NZ Buick
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Posts posted by NZ Buick
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Yes it’s walnut. I had the option of mahogany or walnut and am hopeful the walnut will stand up to our NZ sun better as roof down driving over summer will be a priority in this car. Was modelled off a few photos and measurements taken of my father’s original ‘16 and has come up amazingly!
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Another step in the right direction! Hoping to have a rolling chassis together in the near future so need something to steer it with!
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Well after a great deal of searching and no luck finding any I have managed to make a new pair of brake bands for my project by rolling some strips of steel to the right diameter and riveting the old hardware on as required.
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On 7/30/2022 at 5:45 AM, Oldtech said:
What Model is it ? looks later than D or E. Many similarities, though the center section is different. or is it 6 cylinder?
From everything I can make sense of with the parts I have collected they’re all E/H 6 cylinder rear axles. I’ve ended up with three of them by now and only have just enough parts to piece one complete one together. The brake bands and the long torsion rods that go under the rear from side to side and forward to the front of the torque tube seem to have suffered the most.
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On 7/28/2022 at 6:45 AM, Oldtech said:
Hmmm. That is a different mechanism than the D/E I'm familiar with. Internal looks the same but mine doesn't have the spring business. so the length may be suspect.
The band thickness is 2 mm. I think maybe you need a parts axle. 🤔
Unfortunately this is one of two parts axles that are both in a very very sad state. Fortunately I have enough of all the hardware between them to piece together what I need it just seems the bands themselves have practically vanished one still has a lining around the drum attached to nothing at all!
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17 hours ago, Oldtech said:
I have outers, Inner is a shoe so more difficult, also more likely to be missing. Band is 33 (83.8cm) inches pin to pin, 1 3/4 (44.5 mm) inches wide. Actual band is 31 1/2 long without ends.
You will need lining no thicker than 3/16 (4.5 mm). lining can be 2inches wide. Same lining for hand brake but may have to grind edges a little.
I have a set of bands I would sell if you want to pay shipping halfway around the planet. This is from D series but should be same as E.
Those measurements are exactly what I’m after. From what I can tell of the pieces I have left mine don’t have rolled ends for pins like yours but rather have a riveted on pad with saddles attached for the pins and adjuster to mount to. I’ll try to add a photo to explain. Is there any way you could measure the thickness of the steel the bands are made of for me? I think I will have a go at rolling some new ones.
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Has anybody got some dimensions of the inner and outer brake bands I need for my 1919 Tourer project? Or has anyone had new ones made? I only have remnants of seriously rusted ones left and cannot get accurate measurements from them to attempt to make new ones. Perhaps someone has some spares they may be willing to part with???
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1 hour ago, Rod Wise said:
NZ Buick, A lot of these vehicles were converted into utilities or the rear ends were turned into trailers. Very likely the rear springs were beefed up for the heavier loads.
Hi Rod,
This is what I’m assuming must have happened at some point. My fathers D45 has 8 leaves in its rear springs so I can only guess I have a pair of them in my parts. Hopefully the 15 leaf ones won’t be too hard!
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Here is one of the 15 leaf springs. The chassis number it is off is 526323 can anyone clarify anything for me from this? Perhaps the cars that came out to NZ had bigger springs?
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29 minutes ago, Morgan Wright said:
You need to talk to people with your actual model car, or resort to the parts catalogue. 15 leaves? No way. 8? No way either. You still haven't told us whether you got a model 45 or 49.
Sorry Morgan, I have what is going to be a E/H X45 Tourer. Unfortunately I don’t have a ‘car’ as such just a mountain of parts that I was lead to believe was of numerous 1919 Buicks. The two pairs of rear springs I have are 8 and 15 leaves. The 15 leaf pair came off the chassis I bought most recently with a diff etc still mounted under it which I assumed had never been out.
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4 hours ago, Rod Wise said:
My 1920 roadster has 11 leaves in the rear springs.
The springs that were on my chassis which I’m sure is a H45 Tourer are 15 leaves and seem really heavy and the springs In the mountain of parts are 8 leaves but I have a feeling may be off a 4 cylinder car.
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23 minutes ago, raydurr said:
My initial concern of using ball bearings in the valve train is that the bearing lacks the ability to endure the impact that valve train components must endure, largely due to valve lash. I have seen bearing races shatter due to impact and shock loading , a non ferrous bushing would have survived. Softer metals such as brass, bronze and copper wear faster BUT they are superior in absorbing impact loading.
My theory when I did it was the cam lobes in these engines are so gentle and valve springs so soft that I would get away with it. My main goal was to attempt to reduce a bit of friction and be sure the rollers were perfectly round.
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1 hour ago, Terry Wiegand said:
NZ Buick,
I think that you should think twice and think very hard again about using a ball bearing in the roller lifter assemblies in your engine. You DO NOT want to run two hardened materials against each other in a situation like this. It is this persons opinion that this is a recipe for disaster with regard to the camshaft. At first glance a person might think that this is a really slick thing to do, but if you do this, you are inviting trouble in the end. I hope that someone with metallurgical experience will chime in on this. Please do not do this. Mr. Marr and his engineers at the time had things figured out really well. Do no try to re-invent the wheel here.
Terry Wiegand
South Hutchinson, Kansas
AACA Life Member #947918
Hi Terry,
It certainly has to be a sign that numerous people of different backgrounds have suggested this is not a good idea. I have set a goal of trying to start this engine by the end of the year so still have plenty of time to refit solid rollers if I need to. I’ve kept everything i need to do this and at least it can be done without tearing the whole engine down again! Once I’ve done a little more research I’ll make a choice.
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3 hours ago, Oldtech said:
I would think... lighter ones for open cars, heavier for sedans.
I would agree with that thinking only I have no sedan parts in my pile only tourer and roadster. I can only assume the tourer needs the heavier ones for carrying passengers over the rear axle.
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How many leaves should the rear springs of a 1919 Tourer have? I have two pairs of springs in my pile of bits one is much lighter that the other. I’m assuming the lighter are for a Roadster or possibly for a four cylinder car and the heavier are the ones for the Tourer?
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20 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:
In 1922, 23, and 24 Hugh
Perfect thanks Hugh! Looks like the wheels I’m making fit onto my ‘19 tourer are ‘22-‘24 four cylinder ones. Another mystery solved!
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On 4/12/2019 at 4:59 PM, Hubert_25-25 said:
Spent the big bucks for new shoes that arrived yesterday. It's a full day with my friend when it is time to install 5 tires. Finally 5 matching tires. Photo 1 is of one of the tires that was on the car when I bought it. It would actually hold air for 10 minutes and it was leaking at the valve stem and not the tire.
One interesting thing about my wheels and the spare tire carrier. The rims only go on the wheels 1 way due to the wheel bolt spacing not being centered on the valve stem. What this means is that, if you had white walls on the car, you can not flip the rims for blackwalls. You would have to dismount the tire and reinstall on the rim. Then the spare holder is also a 1 way affair. It is built so that the face side of the spare tire faces the front of the car. So if you have white walls on the ground, you will have a black wall showing on the rear of the car, unless your tires have white walls on both sides.
Here is your history lesson. 1925 is the first year for Balloon tires for Buick and likely many other makes. Buick and Pierce Arrow chose to go with 22" rims. Buick chose to use 22 x 5.50 for the Standard, and 22 x 6.00 for the Master. 22 x 5.50 is no longer available. 1926 and the switch was to 21" wheels for the next 3 years for Buick. So 22" tires became a one year only tire size for only basically two manufacturers. 22" tires were not available for many decades, and people sought out used tires where they could find them, or replaced the wheels with 21" rims if they could find a donor Buick. The son of the previous owner told me that when they bought the car in 1958, they drove 150 miles to Houston TX just to find used 22" tires. Hugh
Did any early Buicks come with 23 inch wheels?
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3 hours ago, Rod Wise said:
NZ Buick, You need to tack weld the body (allowing for correct gaps at doors etc) together, sitting on a sheet of 2.4m x 1.2m ply. Use braces across the top to keep in the correct shape. Get body width measurements from an other car. Then draw the shape on the ply, This gives the main body rails. Mark all the positions of the vertical posts on the ply. While the body is in the correct shape make lots of ply templates and note the angle the timber pieces are to the horizontal. This is a big project and can take many years. Good luck.
Here,s a 1918 I was building a new wood frame for in the 80,s
That’s great advise Thankyou Rod. I’m not too concerned about the time it will take as I’m already a few years into this project and am yet to even have a chassis with wheels attached that can be rolled around! It is a gigantic puzzle to me that I’m thoroughly enjoying working my way through with the hope one day I may have a nice old car to drive around.
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On 3/11/2022 at 4:19 PM, Oldtech said:
What tourer do you have? 35 or 45? McLaughlin?
I have an E/H45 Tourer
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This is a job I’m not looking forward to with my 1919 tourer restoration! I have practically nothing left to work with in terms of wood work just a whole pile of floppy sheet metal
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Unfortunately I’m not so lucky! I’m missing one outer cone and because the hub has been off the stub axle so long one inner cone has surface rusted enough to pit where the balls need to run. I’ve been to our local hearing supplier and have hopefully found some tapered roller bearings with correct IDs and smaller ODs so I can hopefully sleeve the hubs and make them all fit. Just waiting to hear back if they’re available or not.. fingers crossed they are!!
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50 minutes ago, mobileparts said:
There are numbers usually marked on the bearings... can you see any numbers.... (you may need to clean them, to see....)
I cannot locate any numbers or markings or anything on these bearings unfortunately
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Hi all,
I’m searching for some replacement front wheel bearings for my 1919 project. I have a feeling the axle I have is out of a later car as it appears to have bigger and shorter stub axles compared to other 1919s I’ve seen. Has anyone got any ideas where I may be able to source them from?
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Well they fitted in perfectly! A bit more setting up and my diff will be ready to work again for the next 100 years! A huge leap forward for my project!
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1919 Buick Roadster
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Well was a big day for me yesterday. After five ish years my Buick project is now rolling!