BuicksBuicks

Las Vegas Dave hit the nail on the head. The link that opens is actually a crude slow-blow fuse that heats up and opens when the battery is low; without it a weak battery will turn the relay coil into a 23 ohm heater. Since I don't want to open up the clock anymore I will be adding an external slow-blow fuse, maybe one or half amp. There is another fuse on the back of the clock; in my clock someone replaced it with a 20 amp. Not knowing what the original fuse rating was I figure that I can get along with a 2 amp and see what happens. The re-soldered link has now been soldered with modern 63/37 solder which probably disables its original fuse function. Some current measuring comes next to see what the minimum drain is with the dash lights on. Thanks all for the comments!

...well not really. There is no recall. However this is the second time I've found a broken solder joint in a 1937 Buick clock. It's not easily seen so I've attached a photo of the repaired solder joint. The "wire" used in this connection is extremely stiff and springy and almost certainly the cause of the fracture. I first came across this problem around 1962 with my first '37 Special; now I've come across it in my latest '37. Just thought I'd throw the info out in case anyone had given up on their clock repair. -Pete

Its going to depend on the mechanical layout of your filter can. I bought a used filter on eBay that had a horizontal mounting flange; with my 37-48 having the battery under the front seat, there was plenty of room to drill and tap the frame opposite the coil and to bolt the filter to. Its just an alternate way of mounting a filter other than to the engine.

The files show as photos unfortunately . Maybe someone can let me know how to attach these JPG's . If I can't figure it out you can email me at stateasylum@yahoo.com and I'll send them out.

Not having a car worthy of a critical judging I can offer a bit of originality that may or may not add to your entry. Attached is a pair of files that will print two-sided "A" ration ID's for your windshields. The files will print eight ID's, printed on letter size matte photo paper or some other heavy paper. These are identical to the originals and I keep one in the windshield of my 37 Buick.

In my 37-48 I ran extra wires to the front fender lights and tail lights. For the front lights I installed amber LED's and for the tail lights, added sockets and incandescent bulbs. When I took my first 37 Special for NJ state inspection in 1963 I was asked to show left and right signals. I did, and with hand signals. The inspector didn't appreciate the hand signals and proceeded to yell at me, "don't be a smart ass!".

I don't recall when alcohol was mandated in gas but if there is some of this mixture in the tank, there's a high probability of tank rust. If there's rust it will find its way to the carburetor. My 37 Buick sat for years with this alcohol gas in the tank and necessitated cutting the tank in half, sand blasting, and coating. There was enough rust in the tank to fill two small milk containers. Beyond that I love your new car.

The 39 Roadmasters had the trim.

To clarify my starter engagement issue, the vacuum switch has long been disconnected and a starter button installed under the dash. I haven't removed the flywheel cover and hope that I won't need to what with my physical restrictions. With a mirror on a stick and an LED flashlight I've looked at the flywheel through the timing hole and although damaged, it doesn't look terrible. The engine has 68K miles on it so its not an engine that has been heavily over used or started. Thanks to Bloo for informing me about the threaded adjustment of the solenoid plunger linkage; that's something I will certainly look at next; its something that I can do by simply removing the solenoid rather than pulling the entire starter. For now I've ordered the starter gear and on the next somewhat warm day I'll pull the starter and hope for the best.

I guess there's little doubt that I've got to pull the starter out. One big reason for my hesitation is severe arthritis in my hands. To save time I just ordered a new starter gear from "Bob's"; it surprised me that these are still available! It may get up fifty degrees over the next few days so I've got to get moving..

You may not elect to do it but twice I've had Buick heads/valves rebuilt for free at a local automobile trade school. The work is monitored and "approved" by a licensed instructor. These schools are always looking for work projects. Luckily none of my valves needed replacement; that would have been a problem.

My 37 Special has problems engaging the starter at times. I noticed that there is about 1/4" end play in the solenoid linkage to the starter engaging mechanism. The play is strictly in the "hinge" of the solenoid plunger. If I get rid of this end play the starter gear will have an extra 1/4" of penetration to the flywheel. I really don't want to pull the starter but it looks like I'll have to; I just don't want to mess with something I should have left alone. Working outside in a New Jersey December isn't the most fun. The flywheel is worn but not to a critical stage; I haven't looked at the starter gear.

I also noticed that the steering wheel is a horrid yellow. But if you look carefully at the spokes in the steering wheel, there's an extra bend just behind the horn ring. Other than that this is the same model as my first car that I bought as a teenager in 1961. It cost $60 then and I split that with a friend. These days I drive the 4-door model of the same Buick.

I've had/have two 37 Buicks and a 39 Buick, all of which had door key locks on the front passenger door only. What's the rationale for this?

Marty- You have a point that I hadn't thought off. The tires are new 6.50 x 16 Goodyears from Koker. I never gave a thought to the diameter. They do look larger than the pre-war 6.50 x 16's that I used many decades ago. You've solved it Marty- tnx.

The speedometer and odometer in my '37 Buick Special read very low. At 40 mph the speedometer reads about 33 mph. Its a solid mechanical link from the universal and up the cable to the speedometer so that couldn't be the problem. Could it be a weak magnet in the speedometer coupling? Does Buick even use a magnetic coupling? Has anyone else had this problem? I hate the idea of climbing under the dash and disturbing the ancient wiring behind the speedometer; I just hope to avoid it. Pete

I was not able to drive my 37 Special for more than six miles without overheating. Even after just five miles the engine would boil violently when the engine was shut off. Yesterday I used Evapo-rust and ran the engine at high idle for two hours; it didn't overheat. After draining the black crud from the radiator and block and filling with water, I took it for a test drive. It was a drive up all of the hills I could find locally; I sat in traffic; nothing I could do would make the engine temp even rise above the mark well be!ow the 180 degree point. In other words, the Evapo-rust WORKS!!! I'm now confident that I can take the Buick out for long rides without overheating. I have no connection whatsoever to the makers of Evapo-rust.

Just a photo of a Model T that I took while in Alaska a couple of years ago. Some people just like to keep them original and unrestored.

The guarantee for my Buick clock was good for one year and after that it would “be put in new condition for $1.50 plus return postage” according to the little card found in the glove box. The clock was in my 1937 Buick and the year was 1967. For owners of 1937 and possibly other Buicks of the era you might want to look at what’s in your glove box. That’s what I did fifty years ago and sent my Buick clock back to Buick along with $3, the extra $1.50 for postage; that was when I was just out of the Navy in 1967. Buick kept their word on the guarantee and had the clock put in new condition twenty nine years after the guarantee expired. Buick released the story to the Associated Press and from there it was broadcast on several major news stations. I also had a phone interview with the then Newark Star Ledger who printed a nice article about it. Buick didn’t actually manufacture the clock but a company that had been acquired by Amphenol. It was Amphenol who did the full restoration of the clock including the water damaged reverse painting on the glass dial face. They truly did put it in new condition. Amphenol wrote up the story along with photos in their company news magazine. For owners of General Motors cars from the ‘30’s, check your glove boxes; you may just have the same guarantee card. In my “new” ’37 Buick that I bought several months ago the guarantee card was also there. This current clock is now eighty years old and the guarantee expired seventy nine years ago. Do I dare do this stunt once more? No, I think I’ll just let it go by, after all the clock does work at times. Nor do I recommend that hundreds of antique car owners send their clocks to Buick.

Took the '37 out to do grocery shopping while the '06 Jeep was being serviced. It would seem that the Buick is more reliable these days.

My wife and adult daughter are terrified to ride in my '37 Buick 4-dr. since it has no seat belts. Although I'd like to install belts I would rather include shoulder belts also. It's not a pristine show car but a driver with typical wear and age. I would like to hear the general consensus on seat and shoulder belts. Anchoring a shoulder belt would not be a simple task in this car and is what's holding me back.

I’m new here so this is my introduction. My name is Pete and I’m in north NJ. I bought my first Buick as a teenager, a 1937 Special 2-door for $60 in 1961. Not a lot of miles were added when I had it since I did a lousy job of replacing the universal joint gasket and the car leaked transmission oil rather badly. Several bolts in engine were also snapped. One thing I did do right as an inexperienced teenage mechanic and that was to replace the transmission mainshaft gear; I located a ’38 in a junkyard and bought that transmission for parts. The Buick was sold in 1970. Around 1968 I found a 1939 Roadmaster Formal Sedan, six wheels. It cost $300. The only problem with it was front wheel bearing with a shattered ball separator. In 1976 it was sold to a NYC limo service since I no longer had a garage for storage. Now that I’m a senior I’m reliving my youth with a 1937 Special 4-door in great shape- almost. Past owners had used modern gas that had alcohol and thus the gas tank filled with rust, making the car appear to run out of gas every five miles. Now the tank has been cut open, sealed to prevent further rust, and resoldered. The Buick has also been converted to 12 volts. I drive it almost daily around town. The pics are of my '37 in 1961, my "new" '37 Special ("New Tires"), and former '39 Roadmaster Formal Sedan