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1924 6-55 Sport Tourer

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Everything posted by 1924 6-55 Sport Tourer

  1. I am after a set of side lights to suit my 1924 Sport Tourer. A number of years ago i purchased a set of head lights and these side lights from the States, as they were cheaper at the time than what it would have cost to repair the original head lights for my car, and i did not have any side lights anyway. However, they are for a closed car and i need some for a tourer. They are in excellent original condition although the nickel has rubbed through in a couple of places. I am not really interested in selling these as it will leave me with none again. But these are good enough to go on your car as is. I would be keen - if possible - to swap these for a like set of tourer ones, or if i had to, buy a set outright. Bearing in mind, and going on my recent dealings with electroplaters here in Australia, it will cost me between $300.00 to $400.00 aud to get a set nickled. David
  2. The restoration of my 1924 Sport Tourer is progressing nicely. The other day i came across these surplus bonnet latches/catches. I have been gradually collecting these to be able to create a set for my car (which i have, and already have had nickeled). So these are surplus to my needs, and therefore am offering them for sale to those to help with their own restoration. The complete set of four are the same as for my master. The set of three i believe are for a standard, and the incomplete set of three are parts only. Please feel free to contact me if you're interested. Set of four $60.00 aud Set of three $30.00 aud Parts $20.00 aud. Postage to be calculated David
  3. Leif & Larry, Thanks for your responses. I've just enjoyed 9 weeks overseas and now catching up on all the forum stuff that i have missed. Leif, surprisingly the clear glass insert fits very well. You would think it was made for it. As mentioned in my earlier post, i am running Ash wires and i just wanted two tail lights for symmetry ( as it cannot be centrally mounted ) and safety. Thanks again, David
  4. Just stumbled across this thread, and the question asked, at the time, was about "adding this as a brake light" on their car. When i bought my '24 6-55 sport tourer, it was missing the tail light. My car has Ash wire wheels and uses a centrally mounted spare wheel carrier. Therefore to me it was a "no brainer" to run 2 x tail lights ( one either side of the carrier) and to wire them as a combined tail/brake light. The rational behind this is because for symmetry, and the fact tthat motorists these days are used to seeing 2 x tail/brake lights on cars (and to help protect my investment). It took me a couple of years but i eventually was able locate a matching pair of Buick Type - A lights complete with the "large style" Buick (master) enamel badge. One is for a standard and appears to be a NOS badge. One thing i have noticed is the difference in the lenses . Some are deeper set within the trim ring and one is a clear lense with a distinctive "bump" for the globe. Has anyone else noticed this before ? I can send more photos if you wish. David
  5. Interestingly, my '24 6-55 sport tourer has one fitted as well. I have already restored the dash unit and plan to attempt to get the unit operational again. I know. Is it worth it ? I am more curious to see just to see what it does or does not do. 🙃 From what i can gather, the "brake" part of the unit, starves the engine of fuel and in turn the engine acts like an engine brake on a truck ! 🤔 Unfortunately, the 3/4 inch rubber hoses were perished on the engine compartment side of the firewall and there are no obvious fittings on the engine to indicate what they attached too. So, if anyone has any further information out there (operating or fitting instructions) iwould be pleased to get a copy. I have seen numerous petrol savers at swap meets over the years, so they must have been reasonably "popular" aftermarket accessory. Trying to upload an exploded photo of the head unit, but i keep on getting an error. If i succeed i will post again. David.
  6. My opinion - none. You want the body to flex with the chassis. I dont believe that any adhesive was used "back in the day". Prove me wrong. If the frame is too tight, stresses occur which will lead to undue damage to the panels/paint. Rabbet joints with screw fixation is all you need. Respectively David
  7. Anthony Congratulations and well done. A great find to see a "time capsule" car. I especially love the rear window. Dont forget to keep us up to date with your progress. Remember, it is only original once, so, if i could give you any advise it would be to not "over do it". David.
  8. 27 donb, You seem to be stuck on the fact that this "teal"colour is the product of"weathering". If this colour we see today is the end product of nearly 100 years exposed to the sun and elements, what colour do you believe was it originally? I am also curious how would you explain that 2 unlike materials - paper and steel - could end up the same colour after all this time ? My photos dont show the writing that well (due to the reflections on the glass) but if you zoom in you can still read the words quite clearly. What i dont know for sure is, what gauge face colours were offered by Buick when these cars were new? Hopefully others out there can add to the discussion with either photos of their cars as fouund or literature from Buick. All i am showing is how my car presents today. I too am sure that "any paint suppy store could match that color using modern tools and techniques so that the gauge faces could be refinished as original". Now, if only we new what colour it originally was. Respectfully, David.
  9. G'day, For those that are interested, here are some close up photos of my original instrument cluster. The "teal" colour is strong and not likely to be faded due to weathering. The switch cluster is totally unusable due to the pot metal disintergrating, but you are still able to clearly read the screen printed paper face. David.
  10. 29 StudiePrez, From what i have gathered from the forum, the Sports Tourers and Sport Roadsters had the dash face that were upholstered in the same leather as the rest of the car. The pattern i believe was called " Whale grain". I would have thought that if Buick were to have "white" instruments fitted, it would have made sense that all gauges should be white too ! , until i too can see photos to the contrary this will remain my belief. The ckoke plate had an infill of either a faded red or a maroon. I belive that this will match the infill on the steering controls as well. Hope this helps, David.
  11. 29 StudiePrez, I asked the same question back in May 2017 and never got a clear answer. FWIW, this is my dashboard of my car as found. Clearly you can see white instruments with black writing. The clock and speeedo were missing 😟 (as obviously someone wanted them more than me), so we can assume they were the same. The curious part is the "teal" background colour. I have not seen this in any other photos, although i have seen alot more of the more common "gold" colour. I do now have a complete/matching set of instruments, but they are now black faces with black/white gauges. Good luck with your searching. David.
  12. Hi again, As i previously stated, i agree 100% that the water tube on my car is incorrect (as it most likely has been repaired sometime throughout it's life), interestingly though i find yet another Australian car with the same/similar water tube! Maybe it was a common repair or replacement here in Australia should the original rust out. The part i find interesting is that there a two 1924 Sport Tourers with similar water tubes 🤔 here in Australia. Although you cannot argue against the many 100's of photgaphic examples to the contrary, available here on the forum and the World Wide Web. David.
  13. Kevin, When new, most belts were made of a material that stretched over time. Thus the need for adjustment to keep sufficient tension on the fan pulley. If you elect to use a "modern" belt that does not/will not stretch, in effect you do not need adjustment for the fan pulley. Two options 1. Fit a leather belt (more period) that will stretch over time, or; 2. Take the current belt back, exchange it for a longer one, so that you are happy with the "position" of the adjuster. Problem solved. David
  14. Kevin, This is the set up om my '24 6-55. This is how it was when i stripped the car down and works perfectly. Try moving the spring mounting bolt to the left. David
  15. Thanks for both of your replies, and i agree 100%. My water tube is solid so i see no need in replacing it (and i quite like the look of it too). If once the car is completed and i'm not happy with it/looking for another project 🤔 i might replace it them. Time will tell. David.
  16. 29StudiePrez, You are most likely right. I'm only showing what is on my car. I dont think it looks outta place, but comparing to photos i have seen here on the forum mine looks "abnormal". I have nothing here in my State to compare it too. What i am sure about is the lack of nickel plating. David
  17. Morning guys, As promised, here are the photos from my car. Three hole cover with threaded holes in the flywheel housing. No provision for a felt seal around the bearing cap. Engine number is 1137213. I hope this helps. David.
  18. Ok, To add a bit more confusion to the discussion. This is the water tube on my '24 Master. I cannot confirm whether it is original, however you will note that the "rear" of the tube is square. Additionaly, i see no evidence anywhere of nickle plating. If the tube had been repaired over it's lifetime (that's a possability), the three "legs" look to be factory and - as mentioned - show no signs of nickel plating. David.
  19. Hey guys, I know that my 1924 Master has that plate. It is night here at the moment, but i will get a photo tomorrow and post it for you all. David.
  20. Think about it laterally. You cannot have too much oil at the rockers. What i would check is the rocker shaft and supply lines. Mine (1924 - 55) was choked with gunge. You claim that cleaned sludge out of the sump, therefore some of that sludge is likely to have made it to the supply lines and settled in the rocker shaft. It's no big deal to remove the rocker shaft now and the supply lines and clean them. It will be well worth the effort (and piece of mind) David
  21. Tinindian, My question exactly. If the linings are woven - you should not have any issues. Bonded linings are another issue. David
  22. If you replace the pump, you will be substituting it with another 90 year old one that is most likely worn just as bad. For my car i just had new gears made. It wasnt cheap but it solved the problem. David
  23. Mark, It is a two stage mechanical tyre pump. A common accessory of the day. They can be found on many cars. David.
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