Dave Phillips

Hi, I’ve followed many articles on this subject and I’m glad I’m not the only one struggling to find the correct solution to this problem, I was going to buy a new Zenith carb as above, but when I checked my Model 65 came with this carb, which is a Zenith but there are no other markings on it. The car starts and runs lovely but it is gutless and struggles to climb any hills. I’ve checked everything else and all is good. When you accelerate it seems to make a lot of sucking noise as if the choke is on, ( but it’s definitely not) I’ve set it up using some of the tips and original documents from this forum. The flange fits the manifold perfectly and the aperture measures approximately 33mm. Any help or advise would be helpful. I just want to be able to drive the car without any worries.

Hi, Many thanks for the information, as far as I am aware the car is standard apart from the carb was changed, as there was a problem with fuel evaporation, but I am sure the original bits are still with the car. I’ve tried to add a link for the website selling the car but my computer skills aren’t up to much. The company is called Thornfalcon Classic Cars and I found the advert on a UK site called Cars and Classics. If you’ve got time have a look and let me know what you think. Cheers Dave

Hi, I’m in the U.K. and a very good friend of mine has passed away. He owned a local restoration company until he retired about 10 years ago. In 2004 we visited the states on a car buying trip and he bought a 31 Cadillac town car, we brought it back to the U.K. and he completely restored it, body off, new pistons all chrome plated and new interior. The car is now for sale, and I was wondering what you guys thought would be the best thing to do with it, Option 1, to try the UK Auction company’s or Option 2, import it back to the US and try to sell it through the US Auction company’s. it been for sale at local classic car garage for a while, with no luck. Thanks for any advice.

I was very careful drilling it out , I made sure not to mark the plate at all, then I used some two pack glue to refit it, you would never know. I even drilled some spot weld marks before I painted it. I’m in the UK and once the car is registered over here, the DVLA (our DMV) are not really interested in old cars. We get free road tax and no inspections after a car is 40 years old, all you need to do is insure it. Stay Safe Dave

Hi, I’m no expert, but I couldn’t make out the numbers on my Fedco plate, but being fussy I didn’t want to mask it out to paint the dash, so I drilled out the 2 spotwelds from the rear to remove it, Then when I looked at the rear of the plate the letters and number were as clear as day, even though backwards. I wonder if anyone else has used this method. Cheers Dave

Hi, I’ve been sorting out my friends workshop and found these wheels, he is no longer with us so I can’t ask, I was hoping you guys could tell me what they fit. My friend has had Cadillac’s Chevy’s and Dodge’s in the past. Outside they measure 20 1/4” and the rims are 4” wide, 6 stud and 2 3/4” between studs and 5” stud to stud across the wheel, the hid cap would be about 7”. They are pretty heavy duty and the spokes are quite big. I'm in the UK and was hoping somebody could help, many thanks in advance. Cheers Dave

hi Hi there, I’m in the UK and I’ve been into Chrysler’s for about 20 years,( I’ve got a 48 Windsor as well) last September I finished the restoration of my Model 65 5 window coupe. I’ve just insured it again, even though there wont be any shows to go to. The guy at the insurance company said it would be insured on it’s replacement value. This is my question, I’m always looking for parts and information on 1929 cars but I can’t recall seeing any other 5 window coupes. So does anyone out there know of any cars like mine and if any have been sold in the last few years. I did get it independently valued and was very pleased with the amount, but if the worst happened would I find another one. Cheers Dave

Hi, I’m just putting my C38 flathead 6 cylinder back together and in the workshop manual the tappet settings are with the engine hot, how much do you guys add on for setting them when the engine is cold. Thanks in advance

Hi there from rainy old England, I’m giving my 1948 Windsor a winter overhaul, and I need some engine parts, I’m going to take the head off to replace the gasket and thought I might as well hone the bores and replace the rings and shells. I’ve ordered my gaskets from Olsen’s and was wondering where to get the other bits from. So any advise on purchasing engine part would be welcome. Many thanks in advance. Dave

Hi, From sunny England, I’ve just finished restoring my 1929 Model 65 and I had trouble reading my FEDCO plate. During the restoration I decided to remove the plate by carefully drilling out the two spot welds. Once removed I looked at the back and I could clearly see the centre two numbers that weren’t visible from the front. It maybe a bit extreme but this might work for you, I kept the plate safe and just glued it back on after painting.. Good luck Dave

Hi, I’ve had a oil leak on the pinion seal for a while, so last weekend I took it apart to replace the old seal with a modern one. On looking at the picture in my owners manual the diff looks to be a different design, the pinion is held in its own cage that screws into the front of the diff housing. I know the car is an early 29 could someone tell me if it’s the correct one. Also the teeth on the pinion are very pitted, I’ve attached some pictures and was hoping someone might have a spare one that I could purchase, I’m in England but would be happy to pay all costs, please message me if you can help. Here are the numbers stamped on the shaft 265-74577 10-28 Many thanks in advance Cheers Dave .

Hi all, I’ve now got my Model 65 starting well and the restoration is now complete, so I’ve been going on some short trips around the village just to sort all those little issues out. My concern is, it seems very sluggish especially when I come to any incline, I’m not sure how well it should go but it is a 6 cylinder and should have some torque, my 48 Windsor pulls all day in a low gear. My question is when the ignition is fully retarded on the steering wheel, in degrees what should the reading be and the same question for when it is fully advanced. I’ve made a marker for the crank pulley at TDC and using a separate 12 volt battery it enables me to use my modern digital timing light, but I can only guess what the values should be. Also there are two screws on the carb, one flat head screw in the side and one T bar down on the float bowl, any ideas on a good starting point for these two screws, I’m assuming one is idle mixture and one is fast running mixture. Hope this makes sense and someone can help. Cheers Dave

Hi, Checked it all today, all the above things were good. I did have some success tho, all I did was advance the timing by about 6 degrees and it fired straight up, I’ll leave it a few days and try again. i was told by an old guy to retard the ignition when starting and then advance it once it’s running, lesson learned, I might tinker with it and adjust the steering wheel control so it’s already a bit more advanced when the lever is in the up position. Thanks for all the advise, it’s great to have some help when you need it. In the U.K. we seem to have the same problem as the US the younger generation think 5 years old means it’s classic/ vintage. I’ve been to a show today in my 1948 Chrysler and we had a 2013 Ford parked next to us with a very load stereo.. Each to there own I suppose.. Cheers Dave in sunny Somerset

Ok, thanks for the ideas, I check it all tomorrow. Cheers Dave

Hi I’m just finishing the restoration of my 1929 Model 65, all is good apart from 1 thing. After the car has been left for a couple of days, it will not start whatever I do with the choke, ignition or throttle, the only way is to drip some fuel into a couple of plug holes, she then fires first time and is perfect until left for a couple of days again. It’s as if there’s not enough suck to get the fuel uphill to the head and into the pistons when cold. All the obvious are good like compression, the float level, electric pump so fuel in the carb. if any body has any tricks to get it started, I would love to know. Cheers Dave Dave