Sactownog

Welcome to the AACA, I recently just joined as well with my 33 Dodge DP 6

Well, Thought I would update this forum on the progress for anyone who wants to follow. I have ordered the new fuel pump, new master cylinder, and new brake lines. Also a carb rebuild kit for the single barrel. The dip stick tube that holds the dip stick in my engine broke off. Going to hope to god I can get that out and replaced. I am fully detailing the car claybar and buffed, chrome polishing, and I got to say this car came back to life quick. VID_87871230_194718_444.mp4 VID_88051030_123450_053.mp4

So here is my update. "Maybe I should start a resto thread for this car", anyhow I have ordered a replacement Master Cylinder, new Brake Lines, New Fuel pump, and removed Carburetor to rebuild it. I am cleaning the undercarriage quite a bit but will save most of it for when the new white wall tires get ordered so I can roll car out of garage and pressure wash underneath. I have been shining up the body and chrome. See pictures attached and follow progress on Instagram @Sactownog or #DaloianDesigns Cars name is #Harlean This car has sat for 26 years and really shows. But the paint is coming back, the chrome is pitted in areas but shining. So well see what can come back to life. Just have lots of elbow grease to put in.

This is just the wipe down, have not power washed the undercarriage yet. #harlean

That's really awesome I have yet to find the numbers on the side of my frame mainly because I still have to clean underneath butt once I find the numbers I may start that search not too sure if I'll end up with the original motor though and no the original owner did not tell me that he replace the engine

After looking into it I'm going to stick with the stock brake lines 60 bucks for factory lines and it keeps it more original ask for the engine for now I'll probably leave it unless I find a matching block then I might just have to pick that up and keep it for future but I still have plans to put a modern running gear underneath this vehicle for reliability and long drives in the future but that's all way down the road

I went to www.oldmoparts.com and they have the Master Cylinder for the brakes and the new fuel pump. I have them on order and will update when they get delivered. they said the fuel pump has the glass filter attached and that it will not be an issue having two glass fuel filters "one attached to fuel pump" and "one inline connected to carburetor" I may remove the inline and re-do the fuel line to the carb. I will be posting more pictures soon. I will be getting the Hub puller in the mail next week and will check the brake pads to see how good/bad they are. don't know if I will leave them if they have meat on them or replace just to have new material. will be replacing brake lines also, but am thinking I may have steel braided lines built by Parker just to have a bit of extra braking power.

Its a new hose. (MOLDED) I NEED HELP! FUEL PUMP HAS NUMBER 9926 on it and made in USA IM4. Anyone know what rebuild kit to use

I am finding everybody on this form very helpful with information today after having this conversation on both I dodge Facebook forum and this forum here I found a friend who knows someone to have my original one rebuilt so I will be sending it out and it will only cost me $210 which include shipping and the core I will update with that situation as soon as I get the master cylinder back my next Hunt is for the hub for which seems to be a unique tool that's not normal at a auto store

I have decided to spend the $310 on an American Made Master cylinder replacement. if anyone has a reason why I should not go that rout and go for the cheaper one, please feel free to share your opinion. I was thinking this vehicle is made in America and to keep it as American as possible, I should buy the American Master Cylinder.

From what I have found the master cylinder that is on my car now is an Fe 543 I am finding that there is another master cylinder that will work which is an m544 I don't know about the Chinese rumors of having issues but I don't see that it would affect the vehicle that much considering a brand new master cylinder part number m544 cost $100 is vs sending my old master cylinder to get refurbished for $140 for getting a brand new Wagner master cylinder part number Fe 543 which would cost me $275

Just yanked off the Master cylinder, its a "Wagner FE543 Lockheed" I have found some remanufactured online. However that's the easy part. Car is now on jacks with tires/wheels off. Now I need to get the drums off. Anyone have a recommendation where to get the correct Brake Drum puller for rear drums? Also, has anyone swapped to steel braided lines with the factory drums? Will it give me slightly better breakimg power?

Well, after getting the car started yesterday, I now have replaced the leaky radiator hoses with new ones, got the car on jack stands and have all 4 tires off ready to do brake inspection. Need to rebuild master cylinder, probably new rubber break lines, and wheel bearings I believe. I welcome all tips and tricks as well as opinions on things to do to advance this project. See attached pics.

This car came with Dual Side mounts. Was restored back in early 90s I believe, however all arts on the car are original from what we can tell other then the motor.

Harlean is alive. Got her running today. Sounds amazing, revs nice. Still plan on rebuilding the carb and fuel pump. But getting her going and running on her own power after 26 years in a barn is awesome. #DaloianDesigns #Harlean @Sactownog VID_70561113_090812_981.mp4

How did you find this out? I am trying to also figure out what Carb rebuild kit to buy.

I'm thinking if there's Gunk inside of the fuel pressure regulator that there should be Gunk inside of the card as well and that's what's not allowing it to run with the fuel lines

When I bought the car the guy started it using a fuel in the carb and it would run as long as he sprayed fuel in the carb when I look at the top of the spark plugs around them on top of the head yes they do have fluid around them I'm not sure if that is gas or if that something that was there before but I am cleaning the fuel filter at the moment and it did have a little gunk inside of it on the outlet side where the small hole is to let the fuel into the carb

Just took the line off the pump to the fuel filter, turned the car over a few times and it is pumping gas. See picture. That is the 2-3 turns of gas that came out. My next guess is to take apart the carb and clean it or rebuild it?????

That is a great idea. Ill try that tonight and update.

Pics for fun

That is how the Mechanic originally started the car, by spraying starter fluid down the carb. It ran but would not stay running. That is what leads me to the Fuel Pump.

Here is the write up from the old owner. Gas tank was flushed, points adjusted. It fired up. I think it needs the fuel pump rebuilt and it should start. I believe I should rebuild the fuel pump as a start. Also, I will put the oil back into the filter galley and let that go. Are all the old fuel pump rebuild kits the same for 33?

Please explain the Oil Bath Air Cleaner? it is for sure new to me. I took all the oil out, however I saved it just in case. so I can put it back in and it will be good. as for the fuel filter. here is a picture of my fuel setup, I believe the top part connected to the carb is the fuel filter and the part on the lower part of the block is the fuel pump. but when I find a replacement they seem to have them connected and am not sure if that is the correct fuel pump I need.