keninman

Did you ever discover why the rod failed? I tried to test the compression this afternoon with a push in gauge. Since its rubber was too small for the plug hole I built it up with electrical tape. I could not hold it in with one had while engaging the starter with the other. It would just blow it out of the hole since one arm was not enough to hold it. Out on the road I have a couple of issues. I am going to have to check more on the front end and balance the wheels, it is real shaky above 30mph. The engine is pretty smooth to a point then becomes very rough as rpms increase. I took out all of the plugs, they are very old and found one did not fire even when I swapped it to another I have not checked on the back brakes yet. The front I have cleaned and adjusted. The seal leaked on the passenger side and though cleaned the linings were soaked with grease. It takes all of my leg power to stop very quickly. If something were to run out in front of me when I was doing 30 I would probably run it over. I have new plugs I am installing this evening to see if the engine improves. It runs fine at low RPM but misses and shakes at higher rpms. I hope this helps but I fear I may have to take the carb off and clean it thoroughly. I will also check my front wheel bearing to see if I got everything back tight when I reinstalled Saturday. Right now 40mph is a hard top speed.

Just wondering what speed people normally operate these vehicles at. 35 seems pretty fast to me.

I realize this is an old post but I just wanted to comment that the Michigan title that came with my 29 Dictator used the body plate GL W-1 2960 as the VIN. I had to have a police inspection because it was and out of state title and the Sheriff's deputy used that number. Also the Indiana BMV accepted it without question when I transferred the title to myself. The serial number plate is very legible but no one ever asked for it. From what I understand form my reading here the body number would be unique to this vehicle so would be appropriate.

Sorry it took me so long. I wanted to clean this up a bit so I could take pictures. It doubles back at the spring shackle end and there is some sort of wedge that secures it. It is a very heavy woven strap of what I believe is cotton.

What is red oxide primer I myself have never used it but always have used the gray primer. I have seen it plenty of times and that is what the color under the dash reminds me of but a little more brown.

The paint is actually Army Green Rustolium. I think the strong halogen light made it look lighter. It also caused a lot of glare on the inner fenders.

I imagine that anyone who uses a Folgers coffee can for a gas take is a real mechanic not just a parts changer. It looks like you have your work cut out for you. I have a similar tag as yours and it is just above the steering column on the firewall. I was thinking that the brown in my pics look a lot like red oxide primer. It is kind of odd to find it under the dash unless it is original. I have included pics of my tag, also some of my repaint so far. I am not sure that my engine color is close but it was the only olive I could find without paying $50. I am hoping it will cure a little darker.

When I look at mine, I would think that heavy strap used on a quality ratchet strap would work. this one is 13" long x 1 1/4" wide x 3/16" thick. You could double the strap until you find the correct material.

I have been doing more cleaning this morning. I found that the frame once I got through the layers of grease and dirt was a glossy black. The oil pan appears to be galvanized it is such shiny metal. I checked the firewall and found another color under the black. It might only be primer but a similar color is under the dash area and behind the kick panels. I will include pics.

I looked under the rear seat but the stencil is in too bad of shape to read much. The only writing is in the pic below. There had been squirrels or other animal that left behind a lot of shells from acorns and such under both the front and rear seats. I imagine this animal or animals caused the scale rust that destroyed the stencil. I used the shop vac to clean up the shells and nests. Now I have poison under the seats.

My first was a 65 Chevelle, 194, 3 on the tree with a hole in the #6 piston. I had never really worked much on anything older than my 62 or 63 pickup, I can't remember the year exactly I did have a couple of 55 Buick Specials but I did not really drive either of them farther than off of the trailer and ended up scrapping them. My dad was actually 2 years older than this car but ma is 4 years younger than it. BTW that is not my roadster I could not afford anything like that, its pic is only to illustrate the absinthe color, same with the silver pine Toyota. Mine is the blue Dictator. Also here is my engine and firewall.

As far as the firewall goes, I really do not think this car's firewall has been repainted. The engine is rust and the transmission is almost undistinguishable as to color. I have read that the firewall should be the body color but this one is flat black. The body has most likely been repainted and I am unsure what color it originally was. I guess I am going to have to chip some paint somewhere. From my documentation blue was not even and option on the 29 dictator, nor was all black but I find that hard to believe. Someone has been after many of the undercarriage parts with undercoating but it is in pretty sorry shape. I will say that it seems to have done it's job and prevented much rust. I just finished cleaning the front axle and I have no idea what color it might have been. I could not distinguish between the road tar, grease, dirt and paint. I just took it all off. My intention now is to paint all of the undercarriage gloss black, the engine and tranny, Studebaker olive green and the car some shade of green with a black top and fenders, etc. I have seen that 29 Dictators could be silver pine but I really want to see this color first. I think I might more like the 30-31 colors like absinthe or catona green though I really need paint swatches. I want to thank everyone for their input. I was not born until 65 and I do not remember a single car older than the 40s other than at a parade or car show. Below is my car now, an absinthe green Studebaker and a silver pine Toyota.

Pretty shiny paint. I am using Majic tractor, truck and implement enamal with a hardner.

I don't know if I would want to run on it everyday it us straight enough for a spare. I used my torch, Hercules Rim Tool and a lot of elbow grease. I just kept putting it on the wheel and marking the high spots. Eventually I had it good enough to install. I then put an old tire with a new tube and flap on it. I hope to get another new Universal tire eventually but for now my pocket book says this older tire will have to do since buying 4 new tires, 5 tubes and flaps has ran me out of cash.

Tinindian, To look at it you would think it is pretty straight. However it is warped enough that it will no go on the wheel. I have tried stretching it using a jack and 2x4s cut in the diameter of the wheel. The lock does not want to stay closed either. Unless some place has a jig, I thought I might be able to make one using wood and a good rim as a template. Of course I would prefer to find someone who has a good used wheel they would part with for a reasonable sum.

Well, changing tires I damaged one rim now I don't have a spare. Does anyone know where to get a used one. I am not paying $200 + to Coker or Universal for a new one. Of course if someone knows how true one back to straight again, even better.

What I originally had in mind was whether to use gloss of matte finish for the undercarriage. Since I am not removing the body, everything is going to be the same and I believe I will go with a gloss implement paint for durability and ease of touch up. It does bring up another question though and that has to do with the door posts, and the edges of the doors, etc. On mine the post and other surfaces only visible when the door is open are black all of the way down. From what I can see under the seats, these areas are black as well as the wood part of the floor and I am pretty sure they were not repainted. The wood spokes are black and have probably been repainted but in the brochures the spokes are always painted the body color (I plan to paint them this way). BTW, thank you all for the help. I have a much better understanding now than before.

I finally Googled pics from the Studebaker Museum. It can be tough to find pics that show the undercarriage but from what I can see these parts seem to be matte black.

I believe the undercarriage is black. Is it supposed to be matte or glossy?

Studeq, I am only going off of what the owner told me the car was. I will say though that I have seen it and it is BIG.

Yep it does indeed have a steering lock. That was a big selling point back in 29 to reduce insurance cost. From the original 1929 owner's manual- "Lock Your Car If your car is stolen you may have to miss an appointment, ride home in a train or trolly, or give up that motor trip. You will have to do without a car until the insurance company settles, the car is recovered or until you can get delivery of a new car. You may not lose a cent if the car is covered by insurance, but there’s the nuisance of filling out insurance blanks, to say nothing of loss of time, temper, patience and possible damage by a joy rider. Locking the car is part of parking. BE SURE TO LOCK YOUR CAR. The greater the number of cars stolen the bigger the insurance rate you pay. Stealing of unlocked cars is frequently but an incident to some more serious or terrible crime. Why help the criminals?"

I thought I might post this. These cars belong to a retired minister, 88 years old who is selling off the Studebakers he has collected over the years. I purchased my 29 Dictator Six from him. He still has three left to sell. A 1926 Big Six that is in good condition. A 1950 Land Cruiser but I think he would really rather not sell it and a 1963 Lark sedan that was purchased as a parts car but he ended up driving. He is very forthcoming and honest about the cars. I would love to have purchased the all but alas, lack of funds and space intervened. He is in Vasser, MI, that is just north of Flint. The ad is https://saginaw.craigslist.org/cto/6097460713.html. His grandson or grandson-in-law is handling the selling but will put serious inquiries through to Max. The cars are located at Max's home and he is who will do the dickering. At 88 he is still getting around pretty good and showed me around his collection and shared the stories behind the cars. He is not a restorer or dealer just a lover of Studebakers. He bought his first long before I was born. I am sure he would like to see them go to people who would appreciate them.

If I get the numbers where would I get the keys made?

I haven't bought one yet but there are parts interchange books that show between models an manufacturers. Maybe that might make locating an assembly easier.

This is a twofold question for those who might know. 1st off I assume the steering lock and door handle are the same key. Unfortunately I don't have a key, fortunately neither are locked. So for my first inquiry can a key be made for these and how? Second the outside lock is on the passenger door. I might think that someone moved the handle except that all of the other doors have inside lock actuators except the front passengers' (the one with the key) does not. I have seen in many old movies and television shows that people enter and exit the vehicle on the passenger side. Was this custom, just Hollywood, or did the manufactures attempt to condition people to do this? Thoughts and info appreciated, Ken