keninman
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Posts posted by keninman
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I went with the year of make also. Apparently back then in Indiana there were a front and back set, but I could not afford any of those.
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On 2/12/2019 at 12:54 PM, marstini17 said:
i need the steering wheel levers and horn button for a 28 dictator ge,, anyone have any ideas,, also the door bumpers
I would think that these would be nearly impossible to come by. Are they completely gone or just broken? I wish you the best of luck if they are gone.
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I imagine others here know about this but I just learned about it today. Pretty cool, there is even a video produced by Studebaker using the car.
Watch the video here -
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I pm'd with him, he said it will do 55mph. I contacted him because he has the same engine as mine. I am having an issue at high rpm. The car looks solid to me but I don't know how negotiable on price he might be.
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This is in Indianapolis. He is asking $11k
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/379602302775339/
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Hope you are back on your feet soon.
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I have to use either through windshield wiper port on the intake to get my 29 to start in the winter. I got it out last week and drove it once and it has set in the drive uncovered ever since. Now I need to take it for another short drive and put it away again.
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Here is the article from Southbend with a picture. https://www.southbendtribune.com/news/local/history/studebaker-license-plate-will-be-available-starting-jan/article_48b36ad3-81c8-59d7-99fa-5b5ba9dd76e7.html
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These were under the front seat of my 29 Dictator when I bought it.
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So long as you were honest and up front you have a clear conscience.
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I keep mine under weatherproof car covers. Here where I am the wind comes across the field to the south and will destroy nearly any non-permanent structure. I have had good luck with a Duck Covers brand for my 29 Stud and I am testing a Coleman for the 1970 Siata (mostly because I could not find a Duck Cover small enough).
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You are probably wise to remain in the South as the weather up here can be quite unpredictable and sometimes downright cold. If however you feel the need to chill yourself to the bone I might suggest the museums around Auburn, Indiana or the Studebaker museum at South Bend, Indiana. If you do come up to Hoosier country let me clue you in that, North Vernon is south, South Bend is north and a French Lick isn't what it sounds like.
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Sometimes it is too dangerous to make something run again. Imagine watching the Kee Bird burn after all of the man hours and work to get her into the air again.
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If they had put the hydraulics under it and tiny little tires I'll bet ya it would sell in minute.
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Indiana -
No Title
In a vehicle sales transaction, if there is no title for the vehicle and one cannot be obtained, a bill of sale is required and all signatures must be notarized.
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wire it so you can make the headlights alternate back and forth like a police cruiser and pulse horn like a modern car alarm. Also you will need a fog machine for effect. Wait until your victims are in front of the garage door, leave the garage completely dark until the door is up (you might need to remove the door opener bulb if you have one) then start the lights and horn. If you have a strobe put it farther back in the garage and kick it in with horn and lights.
P.S. You can always blast Kiss's Christine Sixteen for effect thought the kiddies won't understand the connection.
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I think these steering wheels are actually a steel core with a bakealite or some such molded covering. It should still be safe even though cracked I would think.
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12 hours ago, Tinindian said:
My Pontiac cut out occasionaly when I first stated driving it, was caused by corroded connections at the ammeter.
Shudder could be castor, camber or a broken spring leaf.
Even with a high rear end ratio you should be able to drive 55 fairly easily without the cutting out and shudder.
This one isn't occasional, as you get to about 45mph the engine gets very rough, missing and unless you let off the accelerator you will actually begin slowing down. I have had the springs and front end off of her last year, the springs and king pins are fine but the steering joint are sloppy. I tried to do some adjusting but it did not help.
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I asked this question in the Studebaker forum quite some time ago. In my GL Dictator (1929-30) I have never gotten it over 45mph. My engine starts to cut out at the higher rpms. I might be able to tune that out, I don't know but perhaps a valve job, new points and cap may make the difference. Even with that being said when approaching 40mph the car develops quite an alarming shudder. It's not constant but comes and goes as you travel. I usually take the back roads where my top speed might be 35mph so I don't get launched over a humped intersection, break a wheel in Hoosier pot hole or simply vibrate the car to pieces from poor road patching jobs. The car sounds good at 30-35mph, the engine seems to be tuned for this speed. Incidentally, 1929 was when Indiana raised its speed limit above 30mph. Of course the federal government would impose a national 30mph speed limit to save fuel during WWII.
I also have recently acquired a 1969-70 Siata Spring that uses the Fiat 850 engine, transaxle and suspension. I did run it at 55mph on the highway once but the tach was showing 4200 RPM in fourth gear. I suppose this is okay since I believe the speed limit at that time was 65mph but this might be excessive for a nearly 50 year old engine. One consolation is that in this tiny car 55mph feels like 110mph in a modern automobile, it's kind of like comparing a mini-bike to a Harley Davidson.
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Sometimes this generator would show charging for a short while at idle right after starting the engine. I went for a short drive a couple of days ago and the generator began charging for a little while then stopped again. It kind of made me think it had something to do with temperature.
I was doing a bit more troubleshooting of the generator and I found that if I connected a test lamp across the armature to field terminals the generator would begin charging, unregulated but at least charging. I then started playing with the voltage regulator and found that I had not checked the contacts of the current regulation coil. The current first has to cross the current regulator contacts before going to the voltage coil contacts to feed the generator's field wiring. I found that these were not making a good connection because when I wiggled them charging began. After a little filing of the contacts I am charging again. I had to adjust a bit on the voltage coil contacts mount because when revved the voltage climbed and held about 15 volts. I have that down to about 14v now.
Apparently it was never reversing polarity, what was happening is that when the current was interrupted from the ignition switch to the field winding because of the dirty or burned contacts at the current regulator, if you then pushed in the bat coil contacts the armature began drawing current and acting as a motor instead of generating current since it had little or no voltage on the field windings.
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1960s engine and oil be like "you gotta change it every 3000 miles" 2018 engines and oil be like "you might have to change it every 7000 miles and the engine will let you know when"
I should mention that my 29 Studebaker's manual said you need to change the first time at 500 miles and every 1000 miles after that unless you are using the choke a lot then back to 500 miles. Also most did not come from the factory with an oil filter.
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6 hours ago, Dynaflash8 said:
Benefits? What? The stuff is worse than awful
https://www.afdc.energy.gov/vehicles/flexible_fuel_emissions.html
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I would have to respectfully disagree about the antifreeze. There is too much information about it loosing its corrosion resistance and actually causing corrosion if it is not changed at recommended intervals. In my 29 Stude the thermostat spring had completely rusted away in spots. Also when I pulled he water jacket cover I found a great deal of scale which I flushed out.
https://www.cars.com/articles/how-often-should-i-change-engine-coolant-1420680853669/
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In my 1929 Studebaker, in hot weather the ethanol laced fuel will boil in the fuel pump. I add diesel to my gas and also installed an electric fuel pump. If the engine starts but then quickly runs out of gas or just seems to run out of gas while driving I engage the electric pump and all is good.
I am not against ethanol, there are far more benefits to it in the millions of contemporary cars on the road. The responsibility to find work a-rounds falls upon our shoulders.
Just bought me a studebaker
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
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I'm not sure about the 27 but if the carburetor is anything like the one on my 29 Dictator 6 then the old pot metal is like thin glass. I believe it might break just staring at it too hard. Mine is a Stromberg UX2, you can see the repair I had to do after trying to remove the drain plug. I have coated the inside of it with Red Kote tank sealant. It has never leaked nor has my JB Weld softened. You might be able to soak the accelerator pump leather back to life with some motor oil.