Cabnut

The number would be the key that fits the switch.

Not to put a damper on your quest but if you poll the Vintage Chev Club most all will advise you won't find one and if you did it would probably cost more then you spent on your car. I have only heard of one or two people who have them on cars during the last 30 years or so. Best of luck.

One new old stock in box GM part number 4091399 dome light lens for 1940 Chevrolet and 1941-48 Chev Series 1200. Also used on 1939-40 Oldsmobile Series 70-90, 1940 Olds 6 cyl 2 and 4 door, 1941-48 Olds all models exc convertible and 1949 Olds 98 exc conv. $70.00 US plus shipping

What is pictured is all I have. Main radio looks complete. The radio head is missing the dial face so restoration is in order. $120.00 US plus shipping.

A nice functional rim tool. Not perfect but will make removing and installing tires easier on split rims. This fits from 19 to 21" split rims. $75.00 plus shipping.

These are usually missing from the carbs. This fits the air intake and acts as a spark arrestor. It does not filter. This is an original part that is very nice and the third one I have come across in about 25 years. $160.00 US plus shipping.

Nice trim strip for 1920s Chandler. Has Chandler embossed on it as well as a neet deco pattern. Not overly corroded and should clean and straighten nicely. Measures 24" long. $50.00 US plus shipping.

Had it as a wall hanger. Anyone know what it fits? Anyway if someone wants it $80.00 US plus shipping buys it from me. Buy it before it goes up on the wall of my new shop.

I have this super solid almost straight fender but I do not know what it is for. Bought it to use to repair mine but it is just too nice to hack up so offering it for sale until I really need to cut it up. $150.00 US plus shipping. There is little rust on this and only a couple of low dents from years of storage. If it fits your restoration it would be a steal at this price.

Have a very nice radiator shell for early Hupmobile complete with emblem. The emblem is pretty nice and the shell is solid with little rust. See the pictures. $200.00 US plus shipping.

I have what I believe to be a good solid hood for a 96A Willys Whippet. Thinking 1929. Surface rust and needs some straightening. Not really dented but twisted a little. Surface rust not no rust through. $250.00 US plus shipping.

Looking for the two rear body brackets used on 1929 and 1930 coupes. the picture show the passenger side that I have and I am look for the pair for the drivers side. Mirror image to the ones shown.

Skip it. Not a desirable custom or rod and costs are high for a restoration. Now if you have lots of time and money go for it. Personally I feel it should be restored back to original but if the motor and other removed items are gone that would be difficult.

Body first as it will be the hardest. Most can do mechanical and many tin guys available for the fenders and such but the wood framing in the body.... Looking at the picture only and seeing only some of the metal damage I would quote between $30000 to $40000 to get the body together in prime ready for paint. To do that I would need every piece of the body and the chassis or a detailed drawing of the chassis and mounting locations.

What is your budget? Money will determine if this will be saved.

Well looks like more was read into my post. Bottom line someone stated 0.006" for piston clearance which I believe is wrong. And for cam ground Pistons I am sure they would be fit tighter. I am well aware technology has advanced and had pretty much stated that. These engines don't run at temps and RPMs like modern engines. I am aware the rod alignment needs to be checked by the way. That's all I have to say. Bye.

So reading my original Chevrolet repair manuals 1919 FA and FB engines with Lynite (aluminum) Pistons the spec for piston clearance is quoted at 0.003". By 1926-28 spec for aluminum piston Chev engines was 0.0025 to 0.003" ( I would suspect this is from improved piston design). Also both manuals state piston slap as caused by excessive wear to cylinder bore resulting in extra clearance. I tend to go with manufacturer information as being correct which is why I try to get the manuals for the cars I work on.

Attached is a dimensioned drawing of a wood wheel hub I am looking for. Thi is specific to 1929 Chevrolets and fits the rear wheel. Overall dimensions are the same as 1928 and 1929 Chevrolet front hubs but are machined to fit the tapered axle on the rear axle. I have one and am looking for another to complete a set of wood wheels. Thank you for any leads.

Okay so if you look at the aluminum pistons supplied these days you will notice that the lands for the rings are progressively smaller in diameter with the smallest at the top where the most expansion will be. These newer pistons are designed to allow for the extra expansion of the aluminum nearest the combustion and the tolerance at the skirt should be as stated by the piston supplier which was 2 to 3 thousands from the supplier I bought from. Also, yes aluminum pistons expand more but they also conduct and release heat more efficiently then cast iron so extra clearance at the skirt is not necessary. If the suggestion to allow 0.006" at the skirt is followed then very quickly piston slap may occur as the cylinder walls wear in.

This is a Tillotson model JR-5 and is an aftermarket replacement for Chevrolet. Two models of Carter brass bowl carbs were used in 1929. The early cars had a Carter 125S and can be recognized by a short fat accelerator pump and the later 1929s used a Carter 136S that had a long skinny pump. There are kits available for the Tillotson and if you look you can find the Carters. Be careful if you buy rebuilt Carters and I recommend you ask around the VCCA Chev Club for reputable rebuilders. Also the Carter 150S carb from 1930/31 can be used on the 1929. These may need re-jetting.

Hello, I have pictures of similar Chevrolet parts on my Facebook page "Automotive Wood Bodies" that you can view. They may help you. Also I can make the pieces you need if you provide the pieces to work from. My e-mail is automotivewoodbodies@gmail.com.

I have seen this show and visited their shop. Very hype and they are expensive. The unfortunate thing is I have heard from many that they are hacks. The scoop I hear is that they make it look great but the mechanical works is substandard. I didn't believe such would be the case until I saw one of their shows where the mechanic "fixed" a Caddy transmission by taking it out on the road and running through gears ( including reverse) while under power. I always wondered how far that client got after picking up that car. After seeing that I stopped watching.

To weigh in on the actual topic, I will give an example of pricing for the Durant model M-4 Sedan I am presently doing. To start with I checked the current pricing of a comparable Model A which was a 29 Briggs Fordor. I took that price (given blueprints exist and these kits are quantity manufactured) and added some premium for one off work, back engineering, and jig construction and priced the complete wood structure ( including door wood and new seat wood) assembled ready for tin installation in the neighborhood of $12000,00. The M-4 Durant body is not terribly complex and The 1929 Chevrolet sedan I am doing would probably fall closer to $16-17K. Pricing depends on body complexity (lots of angles and complex curves means more jig work) and how much back engineering is required to ensure the body is returned as close to original dimensions as can be determined. Now given that other makes then Ford will not have the volume, I wouldn't expect wood could be produced at lesser cost. If people are not willing to pay the cost for readily available Ford kits I don't expect them to be willing to pay premiums for other makes either. That leaves those people who really want the car and not too concerned with cost or return on investment. I expect that wood could not be produced cheaper then I can do, as presently I have zero overhead. Soon I will be expanding to a larger space and costs will increase for me but I am planning on absorbing most of that cost as this is mostly fun for me. All the best,

HI Mr. Hausmann. I love the Kissel. Great resurrection! A real unique body and I am happy to see it saved.

Restorer32 that's not my door. It is my comment and it seems you didn't read everything I said. The doors can be done but I did say that if they didn't fit the body may need work too. On all the doors I have seen, most have tin on the inside faces that the outer skin crimps too. Aside from some minor adjustment the skin position will be governed by these inside pieces. Sculpture is not what was done to create these bodies, they were designed and engineered. As such they all follow truisms of carriage work design and engineering principals.