced the coil and again 12 volts to the coil, and no spark.  So I tried isolating where the issue could be.  Obviously I knew had 12v to the coil, but I wasn't sure the easiest and safest way to test voltage out of the coil.  Thought we could plug a sparkplug directly into the wire coming off the coil ground it out and hope for spark.  No luck.  I did open the distributor cap, and it was really clean.  Nothing looked burnt up, corroded or dirty.  Any suggestions on how to test the coil output?