David_Leech

1928 Standard Six Still on a six volt system. I think the starter cable is undersized or at least in poor condition and in need of replacing. Same with the chassis ground. It cranks too slow, barely sometimes. What size cables should be used on a six volt system?

I didn't take a picture, sorry, but it can be easily ground back into serviceable condition. It's back on and doesn't skip!

Got it off without too much issue. Obviously worn. Going to see if I can repair it. Handle and nut need work. Weld up and grind down. Luckily I have machinist friends! I could try myself, but they will do such a nicer job

Starter works, when I remember to leave the battery maintainer on it over the winter!!!

That is very similar to mine. Thanks. So the nut should just thread off then? I will try to re-grind it back into shape

1928 standard six Hand crank used to work ok, now it just skips over the teeth. How tight does everyone's hand crank fit the drive hub at the front of the crankshaft? Mine has become unusable because it slips so bad now. It was ok, but just got worse and worse. Not sure if it is correct for the car or not. I'm wondering if I knocked all the rust out of the hub it engages and that had caused it to loosen up and not engage correctly. Can anyone upload a pic of theirs for comparison? Does the drive hub come off the front of the crank if I need to file it back into shape?

So I just remembered I have the owner's manual. It says 4° before TDC with the timing control in full advanced position. I removed cylinder 6 spark plug and rotated the engine until the exhaust valve had just closed and the Intake was about to open. Turns out I wasn't far off setting it by ear. Slightly tweaked the timing so the points were open at TDC. Should have me pretty close, close enough for this anyways. Interesting how owner's manuals back in the day told you how to adjust your valves and set your ignition timing. Now they are just full of warnings telling you not to drink the contents of your battery

The old girl wasn't running great after pulling her out of storage this year. Decided she needed some ignition maintenance. I removed and repaired my distributor. It needed some maintenance and diecast repair (it's starting to fall apart). Took it apart and cleaned and lubricated everything. I decided to remove the pertronix ignition and reinstall the points as it's more for originality. New 6v coil installed and I set the points to 0.022". Now I need to set the timing. How is it done on this old girl? So far I just set the timing lever to full delay and then turned the distributor to delay the timing where it just started to loose RPM.i locked it down there. I can go full delay and full advance with the lever and it seems to run ok at either setting. This got it running again, but what is the correct procedure? 1928 Standard Six Thanks in advance!

Got it off with a 2 jaw puller. Took quite a bit before it finally popped. It was certainly over tightened. Ended up drilling a hole in the column for future lubrication.

There is a small hole in the column near the box, maybe my column is upside down? Nothing near the wheel though. Any pictures of this hole or maybe a location I could drill one?

What holds the steer shaft in the column?

28 standard six. I'm trying to get the steering wheel off. I have the nut off, I see the wheel is keyed. I have tried using a block of wood and a hammer from behind but it won't budge. I can't get it off. The bushing in the top of the column has gone dry and is squeaks. I just want to lube it. I even tried removing the whole column but I can't get it out of the box. What holds the steer shaft in? I can't figure this out without breaking something Any help?

I still haven't worked the hitch mounting out for the car. Hopefully a neat and tidy solution can be found

Fenders on. Had to narrow them to fit

Fenders don't fit well. They are getting trimmed down to fit. I hate to cut up such old tin, but they aren't exactly in great shape anyways and don't belong to any car at the moment. Oh well. They will live on in the trailer for a long time

Progress is being made. Fenders get mounted tomorrow

Change engine and transmission. Leave the rear end. Easier to adapt the driveshaft and you can run your original wheels. Just don't beat it up too bad with all the power. Will need to fit a new pedal cluster as they all.mount to the clutch shaft (at least on the left hand drive they do)

If you are driving a Tesla I will pay the gas no problem! It's nice but not in the budget. Thanks

That is beautiful! How much to deliver to half way between Toronto and Niagara Falls in Canada?

I can't believe so much time has passed since I started this project. Amazing how life gets in the way! Today I got the axle assembly and the wheels painted. The spokes are soaking up some linseed oil. They are original and very dry. Solid, but very dry. Here is to hoping they don't spontaneously combust! I still need to track down some inner tubes and mount my new-to-me tires. The bearings still look serviceable, so that's a bonus!

I like the convex mirror idea. I agree they are great. Once mounted, I will see how these work. I may have to find some convex mirror heads I like. Dropped my mirror arms off at a friend's fab shop to have them built up a bit. I didn't really like how close the hinge pin holes were to the edge. He is going to TIG weld around the mount to build them up for me. He has made a few custom parts for me to go on the Dodge

The mirrors came in today. They are very close to fitting over the hinge but just a bit too small to do it. There isn't much material I can grind off the mirrors, I might have to take a hair off the hinges. I will have to see when I have time to work at them properly. The pins they came with are also too narrow and the set screws are too close to the center, but this can be resolved. Cost too much to send them back and try again, they will work ok.

These are what I have chosen. I don't like the chrome ones. They look cheap and tacky. I don't know if these are really any better, but they don't stand out as much. 7" arms with 5" mirrors. Of a 30-31 AA Ford