• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

22 Excellent

About frededwarrds

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. To hidden hunter. I can’t offer any particular kind of answer. I think the people above are right about earthing. My anecdote was with the actual turn switch. Unbeknownst to me there was a tiny idiot light inside of it which would feed back and all the turn lights would flash; which ever way you turned the lever. I removed the light and all was well which educated me on how little power LED lights consume.... Obviously there is something all of us have overlooked, globally, believe it or not!!! ... In the meantime , my only suggestion is to get a small rechargeable battery pack to operate them independently from the main power supply. It could be removed to recharge or connected to the car. If connected and the problem persists, try and connect it so it is only connected when the ignition is turned off. I.E. when the car is parked. You will need a particular type of ignition switch to do this or a relay, or a diode and someone more clever than I on this forum to tell you how to wire it in. Sorry I can’t help more.
  2. Hi John, Thankyou for the reply. It is the wood in particular I’m seeking. I hadn’t thought of cherry wood. It appears not to be stained, unless it is stained all through. We have specialised wood importers here and I can take a sample to them now that I may know what it is. The importers are not very helpful, for fear of misdirection , or plan old fashion ignorance. It will be a while before I need the wool fabric, moths are a problem here but not large. It must be the climate. Also. The car will not be left around in ‘deep storage’ too much. I seriously plan on using it regularly. Thanks again.
  3. Hi John, thanks for the reply. I found these pictures. Not mine but gives you an idea. The wood is quite hard. I’m sure it is nothing too exotic. I have seen it on other USA built cars.
  4. Hello to all. I am in the process of restoring a BB coupe. It is finished in a mid grey fabric interior with wood trim around the doors. My 3 questions are; what is the type of material the fabric is made from. It looks like velour but not of course. Except for floor, all of the interior is covered with it. In Aussie land the seats were leather but l would prefer to fit fabric on the seats like U.S. home cars have. I have enough cars with leather already. Also, is it available? ..Lastly, no one here can identify the type of timber used for the door trims. America is blessed with such a variety of beautiful timber. Unfortunately the car was left in the outdoors in Oklahoma for about 20 years and is just a little manky on the edge of same pieces. . Not bad for 90 years. I’m also missing a 2 pieces from the top of the door panel. It would be good to match them. Any information regarding this would be much appreciated.
  5. Hi to MochetVelo, my anecdote was with a BSA motorcycle twin with a Lucas magneto. It would faintly spark at the plug when outside but it didn’t have enough to ‘bridge’ under compression. We had the magneto rewound at great expense,and when returned, it would spark at least 12.7 mm to you and I, or 1/2 inch to everybody else. The bike started first kick; .....maybe the second kick! The difference was unmistakable. The magneto rewinder man explained that is typical of old magnetos in that you cannot produce enough voltage at low speed. When someone is testing by spinning it by hand you would be surprised how fast you can spin it. Certainly a lot more than 47 rpm. It may seem o.k. ....... moving on . To overcome the problem of slow cranking speed, later in the 1920s someone invented the ‘impulse’ magneto. This was an attachment to the drive end which , simply explained, was spring loaded. When you cranked the motor over at (47 rpm!) the magneto would stop turning because of the magnetic resistance. As the motor approached TDC ,the spring in the impulse would be stretched to its limit and would ‘trip’ the magneto . This would spin it over at great speed. When working correctly, no matter how slow you turn the motor the ‘impulse magneto’ would spark. A great invention, unfortunately motor cars had moved on to distributor and coil ignition by then. Later they were used a lot on stationary motors. In the old days, my father would often remove the magneto on cars and, with a basic adapter, fit a distributor and coil. For him, rewinding a magneto was very costly. Viva Citroen.
  6. Following on from Keiser31, the Mark6 Bentley And Silver Dawn RR(circa 1950) had only on the drivers door, a lever about a foot long. This moved about a 8” fore and aft from open to close. It was so you could quickly put your arm out the window to signal.
  7. Rust over wherever! Sounds like a very original 1970s build. You could win a lot car shows , particularly if the doors and windows don’t fit right! Ahh yes the1970s......
  8. Yes, my apologies danritz for wandering. We never had a ‘blitz’ as we didn’t need the 4x4. Good , tough and cheap to buy 4x4 for work in hilly country. One strange thing I noticed with all this vehicles is how small the cabins are! When I was young I didn’t notice that. My head rubs on the roof. I’m only 5’9”-177cm. . Sad thing was they were designed for young men and also most were all recruited from half starved depression era. I noticed that at a army disposal store. Way back in the 60s in my youth there were not many clothes of that era that fitted, only some of the airforce gear. Many of them were from wealthier families. Sorry danritz, I’ll drift no more and hope someone nearby can buy your engine. Someone with a military collection should have sense and snap it up.
  9. In my youth we had 2 Ford WW2 army trucks on the farm. We call them jail bar Fords. . I’m sure the engines were not original as the army trucks had tin sleeves in the cylinders which didn’t last long. In the 1950s and 60s you could buy a new ex army engine, without the tin sleeves, for 30 pounds ($60.00 US?). One of these had the standard 21 stud head and the other had a Mercury 24 stud engine which would get along quite well. The point of this is we also had the most of a 6 cylinder army jail bar as well. Unfortunately it was vandalised. Here In Aussieland this 6 cylinder was very rare. We here only thought of Fords having side valve V8s.. Not now because of recent imports of 1950s 2 door Fords with a conventional distributor. The story goes that about 6 of these 6 cylinder Ford trucks were brought for the French to test on New Caledonia and Noumea, hence why it had a metric speedo. The ship was diverted to here because the Japanese arrived a little quicker than people anticipated. Rumour has it that if you go scuba diving ‘up north’ around the pacific islands looking at the war time wrecks you will find many more of these 6 cylinder Ford trucks.
  10. Hi Brooklyn Beer, sorry to see you are still having grief with this. Following on Jack M and PFitz comments and if the master cylinder piston is fully returning I would be looking to see if that tiny hole is blocked. Also, On a car with front discs the pressure can build up. I had this exact problem. You would drive the car for about 10 miles and the discs would lock up even without applying the brakes. The calipers pulse against the discs. There is a valve in the front of the MC piston on drum brake cars which causes this and must be removed when converting to discs. As you have drums all around this shouldn’t be a problem. Maybe Swap the pipes around as you suggested? There is a thread somewhere here recently explaining this....... Sometimes on a job I have to go back to the start of my problem. I take for granted that a new part I fit has nothing wrong with it so I keep presuming the problem is somewhere else. And , after all these years, I still fall for it!!! Maybe look into the MC a little more. I hope you find your answer soon.
  11. Hi Brooklyn Beer, I’m happy that you found success. One thing I do after I bleed the brakes initially , is I bleed them again after about a week or so of driving. No matter how much brake fluid you push through the fluid seems to retain micro bubbles. That air in the system I find is pesky and will work it’s way to the cylinders or back to the MC in time. All the best.
  12. Also made in Aussie as ckd basically, like the Escort. And reasonably popular ,most were 1,6 pushrod and 3.2litre v6. When the v6 got a little tired it was commonly ‘repaired’ with a 302 v8. I think it was actually lighter than the v6. That made it into a nice car! The belt drive 2 litre motor was a bit confusing to the average Joe Blow. You actually needed to change the timing belt sometimes! It was quite reliable. Nowadays with modern engines, changing a timing belt is considered routine. Different times I guess. They last a lot longer than they use to between services now which shows how long it has taken the engineers to perfect them. Better materials as well, but I feel rubber belts are still an unnecessary cost to a routine service.
  13. I’m hoping Brooklyn Beer has solved his problem. On a lighter note . Down under where we live we don’t have salt on the roads, thank goodness, but outback there are a lot of limestone roads which can play havoc. Fortunately not enough things to hit should your brakes fail. I’ll have to look up ‘cunifer’ . I thought it was a pine tree! . So if you don’t want to hit a conifer pine you should fit a cunifer line ? One thing that intrigued me was the fitting of copper brake lines to cars in the USA. Here it is definitely not legal. They believe it won’t hold pressure under stress. The flare nut isn’t designed for soft copper. Also it is prone to work harden with vibration and will crack. If you have salt on the roads it would be cure for corrosion. That aside, I know of cars and trailers with copper lines and never heard of any failure. Interesting.
  14. 61polara, Bang On. I discovered this on my car. It had inboard rear disc brakes which nearly set the car on fire. I changed everything discs , calipers and pads and luckily I tried to purge the brake lines with metholated spirits and compressed air and found a blockage. Alas, the brake hoses were as you state. RS. They looked good on the outside. I changed the 2 front ones as well. The left side one was restricted also. From then on I replace everything important on my cars made from rubber that is at least ten years of age. Personally , and only personally, l wouldn’t bother fitting a dual brake system on old cars. I know of no one whose brakes have failed except for ones that have not been serviced and flushed. Should be every year, but just flush them sometime per decade!!
  15. Kevin, you are spot on. I’m not up to speed fully with car marketing but with so few car makers now who make such large volumes of cars on production lines we as customers offered generally very bland greys, beige, browns and whites. At dawn and dusk are barely visible without lights. Many of these colours have complex pearls and other pigments which don’t really do much other than make for very expensive paint repair as you have to paint the whole car to match. Which makes for higher insurance premiums.Clever those car makers!! Am I being too cynical? Which is why I buy plain white cars. Never really in or out of fashion. If the car has good style it can wear most colours. Fred.