Sactownog
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Posts posted by Sactownog
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my 1933 Dodge 230 flathead (23" block) 4 door sedan started with the stock 3 speed that only allowed me to drive 40-50mph.
I then rebuilt the engine and rear end and within a few months the stock 3 speed went bad. I then purchased a 1939 Plymouth 3 speed with O/D from George Asche, it actually worked great for about a year considering I only drive the car one or two days a week.
well then the 1939 Plymouth trans blew a syncro and the car sat for a year.
well I have always been reluctant to install a more modern trans in the car, however after my troubles with the old transmissions, I did my research and decided to go with a custom made T5 transmission made at Anehiem gear in Aneheim CA along with a Russells https://www.5speedadapter.com/
I made videos showing how I had to make certain modifications to the upper transmission crossmember, modification I had to make to the stock clutch forks, and cutting out of the center x frame to allow the trans to fit and be installed without having to remove the engine and trans together.
I also had to chop the stock 1933 Dodge shifter and the stock T5 shifter and weld the new shifter together so that I could have the exact length I wanted with the shifter and allow me to use the stock shift knob.
I will have to figure out an E-Brake.
however! if you watch all 10 videos I have created it should get you through the installation pretty easily as well as show you how nice it is to shift and drive at highway speeds shifting into the correct gears when needed with ease. I even drove the car up a steep hill, engine started to bog so I dropped to 4th and she still kept crusing with ease.
I am very pleased with the setup now with the stock 230 flathead and now plan to do a few engine mods for power/looks/ and fun. dual carb, dual intake and exhaust with headders should make the engine move better and run a bit faster.
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On 3/9/2023 at 9:47 AM, JACK M said:
Thats a drag that the OD gave you trouble.
I remember you going thru the process of your restoration.
yeah, it really sucks. I loved having the OD trans but seriously every year it ended up breaking on me some way or another. the 230 flathead has never given me problems. but the trans is the worst. now I just realized I sent it back to George Asche without taking the thrust bearing post off it.
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Basically I think this thrust bearing may be for my 33 trans, but have the hole on top to work with other model trans? Not sure tho
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I have a 1933 Dodge DP 6 23" 230 flathead out of a 1953, 3 speed trans I think its original. however I need the throw out bearing for the trans.
HERE IS THE STORY: I purchased a 1939 Plymouth 3spd with O/D from George Asche, except it broke every year. I sold it back to George, and now need to figure how to get my old original trans that worked when I took it out of the vehicle.
2 questions:
1) does the 1933 trans have a post that comes out above the input shaft that goes into the throw out bearing?
2) does anyone have pictures of the clutch / throw out bearing setup for the 1933 Dodge car?
I AM NOT SURE IF THIS THROW OUT BEARING WILL WORK DUE TO THE HOLE IN THE TOP OF THE THROW OUT BEARING,
IS THE STOCK TRANS SUPPOSED TO HAVE A POST STICKING OUT ABOVE THE INPUT SHAFT TO HOLD THE THROW OUT BEARING?
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all of this is great info guys, I never knew a lot of the info you posted in the comments above. I appreciate your input and if anyone has more to add to keep history alive and correct. please post more.
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1933 Dodge Brothers offered options on there vehicles. what class would these options be considered back in 1933.
-exterior: dual side mounts, painted luggage trunk, fog lights, dual windshield wipers.
-Interior: Mole Hair, Fo-Wood painted dash/door trim, rear seat foot rest bar that goes forward or backward, interior heater
engine: 230 flathead 6, I think it was offered with a 218 flat 6 also.
just curious, I have been looking into Dodge Brothers history and cant find much on the status that these cars carried compared to other high end 33 cars.
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I am going to try and soulder a wire to the existing wire and pull it back through the headliner. otherwise I may need to figure out how to pull the interior pannels out. I think they are mostly held in by nails.
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car has been running good, It starts whenever I need it to. however the dome light does not light and I know it needs to be rewired.
can anyone tell me how to rewire this light and DOES THE HEADLINER NEED TO COME OFF?
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18 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:
Sorry there mate The 2249 Senior is adjusted off the car So I assumed that the box off yours would be the same
I do wish that the box was able to be adjusted off the car, but ya, the car has to be lifted, the bottom 4 bolts have to be loosened, then the top and side bolts adjusted.
but no matter what I do, it seems to be a lot more shitty than it was before I had it rebuilt. (I regret rebuilding the box)
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1 hour ago, Ron Lawson said:
They are supposed to be adjusted on the bench NOT in the vehicle
They are able to be adjusted in the vehicle with the front end and tires lifted off the ground. per the manual.
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21 minutes ago, Fossil said:
I can understand your concerns. That would be really annoying. Especially after having paid someone to rebuild it.
Half an inch doesn't seem excessive to me. Does the amount of play change as the steering warms up? Is it sticky in the center or just towards then ends?
The 1/2" -1" of left/right play stays the same. as the engine warms up, the steering gets more sticky and harder to steer. it allows me to steer but still becomes worrisome at points.
still debating if I should put gear oil i n the box, or maybe it needs more grease. not sure what measures to take yet.
I have played with the gear box and got it to a point where, when I turn the wheel left to right, it is a lot more responsive. but I think it can be better.
p.s. shop that rebuilt the box only rebuilds them, they do not adjust while in the vehicle.
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My issue is the steering starts out fairly ok, but as I drive the car more, the steering gets more stiff and sticks from left to right.
not sure if that is due to grease warming up or maybe gears in steering warm up and expand.
maybe I will ad some Lucas gear oil to the box and see if it smooths it out.
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1 hour ago, Pete K. said:
One option is straight STP. Been using it in all my old cars for years with perfect results. I use it with a combination of 140 Wt. gear lube in the transmissions and differentials. 2 thirds STP, 1 third gear oil.
is that gear grease & fluid ?
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had my steering box rebuilt about a year ago, since getting the vehicle back together, the steering starts out smooth then as the vehicle is driven longer distances, the steering gets harder to steer.
I popped open the steering box cap where you would put fluid/grease and found the gear box filled with grease.
I am not sure if the steering gear box is supposed to have grease or gear oil. also, there is about 1/2" of play in the steering that is driving me crazy.
how can I make the steering box more smooth and ensure I have the correct fluid/grease in the box?
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adored and winning awards
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This is when we were on our way to the local speakeasy (shhh dont tell nobody)
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Her name is #HARLEAN and she has been a great car to bring back to life.
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Now for the pictures of the work to bring the car back to live (Paint, Interior, & Chrome)
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1933 Dodge Brothers 230 flathead adapted using russells adapter kit and a T5 trans 5 speed
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
yes sir, I have been busy. kind of just decided to stop for a long time due to being beat down by the curse of my car. but now I am hopeful that it will be good to go for a while.