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moran75

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Posts posted by moran75

  1. 13 hours ago, 64RivieraLife said:

    Beautiful color, whats that color called

    Many thanks…it’s a special order paint option…invoice states ‘arleutian grey’ which was a Cadillac colour I’m told…to be honest it’s had patches resprayed over years so don’t know how much is actually technically original paint…but unless sun is beating down you’d never know 😀

  2. On 8/30/2021 at 11:41 PM, 1965rivgs said:

    Hi Gents,

      Correct operation as per the original two relay system is the key must be in the "on" position for the clamshells to close...should have nothing to do with the engine running ...unless there is a compromise in the system, like a lazy relay, which requires the higher voltage in the system while the engine is running to overcome the compromise.

      The auxiliary relay is key switched and interrupts the closing system with the key off so that if the closing limit switch is not opening the closing circuit when the clamshells are completely closed the auxiliary relay does so when the key is turned off. Interrupting the closing circuit takes power off the motor when the clamshells are completely closed so it does not attempt to operate in a "stall" position and burn out.

    Tom

    Funny what you find out on the group 😀. Don’t know where I got the impression that the clams only close with engine running - I’m rarely out after dark and I tend to remember to close before getting out of car…tested the other day and they do indeed close with engine off, key ‘on’ as you clarified….so belated thanks for making me aware! 

    Cheers

    Kev 

  3. 3 minutes ago, jframe said:

    Well, that makes mine bass ackwards, I suppose, lol.

    that's assuming I'm right about 'correct' operation - however we should look on the bright side - at least our clamshell motors havn't burnt out 😀

    • Like 1
  4. Hi Mark

    On mine - and i believe it is as per factory spec - they only close when engine is running.

    So if I switch off engine first and then turn off lights, clams will only close when i run the engine again.

     

    Cheers

     

    Kev

    • Like 2
  5. On 8/15/2021 at 12:57 PM, RIVNIK said:

    Turbi is right!   One of the best things I ever did was replace my clock w an oil pressure gauge. I quick disconnect my battery when not in use or when working on the car, so the clock was correct only twice a day, plus I always wear a wristwatch, so it wasn't missed. Its now in a box in the shed. After a little shopping I was able to find a gauge w a chrome ring & a font that matched the other instruments. Easy to install, fit perfectly in the clock-hole, hooked up the clock power to the gauge light, & no more oil pressure worries. & instead of hanging under the dash or cutting a hole in the console, it's right there in front of me for peace of mind. Idiot lights suck!

    Can you let me know what brand/model gauge you used?

    thanks

    kev

  6. I’m certainly no expert either but as a keen amateur I’d start by checking the vacuum modulator and it’s connecting hose on passenger side of trans..if not working or vacuum is being lost at hose then might explain at least some of your symptoms ….the vacuum from engine is used to help change gear via modulator…and it’s as cheap place to start 😀

     

    cheers

    kev

  7. On 5/5/2021 at 9:01 PM, David Forsberg said:

    My 66. Bought it last week and drove it 1100 kms home.

    50000 mi. Strato de luxe, turqoise mist.

     

    I love it.

    North of Sweden.

    20210501_201846.jpg

    Wow...that’s a long drive and a lively car...out of interest any problems on the drive , other than fuel consumption? 😀

  8. I’m on a roll....One other thing...ask him for a pic of data plate..not only will.this tell you how car looked/what options it had when left factory (if originality is of special interest to you) but perhaps more importantly if his attitude to providing this is negative, such as he doesn’t know where it is, it’s too much like hard work for him to do it or if he takes it as some kind of attack on his credibility - that somehow your checking his claims- then it would def turn me off...that sort request for info is routine in my opinion...

    if he does send it then google how to decode it...all interesting stuff anyway

  9. 2 hours ago, Bruschi 54 said:

    Thanks for those pointers and questions to ask..... Also looking at the photos. Is that gear lever centre console area correct ?

     

    I’m not intimately knowledgeable of interior of a 63 but gear stick (as we call it in UK) def looks all wrong ..seems too long/high and the plastic shroud is def wrong...why is it there and what’s it hiding..def want to look under there.. I’d even go as far to ask question what type gear box is it attached to...is it original/correct replacement or some kind of Frankenstein! 

    I know what it’s like to search endlessly for THE car, especially in the UK ..but to me the car is already asking too many questions...especially at the price ...seems like he’s dropped price considerably cause no one wants it and he really wants to get rid of it...

     

    id def want to get to bottom of the Californian black plate thing...the car currently has a black plate but it’s a UK plate so that is no evidence...for that claim I’d want to see proof (black plate cars from Californian are potentially big bonus because of the climate) plus receipts for all the work that’s been carried out...people can claim anything but some claims that supposedly add value need to be backed up in my opinion...

  10. 13 minutes ago, Bruschi 54 said:

    https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1310872

     

    Cheers Kev. I hope this link works

    Interestingly I had searched and found that listing earlier today...but description immediately differs as the listing I found claims engine had been rebuilt (yours doesn’t ) ...doesn’t fill me with confidence to start with. I’ve attached a screen grab.

     

    but if he’s on level he’ll happily clarify and give its history..eg how long has it been in UK, evidence of Californian life etc...

     

    9E26540F-2877-480A-A04B-D9BB7CE892C0.png

  11. 2 hours ago, Bruschi 54 said:

    Folks, if I peruse the Riviera over the bank holiday. How difficult is it to get those parts? Did anyone resolve an alternative cable? Is reconditioning the wiper motor the only alternative?

    I’d start with CARS - Old Buick Parts. They have an online catalogue. 
     

    is it for sale on line? Post a link so we can take a look - won’t tell a complete story but could get an idea of plot...

     

    like you I’m based in UK so I agree we are not blessed with 1st Gen Rivs. So personally I wouldn’t immediately discount car ...positives MAY outweigh negatives after due diligence.

     

    In my case I ended up liking stateside and for me worked out very well. Doesn’t for everyone. That’s a subject for another day..

     

    look for rust on trunk floor ..it’s gens can suffer there. Trim around rear screen traps water which rusts through into trunk.

     

    personally as a starting point I put a lit of weight on how much history the seller knows about the car and his enthusiam/knowledge of the marque. And his general attitude. Shows if he cares about the car and therefore how likely he will have been to maintain it properly. He should at least know if it’s numbers matching. I’m funny like that. 

     

    I could waffle on all night. Give me a call if you like. DM’d you yesterday. Where is car? If in South East I could take an objective look for you...I’m very nosey when it comes to Rivs.

     

    kev

  12. 17 hours ago, Bruschi 54 said:

    Hi all, thanks for the comments. The gent selling the car as already said " Don't try to knock me down on the price. Its cheap as it is" Thats  £15,500 or $21,607 which at the UK price is cheap and Rivi's are not abundant in the UK. 

    From the car collection the gent has cash flow does not appear to be an issue so I'm a little concerned as its the top of my budget with little cash to try to put things right.... although I note parts for both issues are also scarce in the US.

    Edd China ??? No thanks LMAO.....

    Ill have Ant Anstead.....

     

    Thanks Again

    Hi

    I live in the UK (London) and own a '65 - i'll DM you me my number for a chat. Note I'm not as tall as Ed China but i can shine a light on owning a Riv in the UK.

    Kev

    • Like 1
  13. By way of an update.....

     

    Checked all belts and yes, you've guessed it, they were not tight enough...

     

    So with help of a pry bar and a Krikit got them sorted as per manual...

     

    Had a 150 round trip today mainly on the motorway with a few breaks in-between and again car seemingly ran really well with no overheating/mishaps BUT the occasional 'screech' was still there, beginning after my first stop (when starting up again) approx 40 miles in  - and thereafter when starting up after a break...i also heard it once when joining the motorway on the way home but it quickly subsided....

     

    Also before setting off the fan seemed not to be moving freely as it should - not that it should free wheel of course , but  I wasn't getting a full spin...

     

    So as i have a new fan clutch I think i'll put it on - probably good practice anyway as the one that's there is of unknown vintage - but will stop there (leave waterpump) and see if it solves the 'issue' before it progresses...

     

    Thanks all for your help

     

    Kev

  14. Thanks all....

     

    I’ll check belt tension next time I’m with the car, I’ll look to get one of this Krikit gadgets...as up to now I’ve used the famous finger method.BTW belts are relatively new.

     

    As per my original post I was initially focusing on the fan clutch but maybe that’s a red herring ...

     

    I’ll keep you posted.

     

    all the best

     

    kevin 

  15. Hi All

     

    Every thing is stock on car including idiot light, fan shroud, fan. Nothing added/altered.

     

    I stress car is NOT overheating. Runs great. Idles great. No leaks from rad/water pump etc. No noises that make me concerned.

     

    EXCEPT towards end of a 30 mile trip the other day i noticed a short but noticeable screech when parking, but only when i stepped on gas. Coming from fan clutch 'area'.

     

    I must admit I've never paid any attn to my fan clutch before.

     

    There is no obvious free play and it doesn't free wheel - but its obviously old and dirty and the the coil looks rusty.

     

    Have driven it round town sincw, not massive distance, and no screeching.

     

    Anyway Its obviously worth replacing the clutch. I have the correct one from CARS.

     

    But i have read that its a very good idea to also change the water pump at the same time - I think the theory is because a new clutch would put new strain on old pump and vice versa.

     

    Looking for some opinions as to whether also changing the water pump is REALLY necessary in my situation? I don't want to wrestle with a seized water pump bolts etc and all the faff that goes with it unless i really need to.

     

    I'd much rather just change the fan clutch and if the screech reappears then go back in for the more major surgery of a water pump.

     

    Would anyone agree/disagree?

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    Kev

  16. On 4/6/2021 at 10:26 PM, msdminc said:

    I believe that is the deck alignment tang that contacts the rubber bumper, as stated above.  It is used to help with alignment of the deck in the decklid opening, along with the striker in the latch.  You can move the bumper in and out of the hole, as well as the tang can be adjusted up and down to properly fit the deck.

     

    When these cars were built there was a body drop hoist used to put the car onto the frame at the beginning of the final line.  Below are a couple pictures that I found that show what I mean.  The body was held in the hoist by the rockers.  When it was placed and aligned on the frame, by the assembly operators in the pit on the body mounts/cushions, the frame is like a scissor and opens up and returns to get the next body.  Right after the drop the body bolts are put in by assembly operators.

     

    Rock On

     

    gord

    GM Chassis Body Drop Marriage 2.jpg

    GM Chassis Body Drop Marriage 3.jpg

    aha...makes sense..moral is to always look up as well as down

     

    just thinking out loud - is it just me or is the trunk a little bit spartan on a 65? Trunk light for example just a bit cheap looking? Just as well the outside looks so good !

  17. Thanks chaps...only reason I’m asking is that the carpet seems to be caught on something under there and is bunching up a tad ...I think I’ll leave trim/seat as they are and just see if I can push carpet back a little with my fingers

    all the best

    kev

  18. Hi all

    Re trim at bottom of electric bucket seat - I’ve attached an illustration re piece I’m referring to..

     

    It looks like the only way to remove it is after the seat has been removed and physically turned upside down? Can anyone confirm or is there a way to get them it off a tad more easily.:.

    all the best

    kev

    2EC88544-0632-4C1C-8CD9-E7EF2F6EBE42.jpeg

  19. Hi all

     

    Re. specifically the two straight strips either side of rear wheel well - one to bumper and other to door.

     

    I understand they are fastened by what some people refer to as ‘bath tub’ style fasteners/clips.

     

    Ive read a ref to the mouldings SLIDING off these ‘bath tubs’ - rather than being forced off by sliding one of those trim removing tools underneath and forcing them off OUTWARDS, if you see what I mean.

     

    Just to double check is the sliding method of removal/Installation correct ? After removing curved wheel well trim first of course.....

     

    thanks in advance 

    Kev

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