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Everything posted by Cabnut

  1. Cabnut

    1916 overland

    If you have drawings do you need the wood bows made?
  2. If this is the early version ( which the rocker cover indicates having no vents) there should be no sealing around the spark plug holes. They are open for venting. On the other side of the engine there should have been an oil separator just ahead of the bellhousing with a pipe that goes to the carb. Air was sucked through the here from the crankcase to remove blow by gasses. If you seal the spark plug holes then the crankcase won't vent. Later in 29 Chev changed to a vented rocker cover and the small pipe from the carb went to the oil filler tube further ahead on the block.
  3. I have an old collection of parts my father had squirreled away that I am showcasing on a Facebook page titled "Antique and Vintage Car Parts". The page can be viewed without having a facebook account. Too many to list or picture here. Small sample of pictures here.
  4. If you have pictures of the style you want and dimensions of space they fit into then I am sure seats could be made.
  5. Have a look at my facebook page "Automotive Wood Bodies" as I am presently rebuilding a 1928 Durant. Your wood will be similar and I have many pictures there. Regards
  6. Not selling my books but could scan the pages. All parts are listed. So far looking for 30+ years I have not yet come across any parts for these heaters. I have not yet even seen one on a car and I live in a city where these cars were manufactured. Regards,
  7. I have a 1929 only and a 1929/30 parts book and they have illustrations of the systems. There was a first one in early 29 and a later system that differs slightly. Both fitted around the exhaust pipe as you describe.
  8. The number would be the key that fits the switch.
  9. Not to put a damper on your quest but if you poll the Vintage Chev Club most all will advise you won't find one and if you did it would probably cost more then you spent on your car. I have only heard of one or two people who have them on cars during the last 30 years or so. Best of luck.
  10. One new old stock in box GM part number 4091399 dome light lens for 1940 Chevrolet and 1941-48 Chev Series 1200. Also used on 1939-40 Oldsmobile Series 70-90, 1940 Olds 6 cyl 2 and 4 door, 1941-48 Olds all models exc convertible and 1949 Olds 98 exc conv. $70.00 US plus shipping
  11. What is pictured is all I have. Main radio looks complete. The radio head is missing the dial face so restoration is in order. $120.00 US plus shipping.
  12. A nice functional rim tool. Not perfect but will make removing and installing tires easier on split rims. This fits from 19 to 21" split rims. $75.00 plus shipping.
  13. These are usually missing from the carbs. This fits the air intake and acts as a spark arrestor. It does not filter. This is an original part that is very nice and the third one I have come across in about 25 years. $160.00 US plus shipping.
  14. Nice trim strip for 1920s Chandler. Has Chandler embossed on it as well as a neet deco pattern. Not overly corroded and should clean and straighten nicely. Measures 24" long. $50.00 US plus shipping.
  15. Had it as a wall hanger. Anyone know what it fits? Anyway if someone wants it $80.00 US plus shipping buys it from me. Buy it before it goes up on the wall of my new shop.
  16. I have this super solid almost straight fender but I do not know what it is for. Bought it to use to repair mine but it is just too nice to hack up so offering it for sale until I really need to cut it up. $150.00 US plus shipping. There is little rust on this and only a couple of low dents from years of storage. If it fits your restoration it would be a steal at this price.
  17. Have a very nice radiator shell for early Hupmobile complete with emblem. The emblem is pretty nice and the shell is solid with little rust. See the pictures. $200.00 US plus shipping.
  18. I have what I believe to be a good solid hood for a 96A Willys Whippet. Thinking 1929. Surface rust and needs some straightening. Not really dented but twisted a little. Surface rust not no rust through. $250.00 US plus shipping.
  19. Looking for the two rear body brackets used on 1929 and 1930 coupes. the picture show the passenger side that I have and I am look for the pair for the drivers side. Mirror image to the ones shown.
  20. Skip it. Not a desirable custom or rod and costs are high for a restoration. Now if you have lots of time and money go for it. Personally I feel it should be restored back to original but if the motor and other removed items are gone that would be difficult.
  21. Body first as it will be the hardest. Most can do mechanical and many tin guys available for the fenders and such but the wood framing in the body.... Looking at the picture only and seeing only some of the metal damage I would quote between $30000 to $40000 to get the body together in prime ready for paint. To do that I would need every piece of the body and the chassis or a detailed drawing of the chassis and mounting locations.
  22. What is your budget? Money will determine if this will be saved.
  23. Well looks like more was read into my post. Bottom line someone stated 0.006" for piston clearance which I believe is wrong. And for cam ground Pistons I am sure they would be fit tighter. I am well aware technology has advanced and had pretty much stated that. These engines don't run at temps and RPMs like modern engines. I am aware the rod alignment needs to be checked by the way. That's all I have to say. Bye.
  24. So reading my original Chevrolet repair manuals 1919 FA and FB engines with Lynite (aluminum) Pistons the spec for piston clearance is quoted at 0.003". By 1926-28 spec for aluminum piston Chev engines was 0.0025 to 0.003" ( I would suspect this is from improved piston design). Also both manuals state piston slap as caused by excessive wear to cylinder bore resulting in extra clearance. I tend to go with manufacturer information as being correct which is why I try to get the manuals for the cars I work on.
  25. Attached is a dimensioned drawing of a wood wheel hub I am looking for. Thi is specific to 1929 Chevrolets and fits the rear wheel. Overall dimensions are the same as 1928 and 1929 Chevrolet front hubs but are machined to fit the tapered axle on the rear axle. I have one and am looking for another to complete a set of wood wheels. Thank you for any leads.