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Everything posted by RJD2

  1. Thanks!!! Wow, that's amazing work he did. I'll see if he is kind enough to share that info.
  2. Hi all, I am in the process of restoring a 1976 Lamborghini Espada. I have had a hard time finding a model-specific online forum around these cars that is even remotely populated, so, while unlikely, I am going to give this a shot here! Thanks for entertaining me on this one.... I have what I believe to be a bad window regulator in one door. I am attempting to disassemble the door interior; I've got the trim off, and the door card has a bit of play to it at the edges. This car has an armrest, and a door lever, at the center of the door. I have the only screws that are accessible removed. The armrest is not coming off easily. My best guess is that the armrest may be glued to the door card, which is trimmed in very nice leather. I've never seen mechanical + glue construction before on a door interior. Because the card is in such good condition, I am progressing gingerly(not forcing it, I've ripped door card vinyl before!). I am having a hard time finding anyone who's ever disassembled one of these doors. So, in your best guess, do you think it's possible they would have glued the armrest to the door card? Is there a non-invasive technique to progress here? Thanks for the tips!
  3. Thanks. It's a '72 Citroen SM, Maserati V6 engine.
  4. Hi all, I wanted to ask you folks a question. I've got experience with old/classic cars, but I recently came across a car that has not been ran in about 35 years, according to the previous owner. (I was told it "ran when parked, but spit out blue smoke everywhere"). I've never been down this route before. I will be turning the car over to a mechanic to see if it can be made roadworthy in it's current state, but for my own knowledge, I wanted to see what you think is the best plan of INITIAL action. I would assume the best thing to do would be to flush all fluids and gasoline, replace oil and coolant, and first see if I get leaks. Then see if the motor turns by hand. And if so, maybe try to crank it? I have also heard of people taking the head off and soaking the combustion chambers in clean oil, and letting it soak for a week or two, and then reassembling and cranking. Let me know your thoughts as to what's the best approach in this situation. Thanks!
  5. SUCCESS! the tab on the new 00 gauge cable is huge; it was just barely bridging the pins on the starter relay. backed it off a bit, and she acted just as she should. THANKS FOLKS!!!!
  6. update: so I got my new 00 gauge cables, and harnesses in today. I knocked them up, and immediately saw a behavior I've never seen before in a car. With positive and ground cables connected, the engine immediately starts to crank-but the key isn't in the ignition, and the ignition is in the "off" position. This wasn't a lark; i repeatedly touched ground cable to ground battery terminal, and it repeatedly did the same thing. I'm thoroughly confused. Can someone enlighten me? Thanks for the help!
  7. Mike-sweet! I actually considered soldering the ends, after I have the clamps in place mechanically securely. I'll probably do that once I have them knocked up.
  8. thanks. i just ordered them. i'm on it. oh, and i got the car to fire last night! i do think amperage is an issue, and possibly alternator. the car doesn't seem to charge a battery as i'd expect, but i'll test further once i have proper 00 cables in place. thanks everybody!!!
  9. progress! I found ONE of my problems. the quick disconnect on the ground terminal of the battery was not functioning fully; i was seeing voltage across the downstream side of the ground cable and the +6V terminal of the starter relay, but the crimp end of the ground cable wasn't very secure. after cranking the engine, the cable felt hot to the touch. (also, it's a 4 gauge wire-should I go higher?). i removed the quick disconnect harness on the ground wire, and bolted it down to the ground terminal. but i'm still not seeing what i think i should. with the battery charged, i only got about 30 seconds of cranking before the battery lost amperage to crank. it never fired. my console gauges now hold steady with the key at the "on" position, but the headlamps don't shine 100%. i threw the battery back on the trickle charger after securing and cleaning all my connections, so i'll investigate further after i give it a good 12 hours to charge. thanks all! i appreciate the help!!!
  10. Amp, oil, and temp gauges don't budge at all upon turning the key to the on position. The Fuel gauge would consistently engage to about 1/4 tank, and then immediately discharge. I did this probably 6-8 times in a row. FYI, I found a site that sells OEM and 6V parts for this car; I ordered a new ignition coil and some other possible ignition and electrical parts "culprits", so I can start swapping things out in a week or so, if need be. Thanks for the help, all! Would love to keep the ol' girl running!!!
  11. Hi all-1st time poster, thanks for your time. So I've got a 1953 Buick Special here, that just manifested a problem here; the engine won't crank at all at ignition. It's got the stock starter, and stock 6V electrical system. I put a brand new 6V battery in last year, and I am sure the battery charged up fine. If I disconnect my trickle charger, I get 6V across battery terminals with a voltmeter. If I turn the key to the "on" position, the fuel gauge will jump up to a position, and then immediately will drift back to the left side. None of the gauges/meters will hold a position with the key at the "on" position. The car ran fine as of sunday; the only thing that was different last time it was driven was that I had to manually engage the linkage at the carburetor to get it to turn over. It would crank at the gas pedal, but wouldn't start. Now, neither method will even get the engine to crank at all. Any ideas? I'm fairly green on a car of this age...Thanks! -RJ