Jump to content

CHuDWah

Members
  • Posts

    1,470
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by CHuDWah

  1. 38 minutes ago, machias88 said:

    I believe this a 1931 Model A because it has wooden spokes, but I would truly appreciate someone with a lot more experience weighing.

    Thanks so much in advance. I truly appreciate!

     

    No Model A had wood spokes.  Your picture is a center-door Model T which puts it before 1928.  I'm not knowledgeable enough about Model T to tell you more, but I'm sure the experts will be along soon.

    • Like 1
  2. On 4/6/2024 at 6:56 PM, TerryB said:

    Having easy external screw access probably explains why no key lock is included 😀.  I guess security wasn’t as big an issue back then. Times sure change.

     

    Many pre-WW2 cars, and I think some postwar ones as well, had outside handles with external screws.  Usually the lock was separate and below the handle, so removing the handle would not unlock the door.  Often there was an outside lock only on the front passenger door with mechanisms to lock other doors from the inside.  Dunno if it's true but I've heard some states had laws against exiting a vehicle from the driver (i.e., street) side, for safety reasons I suppose.  I guess the idea was to lock all doors except the front passenger from the inside, then slide across, exit the passenger side and lock that door from the outside.

    • Like 2
  3. On 4/6/2024 at 11:07 AM, JoeShmoe said:

            This exterior door handle came along with a set of 1939-46 Chevy / GMC truck interior door handles. I thought it might be for similar trucks, but I think I'm wrong from what I've seen. Lettering on the backside says "T.A.P.Co" and there is also a very small symbol way on the end that may be a stylized "M" but could be a elephant profile. Any help identifying it appreciated! Thanks.    Joe G

    I'm thinking late-30s MoPar - they used the teardrop base and variations of the ribbed pattern on different years/makes/models.  Ford handles tended to have oval bases and were stainless crimped over steel instead of chrome.  I'm not that familiar with other makes so all bets are off if it's one of those.

  4. 1 hour ago, Scott Bonesteel said:

    Confirming again, 39 Plymouth.  The square headlights are a giveaway.

     

    Yep, specifically a P8 Deluxe 4-Door Touring Sedan.  The trunk bulge makes it a Touring Sedan and the cheaper P7 Road King doesn't have the vent wings in the front doors.

     

    The 39 is a popular model with Plymouth collectors - looks like there could be some salvageable parts there.

    • Like 1
  5. What does the decal on the shelving unit say?  It may have been used by a dealer but I question whether it was Ford authorized/supplied.  It's pretty plain and I'd think Ford would have used fancier labels than the handwritten stickers.  Are any of the parts script?  Ford put his name on pretty much everything Model A, especially during the first two years.

    • Like 2
  6. 1 hour ago, kramaton said:

    Changing tags might not be legal in some states. 

     

    41 minutes ago, ABear said:

    Couple of reasons to leave the original tags in place.

     

    #1 In most places, changing/altering serial number/VIN plates is prohibited. There are some vendors that specialize in reproducing data plates, but they do not generally sell those to public, they only can be purchased by a auto refinisher shop and typically those tags will also have a marking indicating they are replacements.. Not worth it.

     

    #2 As you mentioned, finding someone to stamp/engrave new plates will most likely be a bigger problem, called fraud, refer back to #1 above.

     

    #3 Only YOU the owner sees those "rusty, crusty unreadable tags" as they are not typically viewable from the outside of the vehicle unless it is a firewall mounted tag and you drive and show the vehicle with the hood up.. But even then, having a brand new flashy tag under the hood on a 25+ yr old vehicle just screams "look at me, I am a fake"..

     

    Let's get something straight right away, I am NOT encouraging fraud.  Certainly, one must adhere to the legality (or lack thereof) of replacement tags.  That said, such tags as well as stamping/engraving services are available, and not just to restoration shops.  Now relevant to the OP, the Model/Body/Paint/Trim and red oval tags are firewall-mounted on prewar MoPars.  They have nothing to do with titling/licensing the vehicle, at least not in the states with which I am familiar.  The serial number tag identifies the vehicle for such purposes and it is attached to the door opening of the passenger-side cowl.  In the interest of legality, I can accept a "rusty, crusty old tag" in that relatively inconspicuous location.  But if it's as unreadable as the OP, what good is it for identification?  In any case, I think those "rusty, crusty old tags" on a shiny firewall spoil the aesthetics.  YMMV.

     

    32 minutes ago, alsancle said:

    Don't forget #4.  Those original plates are part of the provenance of the car.   If it is a valuable car I guarantee you it is less valuable with the shiny plates.

     

    A consideration, but whether it makes much difference on a C-16 Chrysler is debatable.

    • Like 3
  7. If one is restoring a car to like new condition, why leave rusty, crusty unreadable old tags on it?  Anyway, I know the serial number and the red oval tags are reproduced, but I'm not sure if they are the Canadian version.  The model number tag also may be available new.  Sorry, I don't have source(s), ask Mr Google or The Duck.  Also try eBay and the antique MoPar parts houses.  If you find the tags, the next problem is finding someone to correctly stamp/engrave them with your numbers.  That may be the bigger problem.

  8. On 3/30/2024 at 6:54 PM, Mark Wetherbee said:

    The base she is on has a hole just behind her that looks like a good place for lamp wire. I don’t think it’s got anything to do with a hood ornament…

     

    I missed that.  The wire on the lamp that keiser posted is hidden except where it goes under the base and into the lamp, presumably the rest runs through the figure.  The hole in the OP figure's base looks pretty big for a lamp wire and I can't see any way to hide the wire.  I have a lamp like the one below.  (It's the silhouette of a pine tree in case you're wondering.)  Note the socket in the base for a small candle-flame-shape bulb.  There could have been a similar socket in the OP figure's base and a bowl, box, etc in her hands.

     

    lgM27293X10-7.jpg

     

    (it's the silhouette of a pine tree

  9. These pics are from a 2013 article (https://www.fordmuscle.com/news/video-one-owner-1965-t5-in-germany/).  At that time, this car was a one-owner original T-5.  The pic doesn't show the front end but it appears to have standard trim except the T-5 badge replaced the Mustang script on the side.  I'd guess the car in the OP pic was customized with removal of trim - it also appears the bumper was painted rather than chrome like an original T-5.  In any case, the V289 emblem would not have appeared if the car was a 6-cylinder.

     

    T5-01.jpg

     

    T5-02.jpg

    • Like 2
  10. On 2/29/2024 at 7:30 PM, Pomeroy41144 said:

    Stock bucket is modified on the sealed beam conversion, not replaced. 

     

    I undid the unattractive sealed beam conversion on my 37 Ford.  It was literally the first thing I did to the car.  

     

    By the way, the 37 Ford in the OP was listed on my 1937 Ford FB page.  Very little detail there either. 

    .

    .

    .

     

    DSCF6386.JPG

     

    You are correct as to the bolded - I meant the rim was replaced.  Dunno why I said bucket - senior moment I guess.  :D

     

    Yeah, I've never seen a sealed beam conversion that was attractive.

  11. 1930 Model A Ford Sport Coupe.  Sorry, no pix.  When I was looking for a car many years ago, my aunt remembered she used to work with a guy who drove it every day.  Dad and I tracked him down.  It turned out he was an alcoholic but still had the car.  It had been sitting in his yard for years without a top, rust in cowl, quarters and floor.  The under-seat tool pan was just a big hole.  The rumble seat cushions were gone and the front seat was in tatters with a colony of bumblebees living in it.  The guy's kids had packed the radiator full of mud and we eventually found the frame was warped.  We paid too much but at least the sheet metal was straight except for the rust, most of the unique SC parts were there, and it had a title.  The landau irons were missing but we lucked out and found a pair at the first swap meet we went to.  All this was back when original parts and quality reproductions weren't unobtainium with prices to match like now.  It took 20 years off-and-on but we did a ground up restoration.  This was pre-internet and Model A has been researched a lot more since, so we made some authenticity mistakes.  But Dad was one of those guys that could do anything he put his mind to and we learned a lot as we went.  So the car turned out pretty nice for a first-time amateur attempt, nice enough to always trophy in local shows.  The only problem was we never could get it to run cool, no matter how much we flushed it, tinkered with timing, whatever.  After Dad passed, I lost interest.  I no longer had him to enjoy the car with me.  So I sold it and got enough to cover our out-of-pocket cost.  We had lots more invested with our labor but those memories are priceless.

    • Like 2
×
×
  • Create New...