Riviera 66

I was very pleased with the service when I bought a centrelink core from Rivi Central. They shipped it for me to Rare parts and they sent me a rebuild one. Took about 3-4 weeks total before I received it.

Thanks but I just made a deal with Rivi central to refurbish one at rare parts for me.

Hi. Anyone who has a 66 riviera centerlink they would sell me (norway) ? I can send my old one to Rare parts for refurbish but it will be very expensive and time consuming with shipping both ways as I would like to use the car this spring. Bregd Thomas

Finaly on the road. 1966 with 67 grille

Anyone has a picture of the felts / fuzzies installed for the 66 riviera? and who sells for the 2nd gen.Riviera?

I am about to replace the headliner on my 66. Since I had the car sandblasted the cardbord over the front and rear windshield for stapling the headliner on is gone. Anyone replaced this ? Type of material you used and was it only glued on to the metall? Any advice appreciated😊

Hopefully I get it back together and opertional for the summer :-)

Thanks to all for your help? Tom : do you have a web page or an email adress just to get some prices etc? Brgds Thomas

Tom. I dont have the 2 groove pulley for the waterpump. I post a picture of the crack highlighted the crack with a marker. I dismantled the "new" motor today to prepare it for cleaning. The crank on this motor looks very good so I would like to re-use it. Is the adapter you mentioned the only thing I need to use the 66 sp400 trans? If so do I need to have this adapter fitted before I send the crank for balancing? I will need new pistons as well as I will bore it up to get it right this time..

Hi. I am living in Norway so there is the is probably more freight cost than part cost? I have new cam and all valves guides lifters and adjustable rockers put into the cracked engine. I bought all parts from m.russel centerville. I was breaking in the cam when I realized the crack? my plan is to get the "new" block checked honed or bore it if necessary and balance the crank assembly and put over the cam etc. I will see if I can get a picture tomorrow. I'm sure we can work something out regarding the 2 groove pulley.

Hi. I think i will swap the crank from my cracked engine. The crack is about 2 inches long over the rear valvelifter to cyl.#7 leaking water into the engine and it is very close to the lifter oil galley. This engine has 0.040 overbore and with welding I suspect the cylinder walls will be damaged? Thanks

Hi I need some help identify a 425 engine I just bought. The reason I bought this is because my block is cracked and hopefully this block is ok :-) This engine has original bore and has almost no wear in the cylinderwalls :-) The problem on this engine is that there is no number or letters in front of the valley pan. The block cast says B1364704 which indicates a 63-66 One head has cast no. B 1374603 E and the other one 1196914J The engine has the lifting pad eye at the rear. The crankshaft is different from my 66 425 as my flywheel want fit and I have a 66 SP400 I am planing on using. The engine paint is all gone but it looks like it has been painted blue on top of silver on the intake and heads? also there is only 2 grooves on the pulley at the balancer. Anyone who can tell me what year this is and is the crankshaft for a dynaflow ? If so can I machine my flywheel to fit the crank and use the sp400 trans? Brgds Thomas

Thanks for all input :-) I probably will redo the bushings as RoadShark did in order to not get any more issues later on. I was playing around with the door alignment for 3 days and it looks quite good except for the gap to the rocker , also the stainless trim on the driver door was lower than the passenger door. I do not know if that is from factory or if it has been adjusted as the car was repainted some 20 years ago.

Hi , I just fitted the exact same set of bushings on my 66 riviera - unfortunatly before I came across your post. I installed the 2 lower ones in for the radiator support , the 4 middle ones under the cowl and the 6 remaining in the rear. Obviously the new bushings are higher then the old ones but I suppose I can live with that. Lowering the car down to the frame they all touched the same time without any shims required. So far so good. My problem is to get the correct gap between fenders and doors due to the low bushings I used in the front , I made spacers to put on top of the radiator bushings 1 1/4" (30mm) high in order to align the fender/ door gap. I know there was factory made spacers of appr.1/2" on the old ones but still I think this is a bit strange.The driver door has an even gap of 3/16" in the aft to the quarter panel but of some reason I am not able to get an even gap under door to rocker ( about 3/16" aft and almost 1/3" in the front) Maybe it is acceptable or not I dont know? Passenger doors fits perfect. Did you have to put any shims / spacers into your radiator mounts to line up your fenders? Please have me excused for any wrong spelling (Norwegian) :-)