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Mattml430

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About Mattml430

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/18/1970

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Melbourne Australia
  • Interests:
    Playing with my 26&29 dodge sedans and ML500

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  1. It’s looking great Rich now it’s all together with the doors. almost ready to all come apart again now. Those locks look very fiddley, those tabs are a pain. I think Ron said they would break didn’t he.
  2. Thanks mate. I got it from vintage wiring harness. I’ll text you their details. They have 3 sizes , the one I got is 13mm OD and 10mm ID. You probably want the next size up from that for your headlights. It comes zinc plated so I nickel plated mine. It was pretty cheap only $13 a metre.
  3. Finished all 4 bumpers today. I redid the ones i wasn’t happy with so they are all pretty good now. Definitely not perfect but will be ok down at knee level. Im still getting the hang of doing larger parts and the new tanks. Had a few challenges but got there in the end. Also I picked up some metal conduit the other day for my brake lights and indicators so I thought I’d nickel plate them also. So had a great Dodge’y weekend
  4. No haven’t seen one over here. The closest would be the one Bob posted the other day. It looks pretty cool. Thd caps are probably quite small so they will be fiddley to fix.
  5. Well now your teaching me Doug , what are zerks I haven’t heard of them. I imagine they are some kind of grease nipple. It’s best to use the same material the caps are made from as you might run into trouble trying to plate something with indifferent material. What I normally do to fill holes is get a screw or bolt of similar size and stick it in the hole an then just tack it with a mig welder. Cut it off flush and sand it flat.
  6. Definitely worth the trouble as some small parts are irreplaceable and sending them away to be plated can result in them being lost. The place I use to buy my supplies does 20litre kits with everything you need. I’m sure there would be someone similar in the states. check these guys out and you can see what’s needed. https://janekits.com.au/nickel-plated-parts/ look for duel plating kits nickel and copper. A 20litre kit is a good size for what we do.
  7. So on steel you have to plate it in nickel first before you can plate it in copper. Copper plate won’t take to steel or cast iron, but if you have brass or bronze you can polish that up perfectly and then one coat of nickel over that to give you you finished product. Copper is used over your first nickel coat for corrosion resistance and filling any holes and marks. You can basically treat it as an undercoat and lightly sand it and then re dip it in copper again to build the coat. You do have to be careful though not to sand through the copper and bottom nickel coat otherwise you have to plate
  8. Don’t be silly Doug we all have our trades and what we do. It’s the will to keep learning that makes the difference. Talking about learning I did plenty of that today. My plating got of to a pretty ordinary start. The nickel went on ok but the copper just fell off as soon as I started to polish it. So I removed it all and gave the nickel a good rub over with the scotch brite before putting it back into the copper. I also think I had to many volts going into it. 3v. So I turned it down to 2.8v and left it in a bit longer around 35 minutes. It’s definitely more challenging with t
  9. I was trying my best to show the difference in them because if you don’t get rid of them they do show through in the plating. They can be polished out in the copper coat but I like to get rid of them from the start. But yes to look at them the one straight off the linisher looks better than the one sanded with the orbital.
  10. I should of known better and just asked you first Ron. 😂 That’s bloody fantastic thanks mate.
  11. Congratulations to our new Australian Dodge brothers club President Stu McCorkelle. Well done Stu for putting your hand up for the job I’m sure it will be in good hands. Big thanks also by the rest of the committee for all doing a great job and keeping the club going and getting a magazine to us during the year and also, getting our cars out on rally’s. Can’t actually wait until we can get out again.
  12. Picked up the wiring loom today from Vintage wiring harnesses. All looks pretty good I might have to adjust a few eyelets to fit the block properly but other than that it looks pretty good. I got 3 meters of spark plug lead and all the original type fittings to make the leads too. Does anyone know of or have a spare spark plug lead cover that goes over the top of the engine to carry all the leads. That is one thing I haven’t got yet.
  13. The cloudy looking bar is basically ready to plate. The shinier one has been finished with a 3M tri Zac linishing belt. The scratches from that are still to much to nickel plate straight over. I like to sand it with an orbital sander with 400g paper then a scotch-brite wheel on the bench grinder.
  14. Going to try and make a start on the bumpers this weekend nickel plating them. I received all the chemicals today and have put them in the tanks to dissolve overnight. I have my cowl moulding ready to plate so I’ll try that fist to see how it goes. will sure be interesting to see how it works. I have got a picture here of the bumpers done at each stage of preparation for plating. I need to run the scotch-brite wheel over the last one there and it will be ready for degreaser cleaning. Then it goes into Hydraulic acid for about 15 minutes, from there it’s rinsed in water. Out of the
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