john hess

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Everything posted by john hess

  1. I just used some Upol Raptor bed liner on the underbody of my 53 pontiac. I think it came out pretty well. Any one else ever use this product ?.. Hope to be putting body back on frame soon. Product says to cure 3-5 days before use but this is not a truck bed !! Getting anxious anyway..... John
  2. Iam looking for a splash guard for my 53 l8 Pontiac. The one I need is located on the right side of the frame just below and slightly forward of the trans cross member. This is a 3 speed manual trans by the way. I believe it would have 4 mounting holes and a curved area that extends slightly under the exhaust and ends just before hitting the oil pan. The dimensions are roughly 16 x18. I have only seen one in a photo and it was not a good one. If anyone can confirm this with a picture of one I would appreciate it. The search is on for this is, I believe, the only piece missing in my parts that I have been collecting. ... John
  3. Nice , I'm jealous. My 53 is still hanging in the barn. Waiting to paint the underbody. John.
  4. Another vote for Librandi. Life time warranty a big plus. Parts were delivered on time as promised. I picked them up on site, but they were wrapped extremely well for shipping anywhere in the world. John
  5. Eagle killer. I used the aerosol cans.. Truthfully I wish I would have used a brush.. I will admit I went on the fast and cheap....(2 cans)...... Spayed outside on a windy day.... Paint covered but was too thin... Now it's starting to show the thin spots... OK cause I'm gonna drive it !! Body soon to go back on and then to paint shop. Hope this helps you make a decision. Good luck. John
  6. My bad., What I meant was vacuum line from vac/fuel pump ends at firewall also., John
  7. Lisa, here is a picture of my 53 in progress. The factory oil hook up is just In front of the fuel pump, behind front motor mount plate. There is a1/8" capillary tube that goes back along the lower edge of the valve covers and turns up and ends right about at your throttle bracket on fire wall. The vacuum line carb to wiper motor ends here also. Hopefully I can post picture for you. I also installed a gauge in the block to monitor pressure without a working dash.. john
  8. Welcome to the club. I understand your motor is loose. I would focus on getting it to fire with gas from a bottle like you said. I think that sound of a motor wanting to come back to life is the best motivation to continue on. I also see you have a good helper... Keep us informed. We all have been right where you are at some point..! John
  9. CRHere is my recent Hirsch paint. blue/green 1940/57 except bonneville. Hopefully picture will load for you. John
  10. I use Honda Bond for gasket sealing... Works for me... No leaks on my recent rebuild.... Also just put some type of grease on wear surface of cork before installing.. Honda Bond should be available at your local auto parts store... John.....
  11. Iam looking for a splash guard for my 53 l8 Pontiac. The one I need is located on the right side of the frame just below and slightly forward of the trans cross member. This is a 3 speed manual trans by the way. I believe it would have 4 mounting holes and a curved area that extends slightly under the exhaust and ends just before hitting the oil pan. The dimensions are roughly 16 x18. I have only seen one in a photo and it was not a good one. If anyone can confirm this with a picture of one I would appreciate it. The search is on for this is, I believe, the only piece missing in my parts that I have been collecting. ... John
  12. Forgot to tell you, your picture of the weight, shows your heat riser flapper in the hot, open position. Look at my pictures again and make sure your spring is on the right direction. They can be put on backwards ! John
  13. Did you have the intake/exhaust apart? 4 bolts . 2 reasons why I ask. If you or PO had them apart, it is possible they get misaligned, and this can cause uneven indents on new gaskets as you are seeing. It's a balancing act kinda to get both pieces to seal. I installed new gaskets at both points. Just snug up intake/ exhaust halves(4 bolts,2 short ones ,2 long ones) then install manifold to block (10 nuts) Tighten to specs, then tighten the other 4 bolts. You may not actually need any machine work done. Carb removed makes this easier too!!! Also you will be able to see if your heat riser at this point to verify if it's working properly. If you saw my pictures, I meant to tell you that the one with the weight rolled clockwise was in the 'hot' open position. Hope this helps some. John
  14. See my post July 20. 53 pon l8 heat riser help. Photos are there. John
  15. Sorry. Can't get photos to transfer. Will keep trying. John
  16. It looks to me as if your heat riser is open by position of the weight. Look at the slot on the shaft on the spring side and compare to attached photos. These are my recent repairs. If your weight has not spun on shaft, it is open as shown. Trial with torch on my repair has confirmed open and closing properly. I see you are missing a stud on exhaust. As for the oil bubbling, make sure the stud is not leaking from water jacket. I had that happen also.
  17. I have the same issue with a recent rebuild on my 53 l8. I am thinking that a rich running carb and a non working heat riser may be my problem. Raw gasoline saturating a new gasket and eventually has to boil off. My intake runners were wet when I removed the manifolds. I have recently repaired the heat riser and have not started it yet. Waiting for new gaskets. I will post results as soon as possible. John
  18. I am looking for a pair of rocker panel extensions for a 53 chieftain 4 door. Also right and left dogleg for same. I realize this is a long shot, but who knows !! I am 45 minutes from Hershey, so if anyone out there reads this and knows of anything, I would greatly appreciate any leads... Thanks John.. jph435@gmail.com
  19. Thank you for your reply. I am in the rebuild stage of my body off frame project. Like most projects, this one started as a 'l'll just fix this oil leak' job and turned into a 'since I have this off, I might as well do this too. ' I have been following your build in progress and look forward to meeting you eventually. Thank you again for your response and all the information you have been providing for all of us.
  20. I am looking for a splash guard for my 53 l8 Pontiac. The one I need is located on the right side of the frame just below and slightly forward of the trans cross member. This is a 3 speed manual trans by the way. I believe it would have 4 mounting holes and a curved area that extends slightly under the exhaust and ends just before hitting the oil pan. The dimensions are roughly 16 x18. I have only seen one in a photo and it was not a good one. If anyone can confirm this with a picture of one I would appreciate it. The search is on for this is, I believe, the only piece missing in my parts that I have been collecting. ... John
  21. I think I might have found the problem. Bad plug on #1 and also #8 exhaust valve too tight after warming up... John
  22. OK guys. Need some help here. 53 l8 is acting weird. #1 cylinder is misfiring. Changed plugs. Changed wires. Put timing light on all wires and all are firing consistent. #1 will only fire sporadically. Swapped wires and plugs from another cylinder. Same thing. #1 misfiring sporadically, so it's kinda tough to set timing. I am thinking distributor worn and shorting out on #1. Any ideas?.…...... John
  23. I would like to let everyone know that this is my first attempt at a restoration. It is being done on a very very low budget as I think I am like most people who first get started. I am doing this in an unheated old drafty barn which I share with numerous critters. my skills are limited, but I feel adequate for the task at hand. This is certainly a learn as you go experience, and I enjoy every minutue of it. Enough said for now. Here are a few pictures of my attempt at rust repair in trunk floor.
  24. I would like to let everyone know that this is my first attempt at a restoration. It is being done on a very very low budget, as I feel I am like mo
  25. Bloo thanks again. Did some trial and error. Think I got it where it should be. Works fine with torch heat. Opens and closes as it should. One other thing I didn't ask was, is there any preload on the spring? I have 1/2 revolution on it now. should be enough to hold for exhaust flow since this isn't possible on bench test. I realize this isn't stock spring but it works till I get original style. Here are some pictures so far. The small wire you see is just some welding wire jammed in to keep flapper from spinning while testing. Will weld in place when I'm happy with operation.