RichBad

Unfortunately I didn’t measure any on my recent build but checking the block, the rear bearing slot is 10mm wide. Not sure if thickness but I think it was square.

Where’s the fun in that:). Although my head is past done in! But I am learning something new. Also so needed something to staple the trim to:)

Hopefully:) can’t be worse than what it had before!

Thanks! Got the other side finished today - much easier than the first. Mike, photo below of the router attachment I used for the finger joints.

Just a router with a special bit - will take a photo.

Slow going but moving forward. Trying to get the rear tub finished up then I can make the doors fit in between the tub and scuttle. Not a straight line in it which doesn’t help!

That doesn’t look too bad, if clean it all up then re-assemble and adjust in the correct order and see how it feels and if you have too much play. Mine was a lot worse than that and I couldn’t get a good balance between not binding and not having too much play. I ended up having to polish the wear of the gears. It took ages and had to polish a bit, re assemble and adjust with some blue on the teeth - try it under load then strip and use the blue markings to guide where more polishing was needed. Took me about a week but worked out nice in the end!

I just had my springs remanufactured - I asked the guy about lubrications and he said not to oil or grease between the leaves unless they were designed for it. He said it will result in them being overloaded (resulting in premature degradation) and also takes away the inherent damping action of the springs. Not a great issue if you have shocks/dampers but the early ones don’t.

I think when the washer is part of the screw (but still loose) it’s called a SEM screw. So you have what looks like a Raised head countersunk Phillips SEM screw.

Got these recently of Amazon US - plenty of different types available just takes a bit of time to search.

Thanks Matt! I’ve been taking measurements and was going to do some patterns after the final fit when I’ve got everything right. I think they varied a little between body builders (mine is Holden, there is also TJ Richards and maybe a few others). I’m pretty sure the main body is identical between the 4s and the standard 6. All the info I’ve been able to find so far supports this.

Got the scuttle pretty much sorted and straight. Finished the A pillars and attached to main frame. B pillars done but not fitted. Making progress slowly!

If you can’t feel the vibes how do you know how fast you are going:)

Good to hear - Bob has been a legend at helping me out too!

No gasket on mine and ended up on the windscreen when it overflowed. Added gasket now all the overflow goes out the overflow pipe:)

I’m pretty sure they only had it between the body and the frame up to the front of the scuttle. I don’t think there was any under the front wings however (possibly because there’s less movement between the parts). However, on mine I put a thin strip of fabric tape - more to just stop damaging the paint so much.

You shouldn’t need any sealant on the gasket. I used none on mine and it’s fine although I did notice that I got a slight weep coming up through one of the screws so a little thread sealer may be helpful?

Thanks! Victorian Ash - not quite as light or nice to work as European ash but probably what they used to use in Aus and it’s pretty easy to get hold of.

Main rails pretty much done, just need to finish the outer edges to the correct front to back curve. Struggling with the scuttle but thanks to a few folks on here have some dimensions and photos so I know what it should look like. There’s going to be quite a bit of work to get the lines right on the scuttle and the alignment with the bonnet and doors.

It looks like the throttle 'butterfly' valve that locates in a separate housing just above the main brass body of the carb.

With Matt’s great help we made a metal press tool and made a handful of door guides in no time. They came up great. Also, made some progress on the front door stops - put one fold in, then used the shrinker to get the curved shape correct and when done will put in the last fold. Also have a pile of wood and have started on the main rails. lots of progress - thanks for your help Matt!

Yup, think I need a die and may try that rubber method but at 0.040/1mm may be a bit thick for the rubber forming.

Working on a few bits of the body metal that were missing. Made some rear door stops and some new door guides and rubber blocks but the guide contact pieces are being a bit of a challenge. Made one but it hasn’t turned out too well. Are the guide blocks/contacts a standard part used across models or are they unique to the late tourers? 2 old and 2 new door guides New rear door stop The door guide contact blocks and pads. Bottom one is my attempt but not so good and I need another 5!

Skin is off and the wood’s out. Lots to do!

Got all of the wood out now. I think the scuttle wood was original but everything else had been replaced at some stage and the main plinths more recently. Got some correct measurements and my lower plinths are both 1/4 thinner than they should be. Also, the scuttle uprights weren’t even attached to the main plinths! next step to strip/clean up the metal work and buy some wood.