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NZ Buick

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Everything posted by NZ Buick

  1. I will have a look at what I have and let you know
  2. Which panels are you after? I may have some that are salvageable.
  3. What is out there in the way of replacement crownwheels and pinions for these early Buick diffs? I’m onto my third rear axle now trying to find something useable only to find it has a few teeth missing inside! The first two have already had there innards removed previously so I’m guessing these gears are a bit of a weak point? I’m becoming quite desperate to find some replacements now as I will never be able to get this project going without them.
  4. Are there any 1918/19 crownwheels out there for sale? I’ve just opened my ‘new’ diff and there are teeth missing unfortunately.
  5. Thankyou very much for all of these photos! It gives me an idea of what I’m in for. I’m not trying to set any speed records with this restoration so am not really concerned that it will take me a great deal of time to piece something together it’s all part of the adventure in my opinion. Plus I don’t think it is a viable option to attempt to ship such a bulky item out to NZ and expect it to survive the journey.
  6. would it be too much to ask if you could possibly take some basic measurements of this subframe to give me a starting point to work from? It looks really nice!
  7. Well, it has been a very long time since writing on here. Basically I could not locate a useable diff for my project anywhere here in NZ so put everything in a corner and forgot about it for a while. Recently however I came across the remnants of a 1919 HX45 Tourer which included a diff and a relatively complete (although completely disassembled) Tourer body. After promptly buying these parts I have now made arrangements and got them home. After going through what I have now acquired I have been hit with a wave of enthusiasm as I’m sure I now have enough parts to put something together! My next question is… Does anybody out there have photos of 1918/19/20 tourer wooden subframe??? Mine has completely rotted away and left me with a floppy shell of panels? I’m happy to muddle away and make what I can but without patterns etc. it is very hard to get a starting point.
  8. Quick update, new crossmember is coming along slowly but surely.
  9. I agree that the longevity of a ball bearing in that application may not be any good but I’m of the opinion that with the tension of the valve springs in an old engine like this being relatively low (compared to modern engines) I have decided to give it a go anyway. My hope is that the shim washers I have used either side of the bearing are of a size that shouldn’t allow any balls to fall out into the sump and if I keep a close eye on valve clearances I will hopefully be able to catch one if it fails before it is too late!
  10. Yes that was me you sent the carb to. It took plenty of soaking and a bit of heat to get apart but after a thorough clean out I’m hoping it will be good to go now! I just have to get an O ring for the adjustment needle in the bottom as I hear this is the way to remedy leaks.
  11. After sitting a week with as much tension on it that I can safely apply it still hasnt budged! Unfortunately it is quite worn and I do need to remove it to repair it. I will try to remove the complete rear housing and press it off hopefully without breaking it!
  12. I have removed the retaining nut and big square washer from the end of the shaft and was expecting it to slide off but it appears to be extremely tight! I have it under constant tension with the puller in the hope it will release of its own accord but if not I will have to remove the rear housing and press it off as suggested above.
  13. Has anybody got any magic tricks to remove the universal yoke from the output shaft of the transmission? I cannot get mine to budge!
  14. Well with the engine to a stage that I’m happy with it I have moved onto stripping, cleaning and painting the chassis so I can soon have something to bolt it into! I have removed the first cross member ready to use as a pattern to make a new one and while I source some suitable steel to do so I have started dismantling the gearbox so I can give it a thorough clean out. Does anybody have suggestions as to how the rear universal yoke is removed from the square output shaft of one of these gearboxes? I have removed its retaining nut and washer but can’t seem to be able to remove the yoke!
  15. Another milestone reached, valve gear is all installed and have set the clearances to .005” I will check it again after some running and adjust it where needed. I had a great deal of trouble trying to free up the solid rollers on the lifters so they would spin smooth and freely and was worried about damaging cam lobes so have managed to find a ball bearing of very similar dimensions that I have managed to graft into place. Will be interesting to see if this is a success or not! Starter generator is dummied up so I can drill my water pump shaft for the coupling with the required clearance. Manifolds are ready to install I just have to make two exhaust port rings as they were missing. Marvel carb is cleaned up ready for reassembly and I have just got a vacuum tank off my father to rebuild or sneak an electric pump inside of.
  16. And here it is all sealed up ready to be turned upright and have all the valve gear installed. What are people setting their valve clearances at on these engines??
  17. The generator itself doesn’t know what voltage it is. in a constant current charging system like this it’s the battery that is used to hold the voltage down at 6 volts if there was no battery or load on the system a generator is typically capable of producing 40-50 volts sometimes more sometimes less. The windings for 6 volt are twice as heavy and half as long as 12 volt as a general rule of thumb therefore the armature windings etc are more than capable of producing 12 volt but the field winding is half the length/resistance that it should be for a 12 volt unit which could cause it to heat up in operation at 12 volts therefore in THEORY if you double this resistance of this field circuit you should be able to run the generator in a 12 volt system without it even realising there is a difference. The big thing to remember is that the theory is not always correct as when heat is introduced ohms law goes out the window so to get the right resistor requires some experimenting. also as it is 12 volts the current output needs cutting in half by adjusting the third brush so if the book says to set it at 15amps then 6 or 7amps will be plenty.
  18. The starter generator should have no worries operating on 12 volts I may limit it’s field current with a resistor on the generator side if it is too high but the starter side will just run on 12 volts as it is only used for short bursts.
  19. yes I am converting to 12 volts to make the electronic ignition work. I have basically just grafted the top half of a falcon distributor onto the Buick one making sure I do everything in such a way that I don’t have to modify the Buick parts so should I have to I can return everything back to factory with ease.
  20. Ah perfect! That answers everything for me! I was wondering why the 7 degree mark is ATDC on the flywheel. I have used the Hall effect ignition pick up out of a mid 90’s ford falcon distributor inside of mine as a trigger and have also made the falcon cap and rotor fit. For the ignition module I have just used an external Bosch type European hall triggered module. I have used these components as they’re all readily available and very affordable here at the moment.
  21. So I’m gathering from these comments and from the marks on the flywheel which I have now found that the base timing setting for these engines is 7 degrees? I will be making up a piston stop and using it to confirm my true TDC no.1/6 and will time up my distributor from there. It will be slightly different for me as I have modified my distributor internally so it has electronic ignition rather than contact breaker points but the correct timing setting will still be the same I will just fine tune it with a vacuum gauge once I’m happy everything is ok.
  22. Is it correct that the timing gears are marked with one dot on the crank gear that aligns in between two dots on the cam gear? With these lined up like so it appears to me looking at the cam lobes that cylinder one is beginning it’s intake stroke and cylinder six is just past TDC on its power stroke. In other engines I have mucked around with the timing gear marks are usually a true TDC.
  23. Thanks Terry that sounds great! I have noticed that when the timing marks on the cam and crank gear are aligned the engine doesn’t appear to be at TDC like I expected is this normal?
  24. Thanks Terry, information like that is absolutely priceless to someone like me who is trying to piece together a 100 year old puzzle! I have deliberately left that end of the shaft un drilled at this stage so I can set up the coupling with the required clearance once I have the starter generator remounted to the engine. I have been pre occupied doing some study lately but have now just about got the engine ready for the sump to go back on. Only have to replace the old oil pick up screen, install the oil feed pipe and then make some new sump gaskets and it will be ready.
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