john hess

I would open the cap on the carb front.. (2 Phillips screws) the metering valves are in there.... you are supposed to add a few drops of oil to them occasionally.... should say that on the cap. Also, check the function of your heat riser valve. exhaust manifold will have a small shaft through it. hopefully it turns.. it will have a small crescent moon shaped weight on the front. it should rotate about 90* there is a spring on the other end of the shaft... (should be).. if not, and the shaft moves, you can roll the weight clockwise towards the block... this will manually place the riser valve in the warm engine position... lube all your linkages... the simple things make a big difference. check for intake manifold leaks.... that will make for difficult trouble shooting idle issues.... one thing at a time and keep us posted.

glad you got it figured out.. lots of help here on forum....

if I need metal work, ..... ???.... yep, nice work !!!

little over 6000 on mine.... still like new.... no babying them either... got my shoes from napa I think... just matched them by dimensions... I think they are for a 79 bronco....

sounds like you been drivin it like ya stole it.... good on you,Phil !

sorry no... but I'll keep an open ear..

the pin is a tapered pinch fit... I would take the pin out and clean up the mushroomed sides and re-install. no need to mushroom the end, just tap till snug... if you are further than this on the rebuild, I would leave it 'as is'.

I'm sure it would work on sand... great beach recovery vehicle...

always amazed how quickly someone identifies parts and responds to questions in this section ...

I know that feeling.... good for you.... it only gets better from here !!!!.... looks good, sounds good... keep plugging away and keep us posted...

bloo, great idea on marking for all cylinders. I'll do that. I was wondering how to check for distributor cam wear without a dwell machine.... thanks... John

thank you for saving this piece of history

AACA library opening this year had same thing.... all age cars welcome, no fees..... good show.... only looked at what interested me.... hope that one becomes an annual event..!!

I'll stir the pot some.... 22 years and Teslas will be eligible.... I think it's all relative to your own age mostly.... just get out and enjoy the shows... no one is forcing you to look at everything....

sorry... not worth anythjng..... clean branches from around it... plant some flowers..... use as a backdrop for some photo shoots with older cars, pickups, motorcycles....

I like your thinking... did same with my 53 pontiac tank. strapped it to my fnh 1920.... 3 handfuls of driveway stones... low gear,low range. 1 hour forward, 1 hour reverse... shake out stones... rinse.. dry in sun... install.. add gas.. drive.

use low air pressure, blow back through fuel line to tank... line could be plugged internally or screen could be clogged.... Happened to my 53... rust plug in fuel line... would idle all day, but when taken on hiway would shut off when shifting to 3rd gear... every time !!!... new sending unit with screen and cleaned out tank... problem solved..

look and post here in the forum under Pontiac Flathead Owners... someone sure to help you out. I unfortunately do not have the amber insert in mine.... just chrome

wd40 in the key hole... contacts could be corroded or just dirty... cycle switch many times, quickly, to help clean contacts....

when you call CPR, ask for their catalog.. has lots of parts numbers and some illustrations of small parts .. a great reference piece.

also, if you make a new tube, it should not bottom out in the hole. As bloo states, it needs to draw hot air for the choke bi-metal spring to open the choke...

sorry for the delay.... dimensions for the bearing loader # J 1334 are 7/8" x 6 29/32" .............

it will say "high compression"

automatic transmission usually has hc head.... should be forged in head left rear corner top...

what bloo said.... we both post at same time.....