36 Dodge
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Posts posted by 36 Dodge
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13 hours ago, psychostang said:
The only issue with these tubes, is that eventually they crack and let exhaust gases into the carb. This fills the choke housing, including the little shutoff piston with carbon. That's usually why the choke gets stuck. Put your hand there, while the engine is running and see if any gases come out.
I think you are correct because before I disassemble it I could feel air leaking and that is why I asked if there was a way to cap it. I will put it under pressure and see if it's leaking. Thanks!
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18 hours ago, RivNut said:
Here's a picture of a 63 Riviera engine. I don't have the software to label or circle parts of the picture.
The carb pictured is the Rochester 4GC but it's plumbed the same as a Carter AFB. I'm calling the back of the carb 12:00. At 10:00, a rubber tube comes from the neck of the carb an ties into a metal tube. That metal tube goes around the exhaust manifold and inserts into the 'nipple' you questioned in the picture that you posted. Coming off of the top of the manifold is the other end of the tube. Inserted into that tube (the other end of the 'nipple' tube) is a steel tube that runs to the choke where it is bolted to the choke housing. (On this engine, the sheath around the tube does not extend all the way to the exhaust manifold. ???) Cool filtered air enters the rubber/steel tube and travels through that tube, the tube inside the exhaust manifold, and the sheathed tube to the choke. The heated fresh air is what causes the coiled bi-metal spring inside the bakelite choke housing to contract and open the choke.
The piece of the exhaust manifold that has a spring and counter weight has nothing to do with the choke operation. When that flapper is closed, it forces exhaust gasses up through the intake manifold to warm the bottom of the carburetor during cold weather operation. Once the coiled bi-metal spring on the counter weight heats up, it will open the flapper and the exhaust gasses pass through the pipes. Your paricular flapper is a separate piece that bolts between the manifold and the exhaust pipe. In some applications, this flapper is built into the exhaust manifold.
Thanks for the information. When I purchased the car the previous owner had replaced the original carb with a Eldelbrock, I don't like it I am already searching for a Rochester.
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1 hour ago, RivNut said:
No need to cap it. It's a the botyom of a tube that runs through the exhaust manifold. Outside air goes through it to provide heated fresh air to the choke. It should have a steel tube on the other end, sheathed in an insulating material, that runs to the choke housing. A rubber tube goes from the air horn on the carb to the end of the tube you're questioning. That is the supply for filtered fresh air to be heated.
Doubtful that is the source of your leak.
Thanks for the lesson, the shop manual doesn't show much. Again thank you!!!
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So I have an exhaust leak on the passenger side and I found a nipple on the manifold that is open, can someone please tell me what it's used for and is there a way to cap it? Thanks in advance!!
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20 minutes ago, msdminc said:
Marco, the other one is a return line to the tank. It is for AC equipped cars.
Rock On
gord
That's what I thought. Thanks!!!
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Just now, RivNut said:
I think that you'll find them almost anyplace you look. But the newer ones are slightly smaller in diameter so they don't clamp down well in your bracket.
Thank you, I will look into it!! Unfortunately it's my daily driver and it started to run rough today after a hard stop, so I think the easiest thing to do first is replace the fuel filter. Since the local parts stores in my area does not stock the original style I wanted to know if the universal style would work by eliminating the vapor return line.
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3 minutes ago, jframe said:
A/C equipped cars carried a third port for a vapor return line back to the tank. However, I capped the vapor line on mine and run a standard two port filter. When I hook up the vapor line, it develops a pretty good stumble under heavy throttle off idle, so I capped it, and the stumble disappeared; no effects so far.
Thank you!!! I thought that it could be eliminated but wasn't 100% sure.
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Time to replace my fuel filter but I noticed that the original filter has three hoses. I know that one is from the pump and the other goes to the carb but what is the third one for? Can I eliminate the third line and use a universal 2 hose style filter?
Thanks in advance,
Marco
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2 hours ago, jpage said:
According to my march '36 parts book all standard front fenders fit all of the passenger car models. On the welled fenders there is a note. All welled fenders up serial number 4112531 are the same but there is a change after that number. My book shows that the fender numbers after serial no.4112531 are new parts for 1936 which indicates to me that the earlier cars may have had '35 front fenders or there was a production design change after that number. Sorry, but I have no idea what that change is or how you could identify a particular fender. It also may have nothing to do with fitment. Make sure that it fits before you make the final sale and heed 35cz8's advice as most of the mounting hardware is very difficult to locate. Good hunting.
Thanks Mr. Page! It's a complete set that also includes the tire cover.
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7 hours ago, 35cz8 said:
Pickup fenders are different but the passenger cars should all interchange. I have a set of twin side mounts and they came off a 4 dr sedan and fit on a coupe just fine. If the price is fair and you want it, I would say go for it. Just remember, there is a lot more to a side mount spare than just the fender and you will need the hardware and mounting parts for the hardware. If you have all the right parts, it is not a hard job to change out the fender. Drop me a note if you need some photos of the needed parts to make it right. Good luck
Thanks! It does come with all the hardware and the tire cover.
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25 minutes ago, keiser31 said:
I believe they are the same fender for coupe and convertible and sedan..
Thank you! I guess what I should do is measure my fender first, the only problem is the car is about 100 miles away being restored.
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I have a opportunity to pick up a passenger side mount fender but before I spend the money I want to make sure that it will fit my 36 4 door sedan. Can anyone tell me if the fenders are universal through all 1936 Dodge models excluding pickups? I was informed that on Buicks the fenders are different lengths depending on the model and after hearing that I am concerned that it might be the same on the Dodge cars.
Thanks,
Marco
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50 minutes ago, TexRiv_63 said:
Another thing to look at, are all the bolts holding the regulator and slides tight? IF not it is possible it is out of adjustment. You need to look at a factory service manual which will show you the linkage.
Thank you!!! I will do that.
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On 6/3/2018 at 10:01 AM, TexRiv_63 said:
First thing to check is dirt/rust/lack of lubrication on the regulator linkage. Unfortunately you will need to remove the seat and side panel to do that. Do both sides if you go to that work, I'll bet some oil and grease will work wonders.
Thanks and sorry for the late reply. I already tried your suggestion but it still doesn't go all the way up! I might have to take it to the shop if I can't figure this out.
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Does anyone know what can cause a rear electric window not to shut all the way? It was working fine before. The window goes down and back up to that point with no problems. I would appreciate any help.
Regards,
Marco
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1 hour ago, jpage said:
The first photo shows the configuration of those parts as they are on the car. There should be a very thin flat spring in the same shape as the thin piece that goes between the thin piece and the thicker outer piece to keep tension on the rod. There are 2 of those angle pieces, one for each side and they are both alike. The thick rectangular block on the left side makes up for the firewall recess.
Mr. Page,
I assembled the parts I had on pic one by looking at pics that I took before taking it apart and everything looked good until I found the thin piece that is on pic two. If that is a spring tensioner and their is supposed to be two I guess I am missing one. As always thanks for your help!!!
Marco
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1 hour ago, nearchoclatetown said:
The Dodge Brothers club has a tech adviser for '36's. He owns an original car that he can send you pictures of. Look in the front of the newsletter.
Thank you! I will take a look.
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Hello,
I need help identifying parts that I removed about 17 years ago. I will post parts as I find that I don't where they go.
The first part is part of the throttle linkage bracket but I don't know what side it goes on. The part is very thin maybe about 1/16" thick.
Thanks,
Marco
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24 minutes ago, Taylormade said:
Did you keep the original motor? I had a 50 Wayfarer Sportabout that had a frame so rusted out it was useless. I found a nice 241 Red Ram Hemi and was going to install it over a modified frame with modern suspension. Then I found my first car, a 32 Dodge Brothers, and sold the 50 and my 48 Plymouth to pay for the all-original restoration of my 32.
I figure most people listen to about half of my half-baked ideas and actually implement about ten percent of them. ?
Yes I did keep the original drive train. I struggled for a while with the brake and clutch assembly, everyone I talked to said to go modern but like I said before I want the car to have the appearance of it being original as possible. So I came up with this idea.
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This is the modified steering column using a steering column saver and the new u-joint at the end. The u-joint still needs to be welded on but I have to first cut the shaft down by about 4". I will then powdercoat the column and finish restoring the steering wheel. If anyone is wondering how much I cut off the Steering Column it was close to a foot.
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On 9/28/2017 at 9:01 PM, Taylormade said:
I know when I took my 48 Plymouth steering column apart, that was what was in there - a rubber strip as I described. It makes sense - how could you install a grommet unless you took off the steering wheel? And you'd still have to stretch it over the larger horn base of the column.
Taylormade,
This is a mid 30's car which is different than your 48 Plymouth. Another thing is that you guys didn't know that I have a Mustang II front suspension with rack and pinion and it's air bagged. The reason I don't much talk about this is that I want the car to look as original as possible with the exception of the front and rear suspension and some people won't bother helping when they find out that your car has been modified. I had to modify the original steering column also so that it attaches to the rack and pinion steering. What I want is when someone looks at the car they will never notice any modifications except for the car sitting low. I will post some pics of some of the mods later but I will post a pic of the column even though I'm not completely done with it. Before I forget I was not offended at all by your comment, but you did sound like I wasn't listening to your idea! Hahaha.....
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I want to thank everyone for their advice! They are all good ideas and now that I know that no one reproduces what was originally installed I will try one of your ideas.
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On 9/29/2017 at 3:11 PM, Gunsmoke said:
My '31 CD8 Chrysler has a molded rubber semi circle pressed into each piece. The rubber is not loose, but stays with each piece when taken apart. Makes a snug fit to column, but is not squeezed. If you remove your part and check the surface of the semi circle, it may suggest just what was there originally. Mine when installed shows about 1/16" of rubber all around. I'll post a photo shortly. added: here are pics of mine, the grommet is about 1/4" thiock and recessed into clamp with about 1/16" lip showing when fitted together. Also note each semi-circular rubber piece interlocks with the adjoining piece, although this is never seen when assembled. Your parts may suggest just what your missing.
Gunsmoke,
Thanks for the pics. On the 36 it is smooth so I guess since no one reproduces what originally was installed I will try what other members have suggested.
Regards,
Marco
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On 9/29/2017 at 1:16 AM, knobless said:
Try a large rubber grommet, slit one side to get around column and hide the slit on the bottom, gas tank filler neck is large enough to use as on exterior fill necks , 34 Dodge, along with others are available, good luck,
Interesting idea. Thanks!
Riviera Exhaust Manifold Question
in Buick Riviera
Posted
With my bad luck it figures that the tube is bad! Besides welding the ends shut does anyone have any other suggestions? And like I mentioned before it does not have the stock carburator, the previous owner replaced it with a Eldelbrock carb.