Stooge

Actually now that i think of it, those stock tank pictures do not make sense for a 1937 with passenger side fill neck, since it would be facing the the driver side when installed with the neck closer to the rear of the car, so im not sure what those are from. Edit, ... whoops! i forgot @MCHinson owns both a 1937 AND a 1938 and that could be correct for a 1938

Thank you @Gary W those pictures also explain a lot of how the neck sits in and is secured by the grommet. From the pictures i have seen of stock tanks, and the the ones i have handy, (I think they may be from an @MCHinson post awhile back) it appears the neck is one piece with the recesses in the end for a twisting gas cap, but having a flexible piece in between makes sense when aligning the fenders and body, and not having a rigid fill neck dictate where the fender will go without a margin for misalignment. Sounds especially handy when having to locate the neck on an otherwise hole-less tank. It looks like the fuel neck grommet supplied by Steele , does have the crease shape molded into it, at least according to their dimensions drawing https://www.steelerubber.com/fuel-neck-grommet-50-0067-39 so i'll order one of those and see what i can cobble together. thanks again guys, its a big help! gastank2 by Dan Haas, on Flickr gastank1 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200510_141323 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I really don't see too many dark red/ maroon 1937-1938's, especially coupes, and with the color matched wheels, it really just look beautiful! Thank you both @MCHinsonand @Gary W, those underside pictures all make sense now i think. I was comparing the uncovered seats that i have, which has the tracks on the underside, as both of yours do, and the seat that i just bought. While the front slider and bracket are correct, it was just unbolted from the floor rather than taken off the track, the rear looks like it was re-assembled in reverse, with assuming the track was attached to the floor of whatever car it was in, and the wheel and mechanism attached to the underside of the seat. Fortunately, i believe i have the parts to do this with the extra parts and the extra seat, i should be able to make it all work.

Thank you for the link. It's interesting, i have both the front rod with the wheels on either end, and the 2 brackets with the wheel in my parts bins, but the seat, that was supposedly from a 1938 2 door sedan, has the wheel attached to the underside of the seat with the wheel facing towards the floor, rather than bolted to the floor, and it is also slightly shorter overall, (maybe by an 1/8") than the 2 i have that came with the car. I wonder if it could have been assembled wrong when it was reupholstered and rebuilt, though i'm not sure how they would have been able to mount it, unless it was mickey moused a bit. I'll have to pull the seat out and re-examine it. The gas cap, and more specifically the grommet/ female end, i have been planning on getting the stock non locking cap from Bob's and the grommet from Steele Rubber, but before i start making something, i wasn't sure how the fuel fill neck attaches, or if it is held in place with the grommet, and i believe there is a small tab on the inside of the fender to secure it to, if i remember correctly. For the neck itself, i was probably going to start with something from tanks inc or chevs of the 40s, to give me an end that will accept a twist gas cap and work the rest of it to route to the new tank.

Hi everyone, i am hoping for some help regarding my 1937 Century 66S, that some of you may be familiar with from my project thread on here, that i bought a few years ago as a stripped/ parted out, rusty body on a rusty frame, with a few post office bins of parts and have been working on a modest rebuild. Where this forum has answered so many of my 'i don't know what i don't have' situations that come with buying a car that has been blown apart for decades, i am looking for some pictures for a few things i haven't been able to find pictures of what i am looking for/ what something is supposed to look like. Specifically, i am looking for, the passenger side fender exit gas cap/ female end of the fuel fill neck, the radiator support for the front crossmember, (mine had a belt pulley acting as a puck when i pulled the radiator out), and the rear, front seat mounting. I recently purchased a split bench seat, and the rear brackets end with a small wheel on either side that i would imagine have an accompanying track to sit in. Although a lot of my floor has been replaced due to rust and rot, there was nothing in place where the rear of the seat is. According to the manual, it sounds like there is something in place that causes the rear of the seat raise and lower as it is adjusted forwards and back. Thanks in advance for any information and help! 2020-11-09_07-36-47 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-11-09_07-37-05 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20201024_185519 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Maybe not the biggest update work wise, but The one im pretty excited about, and whats going to save me alot of time and money, getting a seat for the Buick upholstered. i had bought a seat frame, springs, etc. a year or so ago, then Lebaron Bonney, who i was going to get the seat coverings and some interior stuff, went bankrupt, and i've been hemming and hawing about getting it covered, the cost, etc. Then, someone in a '37-'38 Buick group, posted an ad they had found for some seats way up in Maine, so i called him, took a vacation day and headed up to Maine a day later. Older guy, had raced for decades, was a founding member of the Orientals car club, had some had some nice cars in a nice barn, (as well as a beautiful house overlooking the mountains) and most importantly, a really nicely upholstered split bench seat, with the decorative chrome pieces, skirts, etc, from a 1938 Buick for $100 a '26 T that was basically made into an extended cab truck. he said that he drives it all around the country and has put over 60k miles on it 20201014_122051 by Dan Haas, on Flickr '39, 20201014_122038 by Dan Haas, on Flickr '39 Pontiac 20201014_122018 by Dan Haas, on Flickr The Equinox earning it's keep, the new seat fit perfectly in the back. i wasnt in any rush and had a nice leisurely 3.5hr drive there, spent all of 30minutes at his house talking shop, looking at his cars and loading up the seat, then a 4hr drive home. a well worth it trip. [/url]20201014_174248 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-10-26_02-44-30 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20201024_193424 by Dan Haas, on Flickr its in great shape, but could use a cleaning. it looks like it was just in a car that was brought to shows and doesnt show any hard wear, and i dont know why the seat bottom looks discolored in the pictures, other than that its corduroy/ broadcord and maybe needs to be brushed in the same direction? It looks fine in person 20201025_123900 by Dan Haas, on Flickr And i finally got to actually sit in my car for the first time, after owning it for 3'ish yrs and it just felt right! Just a test fit and to mark out on the floor where the seat will be located, since alot of the floor has been replaced and i want the seat to be where im comfortable sitting. Im a big'ish guy, and and some of 1930s cars that i have been in, have felt a little squished in, so since the new floor needs to be marked for seat bolts anyway, im taking a liberty and moving it back slightly. It will be coming back home and getting wrapped in plastic to keep it safe, leaving it around all of the metal work and sanding would destroy it quickly. 20201024_191046 by Dan Haas, on Flickr and the old seat for comparison 20201012_192539 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I havent held it up next to it yet, but it looks like the new old stock door panel i have should be a pretty close color match, although admittedly, i do wish the colors were slightly darker but i am very happy with even having this much of an interior 2020-10-26_01-24-18 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Also, got the rest of the trunk weather stripping channel cut out, the supports cleaned up, and the new pieces i made fitted. I decided to just drill holes into the new channel to coincide with the supports, and then i'll plug weld them to the stock support pieces. it ends up being around 16ft of new channel, so i've just been picking away at it running a bunch of tacks in between doing other things. Cleaning up the welds and dressing them isnt something im looking forward to, but i have a plan and some tools that should do it without too much fuss. the trunk lid will go back on to fit the lower piece of channel, then im going to cut out a majority of the trunk floor and remake it. i was trying to get away with using it as is, but it needs to be done and i'll regret not doing down the line. 20201025_123349 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20201025_123341 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20201025_123353 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I also thought it was time to finish the Edsel fender that i had started awhile back, since it was getting the in the way and collecting dust. i had been avoiding it because the peak/ end of the body line was giving me trouble trying to get it right, so i started there. The bottom side of the body line, is an indented/ concave shape and slightly sharp, where the top, is a rounded outward shape. i had the new piece made with the rounded up, and got stuck. Then i thought instead of making it all one piece, i ran a strip thought the bead roller and started trimming the edges to fit the opening. Still needs work, but not a million miles away 20181209_113143 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20181209_121508 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20201010_125746 by Dan Haas, on Flickr its just loosely in place and theres no inner fender to help align it, but its looking better 20201010_170820 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20201010_170823 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I just turned 33 a week or 2 ago, and fall into the millennial category. Aside from the budgetary restraints that people in every age group have to contend with when building a car to a certain level, a lot of it falls into, people my age, who didn't grow up with old cars, who's parents weren't involved in cars, etc. they can seem like these so far removed age wise, overwhelmingly complicated, antiquated, expensive, insurmountable brutes that you wouldn't know where to begin, and, especially the older stuff, really just falls out of the realm of possibility of ownership for a lot of people in the younger sects, where you dont know- what you dont know. I do believe however, there is alot of appreciation for it. i know people in my life, who would not traditionally be into cars, are some of the most curious, and enthusiastic when they see someone they know with something interesting. I didnt grow up working on cars with my dad, and i still have yet to work on a car with my dad, its not his interest and thats fine, but for whatever knowledge i have picked up on the way, i try and document how i go about repairs, fabrication, big sheet metal projects, etc, and share them on forums, social medias, etc. Aside from people who are already interested in the car hobby, people who are outside the hobby that i am friends with, also become a little more familiar with whats really involved in building a car, and i think becoming familiar and just being around them, touching, sitting in them, working on them as an extra set of hands, etc does alot more to spark interest and involvement than anything else. As far as affording old cars, i just buy old rusty junk basket cases that i can afford, and plan on spending a few yrs on them the current project, mostly a rusty body full of holes on a rusty frame that had been stripped clean and parted out, no engine, trans, interior, steering, wiring, etc etc. and my at home garage, my 84 and a 1958 Edsel Villager that im working on as well

With the body back on, its time to jump back on to some of the remaining sheet metal projects that i was procrastinating on and and i didnt want to do too much cutting while the body was sitting on stands at the chance of having something fall out of shape, ( door sills, trunk frame, etc.). i had made a new repair panel for the passenger side cowl/ fender mounting area months ago, so i started there saturday. Fairly crusty and i could pull the lower portion apart with my hand 2020-10-05_07-16-12 by Dan Haas, on Flickr A quick check with the new panel cleco'd over the old section 20200315_153535 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200315_153711 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200927_123319 by Dan Haas, on Flickr It had been partially repaired before and there were some unexpected gobs of brazing, but luckily the inner rocker metal it was attached to at the pinch/ crimp area was rotted and i could just replace it rather than fight welding around brazed metal 20200927_123900 by Dan Haas, on Flickr that small section on the top, i just cut out and made a simple little patch, most of that area was good and i didn't want make a whole new panel for it 20200927_125429 by Dan Haas, on Flickr A quicky little inner rocker piece, curved on the left side to fit around a section of the door sill. Butt welded on the right upper side, but there was a factory over lap from a piece of the floor that i took advantage of to just do "spot"plug welds on that section and cheat a bit. gave it a good once over with a while wheel and some cleaner and painted it all since it would be sealed up permanently, though there is a small window from the inner toeboard area, but not really accessible for paint. 20200929_202043 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Made a template to locate the fender mounts and used some 5/16-18 weldnuts on the backside to match the original thread sizes 20200927_105930 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200927_133758 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20201003_132016 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Still have some cleaning up to do on it, but thats good enough to make sure it will fit right. i left the bottom curve unwelded so when i get the door aligned and where i want it, i can match the new panel to align with the door bottom. i did the same thing with the rear rockers. 20201004_101412 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-10-05_07-40-01 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I had some free time yesterday before i was supposed to give a buddy a hand with something, and mounted the door and loosely bolted the fender in place, (both a little clumsy when by yourself) and put a running board on. there's alot of adjustment with the running board brackets, and the fender itself, so i'll spend some time getting it sorted, but certainly looks like it will fit correctly and the fender will fit snug into the relief areas of the new panel. There' still a piece of the door sill bracing in the place so the door is open a bit and just ziptied closed. 20201004_112327 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20201004_112157 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-10-05_06-53-21 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20201004_112206 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20201004_112344 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Thats good to know! Constantly gumming up sandpaper and having to change it prematurely was one of the big stick out memories when i was thinking of when i've used it before, aside from being hard to sand down. Now you have me a little curious about what/ how the new stuff is. i end up doing a lot of sheet metal repairs for people, and i'm sure it would be more convenient for them to have something nice to use and readily available at the store down the street, than telling them to order online or go to an auto body supply house, when it comes time for them to bodywork the repaired area.

For tv shows, I think it would end up being whoever the supplier is sponsoring the show. Chip Foose is sponsored by 3M and thus uses 3M Bondo brand fillers. I havent used all of the different Bondo brand fillers and i would imagine that Foose uses a higher end flavor, but regular, off the shelf at the parts store Bondo, isnt my favorite. It's generally pretty hard to sand, and i have run into adhesion issues with it. i've been using Rage Gold/ Evercoat products for years, and have been well worth the slightly more money to me in terms of ease of use and results from it.

I wonder if my father is on an air and space forum somewhere saying this about me! He's about 67, i just turned 33 the other day, and from the time i was born, i was brought around the country to museums, events, launches, exhibits, air shows, anything to do with air craft, space, rocketry, etc. and even just narrowly avoided going to space camp one year, as soon as i was old enough to start staying home and skipping these trips, i did. Not even that i was rebelious or angry about going to those places, there were some fun trips and i got to see alot at a young age, it just wasnt something i was so interested in that i wanted to spend my school vacation week at Cape Canaveral/ Kennedy Space Center. i started out being interested in old cycle cars/ edwardian era, and kind of Brooklands race car stuff before i really knew what it was. Then in my early 20s, i got into later model truck stuff, then older trucks and have settled back into prewar cars, but with actually owning and working on them, rather than just admiring as a kid, with my current 1937 Buick while keeping my C10 truck. My father has absolutely zero interest in old cars, and even the stuff that i work on that seems to be popular with that age bracket, (66 GTO's, chevelles, tri-five stuff) just doesnt tickle his fancy, which is fine. I dont typically buy the car hobby is dying argument doom and gloom. Its definitely changing in regards to how cars are worked on, and what the kids want, but it seems like there were always young people going after new cars from whatever era they are in, and others went for old stuff. Im sure the kids who could afford it, went out and bought shiny new 1949 Oldsmobiles, while others were playing with prewar roadsters/ hot rodding. now instead, its kids who can afford it or can make payments, go out and get new mustangs or chargers or porsches, while others are going for 30+yr old project cars in the form of 2nd or 3rd gen camaros, fox body mustangs or datsuns. I know plenty of people my age, and within a decade either way of my age, with pre war cars, although they may not be perfect restorations, many are nicely done and built to a certain era using period parts. Regardless of whats being worked on and by whom, i think cars still represent some sense of freedom to certain young people and in turn become very passionate about the hobby. The car hobby has certainly shaped the way my life is today in a very positive way.

Oh yeah, i love the styled line for these yrs. I have both bumpers, but they are completely trashed so ive been on the lookout for a usable set before biting the bullet and try and get them refinished and rechromed since i have a feeling it will be pretty spendy

Thanks guys, it snowballed a bit since originally, i wasnt planning on doing the inner tray part, but when i started cutting out the outer skin and exposing all the mess that was underneath, it had to be done. it was a frustrating and it took awhile to get it right, but im happy with how it came out, and i really need to finish the weather stripping perimeter that i've been dragging my feet over. that could be cool, were we talking before about breaking up your front bumper or V'ing it something? Are you using the stock bumpers? A smooth bumper without the bolt holes or indent line,and mounted from underneath for a floating effect sounds cool and doesn't seem like it would be that hard to make. Maybe like a C shaped bracket with a frame mounting bracket at one end to curl up under the tail pan, thought it may not be all that effective if you get bumped.

i had looked around a bit and thought about taking a chance with some of the EMS ones meant for a '37 Chevy coupe, but something talked me out of it, i think it was going to be dimensionally incorrect and its frustrating to have to cut apart spendy new panels so i made my own stuff. i copy and pasted from my thread here but if you want something more specific, i have more pictures. It was pretty rought, several overlapping patches of varying ages brazed, pop riveted, and sheet metal screwed in place. it was also dimensionally wrong and the trunk and rear fenders hung out passed the panel 16 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 18 by Dan Haas, on Flickr the start of a new tail panel 2019-10-14_07-25-15 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 5 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 6 by Dan Haas, on Flickr With the patches cut out to fit the new piece, I decided to cut out the inner trunk recess/ flat area where the clamp for the spare tire is, as it was in pretty bad shape and full of old repairs. 3 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 4 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 6 by Dan Haas, on Flickr this was something that I couldn't really figure out a good way to copy the original with the resources I have, so I decided I just didn't want it to look glaringly out of place when the trunk was open. I am also not quite sure what the recess is for, other than that it seems to just kick down to clear the frame rails, maybe a tool kit area? Screenshot_20191229-171149_Gallery by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200105_120936 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200105_120941 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200126_121941 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200126_134553 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200126_113143 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200126_113131 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20191201_115237 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 4 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20191201_111252 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20191201_111311 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20191123_120223 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 4 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20191201_115826 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 5 by 20200321_194302 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200415_195458 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200415_201651 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Thanks guys, if they are not factory holes, then i don't have any guilt over filling them in. i just didn't want to get rid of them if they were an oem feature and some future owner wanted to utilize them @MCHinson i was sitting next to the car frame switching around between your's and Gary's threads trying to figure out a way to do it without completely changing how the homemade running board brackets were set up. i made a few pieces of hardline trying to make it work , but there weren't any that i was happy with and was confident wouldn't be obstructed by or in contact with the body/ inner rockers. I would have rather done it outside the frame, but im happy enough with the outcome, it was just something that i had overlooked when i was setting up the running board brackets.

Some activity, in preparation to get the body on and trying to do all of the things that would be harder to do after the body is on, and alot of de-rusting, cleaning, sanding, grinding, painting, etc. The engine has been set in the frame, and everything fit as it was supposed to with the modified later style front engine mount plate, ( although the rubber blocks twisted a bit while tightening up the bolts). i bought new bellhousing engine mounts from Bob's, but unfortunately i didnt have the stock ones to turn in for a core so they cost a little extra but im happy to atleast have them. 20200913_132912 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200913_132850 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Exhaust has been run and the fuel line is in. from what i could tell, the fuel lines would have been run outboard of the frame, ( there werent any fuel lines in the car when i bought it) but with my running board brackets, i had to run the line on the inside of the frame. Alot of obstructions on the interior of the frame, but i made it work in 1 long piece of hardline. I added 6 volt Carter fuel pump to work as an auxillary/ back up/ helper and installed it on the gas tank crossmember. 20200913_134500 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200908_204125 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Spent some time sort of awkwardly kneeling under the car while it was on stands to sand down the underside of the floors. I had rebuilt alot of the floor, but there was still alot of the stock floor in place that had a good layer of rust, but fortunately it all cleaned up pretty well, and i sprayed on a few thick layers of the same tractor enamel that i have been using on the chassis. Since i was painting the underside up into the toeboards, i figured i should spray some primer on the firewall since the engine would be in the way eventually. 20200913_104124 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200913_115335 by Dan Haas, on Flickr the transmission case is empty, as the engine and transmission will be coming back out to get cleaned up, but just to make sure it fit together in the frame 20200726_105543 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200726_105531 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Most importantly, a buddy came by yesterday and finally have it looking a little like a car again. I still have some aligning to do, and i have to make new holes for the rear most body mounts where i replaced alot of the trunk, but i just wanted to get the majority of the big moving done while i had an extra set of hands. 20200913_161157 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200913_160808 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I think next will be finishing up some of the sheet metal work, primarily finishing the weather stripping channel around the trunk, and the outside cowl/ toeboard area where the front fenders bolt to the body. Also not sure what to do about the antenna mounting holes on the driver side. i dont plan on having a dash radio or using the antenna that came with it, ( i dont know if its stock, it doesnt look old enough but the mounts on it seem like they would fit the body holes) but i dont really want to weld them up either.

Matt, is there something going on with Apple/ did you have a bad experience? i was planning on sending in the rear shocks for my Century to Apple soon, and obviously would like to avoid any possible issues.

*SOLD* I have the banjo style wheel that came with my Century when i bought it, and its unlikely i will be having the wheel refinished, and thought i should pass it along. Someone at some point in time wrapped some electrical tape around the wheel when the grip had failed, the spokes and ring seem like they clean up well, but i would consider it a core. I have tried to provide accurate pictures of the condition, but please ask if you want a better view of something. Asking $100 plus shipping 20200715_200646 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200715_200657 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200715_200650 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200715_200051 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200715_200059 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200715_200128 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200715_200119 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200715_200507 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200715_200519 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200715_200539 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200715_200046 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

I wasnt going to post this, because its a stock deviation, but i see this thrown around enough that it could be useful to someone else and did this over the weekend. This is one of those concessions i've been hemming and hawing over for awhile, with not wanting to deviate too far from stock, and have a safe enough car that i could take on road trips. I've had enough instances of being in cars with brake failures, (it doesnt take many and i've had a few recent ones in the last few yrs) with old original stuff, all new stock reproduction/ nos stuff, new style, etc. and figured adding a dual master cylinder using the stock pedals and stock transmission side mount was a happy mid point of not deviating too far from stock, but just a little extra layer of safety, peace of mind while not interrupting too much visually, unless you climbed under the car to look. First tracked down a 1" bore manual drum/ drum master cylinder with the outlets that would be facing toward the frame, then got out the cardboard and came up with this, 3/16" plate, fully welded on both sides, though i still need to correct some of the hardware i used with what i had on hand. i mocked it up on the bench with the torque ball flange nad the transmission crossmember, and didnt have any interference issues, but i am planning on getting the engine mounted in the frame this week, so if i have any issues, i will know soon. 2020-07-13_09-10-12 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-07-13_09-09-06 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-07-13_09-10-46 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-07-13_09-11-45 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-07-13_09-37-20 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-07-13_09-12-58 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

Not alot of progress, but some forward progress and alot of filthy work that i dragged my feet through. Im putting an order together for Bob's including the new bellhousing/ engine mounts, throw out bearing, and a few other things, to hopefully get an engine into this car for the first time, i would guess, in many decades. I think the only component i am still missing to get the transmission and engine bolted together is the correct clutch fork with the through hole for the pedal linkage, and i believe a is slightly bent/ concave. I blew apart the rear a few weeks ago and managed to get it back in over the weekend 20200417_161235 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200607_111003 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Originally i was planning on just replacing the rear leaf springs with new ones from Eaton, but with the car seemingly being apart longer than it was together and they looked to be in good shape, i pulled them apart, wire wheeled them, ground out any indent marks from the edges, softened the edges and corners, and gave them a once over with a flap wheel to give it a quick little polish. Then painted with durable tractor implement paint and applied some graphite paste lubricant before re-assembling. I still need to order the leaf spring clamps but i wanted to get the suspension back in so i could get the chassis back on wheel dollies as it was in the way on jack stands 20200519_175330 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200523_124729 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200516_132827 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200521_193450 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200521_195130 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-07-06_01-11-51 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I havent pulled the axles yet, but plan to when i do the brakes and replace whatever seals/ bearings are in the outer/ flange. i also have to make some new, what i am assuming are, triagulation bars that run from the rear to the torque tube, one of mine was rusted to the point it was snapped off at the bolt and the other was pretty close to being there. i have the raw materials and die to make new ones saved to my McMaster carr list, i just havent ordered them yet. Theyre going to have to be very slightly different, as the stock ones have a 9/16-18 thread, but the unthreaded portion of the bar seems to drop down to 1/2" or so, so the nuts can unthread into the center and make it possible to install as it would not clear otherwise. i intend to just thread a longer portion of the rod to just be able to run the nuts up further to get them out of the way enough to install. I still need to send out my rear shocks for rebuild. 20200627_110009 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200627_111535 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200627_123156 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200627_135838 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200627_135747 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200523_135944 by Dan Haas, on Flickr New Ubolts, (they are a little longer than stock, but i plan on trimming the excess length off the ends) and new bump stops from Steele Rubber, 20200704_131821 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200704_132014 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I need to dig out my parts storage bins as i would like to get the parking brake cables, fuel lines and brake lines run or atleast mocked up before the body goes back on. I am also planning on running an electric fuel pump in line with the mechanical pump for some back up and was planning on using the 6volt rotary vane Carter one, as i have used them before, albeit 12v ones.

I measured the ones in my coupe and had 31 1/8" from end to end with the support extended/the trunk open all the way

I don't have an extra set, but I have to stop by my shop later tonight if you are still in need of measurements of the supports by then. 1937 Century coupe, old picture though. 2020-05-28_01-56-36 by Dan Haas, on Flickr

@MCHinson also posted these very good reference pictures to get an idea of original gaps in that thread as well

when I was building my running boards, @Gary W sent me some very helpful pictures with the gaps he had on his running boards. in the pictures, his are freshly vulcanized, but is a good reference it didn't quote right, so I just copy and pasted from my thread where he posted these "Here are a few photos of the finished running boards on my '37 Special. There is just about a 3/4" clearance everywhere, and that's with the rubber vulcanized on the board. I basically loosened up all the mounting nuts and bolts, positioned the board so the gaps were consistent following all the fender contours and tightened it up. I hope these help!"

A few recent things, im the proud new owner of a rebuilt 11" pressure plate, which with the exception of a clutch fork, means I almost have a full drive train 20200427_204241 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Dug out the shocks that I've acquired, one is different and I believe may be from a slightly later Oldsmobile, but the other 2 seems to be a matching pair, and also match the mounting holes in the rear sway bar. One was pretty well frozen, but with a little work and some oil, both seems to move freely and are building tension pressure, but I still plan on sending them out for rebuild as one of them was pretty dry so im assuming whatever rubber is inside would be pretty deteriorated. still need the shock links to the rear end, but I need to go through my boxes to see whats in there, though I think I have seen them for sale through Bob's or another vendor. 20200503_174041 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Feel free to skip the rest, and remember this is a modest- 'lets try and do a nice job on a small budget because my last project was waay over budget' project and this car was stripped clean and sold off of alot of the useful/ hard to find pieces No gas tank or straps came with this car, after some measuring and going over everything, I decided on a first gen Camaro/ firebird tank. Came from Tanks inc, was inexpensive, but I already knew there was going to be modifications so I wasn't that worried, though the metal was a little thin. 20200424_175819 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200424_181557 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200424_202814 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200424_203915 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Next was making some mounting straps, decided on 1/8, a little on the thick side and overkill, but worked well and is something I wont have to worry about. Some T bolts from McMaster Carr, 3/8-16 20200502_150237 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Bent to follow the shape of the tank, i'll be cutting some rubber strips and adhering them to act as isolators, but Im going to have to to pull the tank a few times when the body is back on to make the passenger side filler neck, as well as paint the tank and straps and reseal the tank after its been welded 20200510_135557 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I've been really trying to avoid doing any sort of non-reversible welding on the frame, but I conceded and filled 2 of the factory gas tank slots on the rear, and used (2) 3/8-16 weld nuts to act as the rear mount. This keeps the tank accessible from underneath and takes out the need of trying to fish a wrench on top when the body is back on and keeps the tools needed to service it, if the need arises, to a minimum. I plan on taking this car on some longer road trips when its done, and keeping things accessible is something im really trying to keep in mind for when im on the side of the road a few states away from home 20200510_130147 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200510_134310 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I did use the front mounts without any sort of modification to the frame, 20200510_141323 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200510_141315 by Dan Haas, on Flickr The next, not completely correct piece, was that the 320 engine I have, is from a 1947 and as such has a different front engine mount plate behind the timing chain. I've been looking without much luck, though I did have someone offer to sell me one for $500, but I politely declined, so I figured I would give this a try. I still need to pull the piece out and weld it from the backside and fish plate it for a little extra security but it at least keeps the ball rolling in the right direction. Made a quick and dirty frame template 20200422_202032 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Some cuts made 20200425_144715 by Dan Haas, on Flickr And some bends to make the lower angled edge into a horizontal plane 20200425_152338 by Dan Haas, on Flickr one of the filler pieces, made from 3/16 plate. 20200425_152438 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Aesthetically, I should have made 2 separate pieces for the larger filler piece and made the side piece rounded instead of one piece that I scored and bent, but having it squared off a bit will give more clearance to getting long enough bolts in and out 2020-04-27_10-13-28 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200426_123750 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200426_133608 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200426_132944 by Dan Haas, on Flickr