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Leeroy

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  1. Ok, so finally pulled the speedo out. Is an "AC" by Spark Plug Co. The back is similar to yours Ben. It's obvious where the speedo cable goes :-) I've ordered the drive cable and gearbox end, not sure about the speedo end, it's unclear if the drive cable comes with any ends from the description/pics - https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommerce/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=181 I'll have to wait and see.
  2. Thanks Vintageben! It does look like I am mistaking the reset screw lol, first time doing this for me :-) I think I should pull it out from the Dash and take a better look, and yes the speedo housing is in the background of one of the pics, it was connected to the trans, but just tied up with wire behind the dash. Thanks for the pics, it has really helped me understand it better.
  3. Hi Guys, Finally working on getting my speedo working, when I purchased it, it was missing the Drive cable and end. I've been trying to work out what I need to purchase from https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommerce/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=181 I was hoping someone with better knowledge than me could help me out :-) First pics are from under the dash and the transmission. Next are the dimensions, they are approx. and all in millimetres. These are the options from the site - https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommerce/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=181 So far I think I need the FLX062 Drive end, as it has the closest Shank Diameter of 3.81mm, then having a 4.75mm ID, i'd be using the FLX054 Drive Cable, but then what do I do at the speedo end, where it has a 6mm OD, but the FLX054 has an OD of 4.75mm? Do I need another end? Any help pointing me in the right direction would be grateful :-
  4. Hi Guys, Well the Maxwell is going well, starts good now, last drive I did I noticed when I got back a bit more oil dripping than usual, did about 20kms, so presumed just nice a warm. Today I started it up and as I reversed back I could already see a line of dripping oil, stop took a look and it's coming from the drain hole from the Flywheel? Thought I might just have leaked in there since the last drive so took it for a 10 min spin and got home, still dripping. What's your thoughts? The 20mk trip is the longest I've done since owning it!
  5. Well finally got the drums thermal sprayed, look good !
  6. Hi guys, found some numbers on the passenger side under the seat, it part of the frame that supports the seat. Any thoughts on what they mean?
  7. It's off ! :-) Couple of minutes of oxy heat on it and BANG! It only moved about an inch.. Very happy its finally off! The Thermal Weld guy came by to take a look at the drums too, he's quoted $300 each to build back up! It wont look original the way he said his company would do it, one weld feed would be stainless and the other copper, providing durability as well as heat removal. This is the first quote I've had, so going to look for some other options. But at least I know worst case. Anyone is South Australia have any idea's on who I can go to? Cheers
  8. Thanks guys, hopefully have an oxy to borrow on Saturday, will update then.
  9. Haven't got back to the starting issue yet, but have put in new spark plugs and a new Optima 800CCA battery, then sort of moved onto the brakes :-) Haven't even tried turning it over, but will get there! Just thought I'd share the below pics, I picked this up for $20 !!!!! Plan is to rebuild this one, as it looks in better condition than mine, rip the venturi out and machine a new brass one up.
  10. Thanks Guys, using a puller, and have searched through the posts. Below is a pic of my setup, the puller is that tight I cannot physically tighten it any more with just the 12in shifter, would need leverage. Squirting RP7 / CRC in key way everyday, but its probably bound up closer to the back of the drum/hub. Tried plenty of hammer :-) Still waiting to borrow an Oxy, if that fails, I did read on here someone put the wheel back on with the axle nut wound out a few times and went for a drive doing lots of circles :-) Might be worth a shot.
  11. The other side is still on because I cannot get the bugger off! I have a puller on it, as tight as I can get it, bracketed to the studs, been hitting it with a copper hammer, squirting RP7 in the end, and have tried heating it with a heat gun. No luck, the nut was so tight I had to hit the spanner a few times with a hammer to get it undone. I think it might be rusted together on the tapper. Waiting to borrow an oxy so I can heat up a section quickly, so it expands.
  12. No worries, thanks, the other side is still on, I'll check out the shoe clearance. But your right, going back to the original diameter will probably be fine. Cheers
  13. Ok, so if I end I up getting the drum metal built up, what thickness should I go? Should I stick with the 4mm of the outer edge, or should i beef it up to 5-6mm ? I'm thinking beef it up. But how much?
  14. Thanks JV Puleo, I believe this is the post - I've googled Metal Thermal Spraying in my area and found a place, have emailed them to see if they can do it. http://www.laserbond.com.au/services/thermal-spray/more-about-thermal-spraying-technologies.html Cheers
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